Plating up again – at Dirk Hartog Island

JohnM

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Jun 7, 2006
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Qantas
LT Gold
Tomorrow it’s on the road again heading north for another expedition to Dirk Hartog Island.

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I went last year, but the original plan for just PJM and me to go was upended by a string of circumstances. Rather than cancel, my brother and I went, with another expedition of six people this year set up then as foreshadowed here: (Plating up – at Dirk Hartog Island).

Tomorrow, we’ll travel as far as Geraldton. Then on Friday, to Denham (Shark Bay) via Kalbarri NP.

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We’ve booked three nights in Denham, the plan being to do the 4WD drive into Francois Peron NP on Saturday, then do a scenic flight (#6) on Sunday morning, before the boys set out in the three fourbys for the Shelter Bay campground near Steep Point, in order to be ready for the early Monday morning barge transfer with vehicles to DHI.

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The girls (am I allowed to say that…🙄) will stay Sunday night in Denham (left with – hopefully adequate - bail money 😜) and will transfer to DHI on the day-tripper boat on Monday morning.

The Shelter Bay campground is basic. It has good drop toilets but no showers, so we figured reluctant campers were better left for the boat transfer.

On the way out, after our five nights at the DHI Eco Lodge, the girls will get the opportunity to do the barge transfer, see Steep Point (the westernmost point of the Australian mainland) and experience the 4WD ride through the sand dunes without them having to camp overnight. Happy partners; happy life 👍😁.

The return journey will take us from DHI to overnight at Dongara, about 0.75h S of Geraldton, before the cruisy run home on Sunday week.

Should be cool. But whether we can repeat the amazing whale experience of last year remains to be seen…
 
Righto, home again after a sensational trip.

A routine drive to Geraldton on the first day. Next day we awoke to an extensive cold front coming in. It wasn’t stormy, just cloudy and drizzly for a good part of the day.

The blue line is this year’s route, with the red being essentially last year’s. A key difference is that this year we drove to Cape Peron from Denham on the 4WD-only track. Airing-down of tyres is mandatory and conveniently there are two service station-type compressed air facilities on entering Francois Peron NP – so no excuses for non-compliance.

Out to Steep Point and DHI is 4WD-only from west of where it says ‘Tamala’ and airing-down is essential. Carrying a compressor is necessary.

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The pink lake at Hutt Lagoon near Gregory on the coast west of Northampton and south of Kalbarri was probably the pinkest I’ve seen it, albeit dulled by the cloudy and misty conditions. BASF has a facility there processing the algae for beta-carotene.

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On to Kalbarri NP and it was still drizzling. Our friends had not previously seen the Skywalks or Nature’s Window, so they were the key stops.

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Pushing on to Shell Beach near Hamelin Pool for the clowns to get out to play. Then on to Denham and dinner that night at The Old Pearler, constructed from blocks cut from the old, solidified shells quarry near Shell Beach. Followed the next day by a visit to Monkey Mia, noted for its dolphins that get fed each morning.

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Then we headed into Francois Peron NP. After airing-down, we bee-lined to the Cape. We were barely 5 minutes into the park when an outgoing vehicle slid as they passed our friends running at #2 in our group, clipping the rear corner of their LandCruiser. Some panel damage and the taillight unit broken.

The other vehicle was a rental Mitsubishi ASX driven by a young European couple. It also sustained some front right panel damage. So, not only were they likely to be breaching most rental car restrictions on driving off-road, but they were also on a designated high-clearance 4WD-only track.

Initially, I thought an ASX may be AWD, but on checking it’s a FWD. Even if it had been the AWD larger Outlander, those vehicles are certainly not fourbies, so they never should have been on the track

They could not have gotten very far and must have turned back. Naïve young foreigners. They also did not know what their insurance coverage was. As my brother said: “I reckon they will be in a world of pain when they front back up to Europcar…”

After exchanging details, on we pressed to Cape Peron. It was hellishly bouncy near the end. Photos will appear on the outward journey as we then knew what to expect and where to expect it.

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Approaching cautiously, I was soon able to ascertain to my immense relief that the natives were friendly.

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Around the E corner to Skipjack Point.

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Manta ray below.

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