Patagonian cruise, circum-Andean drive and a Pacific island hop back

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Check-in was a bit odd. ....

Will say that our bags, despite being J and tagged priority, came out absolutely dead last... like we were the only ones in the airport, the baggage conveyor was no longer in operation, last.

On the plus side, it was no longer raining when we exited the airport :) Thankfully our accommodation transfer waited for us.
 
We were booked at the Iorana Hotel, located just off to the side of the airport runway. At only 1 flight a day at this time of year, we thought that was pretty safe noise-wise!

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There had been a couple of horrible Trip Advisor reviews since we booked, so we were a bit apprehensive, but it was quite OK. Standard Australian 'motel' standard although, like everything on the island, expensive! My room had a walk out 150 degree view of the Pacific Ocean .. unbeatable!

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Just a basic motel room, but with air con, thankfully!

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We went for an orientation walk down town. Rapa Nui, the only town on the island is very laid back. There were some two story buildings there, but they didn't stand out!

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No natural harbour - just a small breakwater and a channel in to the moorings. Cruise boat pax get 'ferried' into here. Catholic church incorporates both traditional and local (Rapa Nui) symbols.

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Dinner that evening was a pretty easy choice - a highly recommended seafood place was a short walk way. On approach it didn't look that promising (building on the far left), but it was a fantastic location.

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I'll highlight the menu, as it was pretty typical of what we found all over Rapa Nui. Prices in Chilean Pesos; $5,000 is A$10.

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I wanted the slipper lobster, but they had run out. So I had the best (raw) octopus salad ever as a starter and then ceviche (of course!). Fantastic.

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Added bonus was the sunset - 100% over Pacific ocean, with the sea breaking at our feet.

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...., but it was quite OK.....

This seems to be the norm, when discussing accommodation. Theres one hideously, sell my husband's kidney, expensive hotel and the rest are "quite ok". Town centre reminds me of Port Vila about 20yrs ago, without the humidity.

Did you go to the post office and get the stamp in your passport?
 
Good 'ol xplora.

I get 5% off now , but otoh I'm on full time dialysis…….
 
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Did you go to the post office and get the stamp in your passport?

No, missed that. We went out on two, full day tours with Easter Island Travel, (who were very good), so missed the PO.

Researching tours, we found that they fell into two price brackets - abt US$100-120/head for a day and +US$200/head. We couldn't see what you could get (or lack) for that difference, so chose a tour company in the lower range; two private day tours, and it was a good choice.

Our first included by our choice seeing the sunrise at Tongariki, about 40 mins drive to the NE along the coast. The road is unsealed, but pretty good.

A real 'Kodak moment' - or moments, with the light changing

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I wonder how many reading this thought, as I did when I arrived on Easter Island, that westerners found the island uninhabited, with the indigenous population (the Rapa Nui) assumed to have succumbed to a combination of inter tribal warfare and collapse of their society due to depletion of natural resources such as trees, and maybe water, after an earthquake etc?

I was amazed to learn, from our tour guide, a proud Rapa Nui man, that this was not so!

The island formed about 1 million years ago. like Hawaii, it is a volcanic island formed on an oceanic continental plate as it moved over a mantle 'hot spot'. As the oceanic plate 'conveyor belt' moves, it takes the island with it, away from the hot spot, and the volcanos on the island go quiet, and a new island forms behind. The leading island(s) erode and sink back into the sea.

People came to the island about 700AD, very likely from Polynesian islands to the west. They formed into a number of clans, each with their own territory across the island. There were the aristocracy within each clan, and the 'rest' - mainly slave workers.

The Easter Island statues, or moai were carved to deify the leader of a clan when they died; multiple statues were placed on the same platform (ahu) over time. The source was a single quarry, which we visited last on the tour.

The first western visitor was a Dutchman, in 1722 - Easter Sunday, hence the name. the Spanish also visited, as did Cook briefly in 1774. Almost co-incidental with the westerner's arrival was the start of collapse of the Rapa Nui society, with the slave class gradually rising up against the aristocracy. By 1838 various civil wars and battles resulted in all the statues being toppled, mostly by man, although we saw evidence that some had probably been toppled by earthquake and some by tsunami.

Almost all the statues face inland - to face and protect the people and were carved from about 1,000 - 1680. Any statue upright today has been restored by archaeologists.


Driving back from the sunrise site, we passed some small volcanic cones, and in the RH pic, one of the very many platforms with unrestored statues sprawled about.

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We went to the Vinapu site, just off the end of the runway. Unrestored, but of note because of the construction of the platform - anyone who has visited Inca sites will recognise the stonework! I think this is the only such example on the island ... tantalising as to the Sth American influence on the peoples ...

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A few heads lying in the ground. Not the sedimentary rock texture - I thought the states were carved out of basalt, but no - volcanic tuff rock, quite soft to carve (and erode):

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Also lying about were some 'topknots' - hairpieces of the chiefs, which had become separated.

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The original statues would have looked something like this (with white coral for eyes).

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That visitor with his rock melt gun really got around.
Even giving my imagination free rein, I cannot conceptualise how it was done….
 
You mean carving? The rock from which the statues were carved is actually pretty soft - basalt tools would be fine for carving the statues. Moving them, was another matter. We were told of the upright 'walk overland' method, which sounds unlikely, until you realise that they weren't in much of a hurry.

Next site we visited was Puna Poi, the quarry for the red/brown hats and top-notches. Its not far from the town, Hanga Roa (NOT Rapa Nui, as I said earlier), with some nice views:

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Next stop, Ahu a Kivi which were some nice restored moai, but uniquely, they faced towards the sea. The location is a fair way inland, so the interpretation is that the moai faced where the people lived, rather than the sea.


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No , the platform stone work.
IMnsHO, the Inca's did not , could not , build their fine detail stonework , hence the allegory to the giant with his heat gun or whatever other out of this world process he used.
Anyway sorry to mess up your wonderful tr.. carry on .. :-)
 
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I've seen the Inca work and like everyone, amazed. I think the key things in figuring out how it was done is 1) lots of slaves and 2) time.

Worked for the Egyptians, the Romans and most other civilisations with 'unbelievable' monumental works.
 
The next site was Tahai, next to the archaeological museum (not visited) and immediately to the north of town.

More restored Moai - the bight 'necklaces' is rather crude cementing back of the head when it broke off when toppled.There are three restored platforms here, done between 1968 and 1970 by American archaeologist William Mulloy.

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Ahu Ko Te Riku, the only restored moai with restored eyes, and a top-knot. Dislodged coral eyes were found at one other site and it was decided to put eyes back in this ont to show how the statues 'come alive' with them, rather than the stern, enigmatic appearances without.

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Like most platforms, there was a village at tis location. Houses were typically 'boat shaped' stone bases, with branches placed into holes carved into the stones, and bent over and joined. Everywhere you go there are views of the vast Pacific ocean :cool: .

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The island cemetery was nearby.

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Surfing is big here, in spite of the (almost) complete absence of sandy beaches - jagged basalt is the norm!! We walked around the waterfront of Hanga Roa and were very pleased to see masses of Green Turtles close to the shore.

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next up was Rano kau - the volcanic crater immediately sough of the town and airport.

On the way up, great views of the town and the far NE of the island.

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The crater is spectacular - and is the water supply for much of the island.


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The drive continues up the hill to Orongo village - the centre of the Birdman Cult. The views to some adjacent islands (important in the Cult) and the Pacific were astonishing. I hope these lower-res pics reproduce the colour of the water adequately - the deepest sapphire blue I think I have ever seen in water. (Edit - yes, almost .. the panorama shows it, and the bottom of the other pics shows something like the colour.)

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