Plating up again – at Dirk Hartog Island

[JohnM]

Tomorrow it’s on the road again heading north for another expedition to Dirk Hartog Island.



I went last year, but the original plan for just PJM and me to go was upended by a string of circumstances. Rather than cancel, my brother and I went, with another expedition of six people this year set up then as foreshadowed here: (Plating up – at Dirk Hartog Island).

Tomorrow, we’ll travel as far as Geraldton. Then on Friday, to Denham (Shark Bay) via Kalbarri NP.





We’ve booked three nights in Denham, the plan being to do the 4WD drive into Francois Peron NP on Saturday, then do a scenic flight (#6) on Sunday morning, before the boys set out in the three fourbys for the Shelter Bay campground near Steep Point, in order to be ready for the early Monday morning barge transfer with vehicles to DHI.







The girls (am I allowed to say that…) will stay Sunday night in Denham (left with – hopefully adequate - bail money ) and will transfer to DHI on the day-tripper boat on Monday morning.

The Shelter Bay campground is basic. It has good drop toilets but no showers, so we figured reluctant campers were better left for the boat transfer.

On the way out, after our five nights at the DHI Eco Lodge, the girls will get the opportunity to do the barge transfer, see Steep Point (the westernmost point of the Australian mainland) and experience the 4WD ride through the sand dunes without them having to camp overnight. Happy partners; happy life .

The return journey will take us from DHI to overnight at Dongara, about 0.75h S of Geraldton, before the cruisy run home on Sunday week.

Should be cool. But whether we can repeat the amazing whale experience of last year remains to be seen…

 

[JohnM]

Righto, home again after a sensational trip.

A routine drive to Geraldton on the first day. Next day we awoke to an extensive cold front coming in. It wasn’t stormy, just cloudy and drizzly for a good part of the day.

The blue line is this year’s route, with the red being essentially last year’s. A key difference is that this year we drove to Cape Peron from Denham on the 4WD-only track. Airing-down of tyres is mandatory and conveniently there are two service station-type compressed air facilities on entering Francois Peron NP – so no excuses for non-compliance.

Out to Steep Point and DHI is 4WD-only from west of where it says ‘Tamala’ and airing-down is essential. Carrying a compressor is necessary.



The pink lake at Hutt Lagoon near Gregory on the coast west of Northampton and south of Kalbarri was probably the pinkest I’ve seen it, albeit dulled by the cloudy and misty conditions. BASF has a facility there processing the algae for beta-carotene.



On to Kalbarri NP and it was still drizzling. Our friends had not previously seen the Skywalks or Nature’s Window, so they were the key stops.



Pushing on to Shell Beach near Hamelin Pool for the clowns to get out to play. Then on to Denham and dinner that night at The Old Pearler, constructed from blocks cut from the old, solidified shells quarry near Shell Beach. Followed the next day by a visit to Monkey Mia, noted for its dolphins that get fed each morning.

 

[JohnM]

Then we headed into Francois Peron NP. After airing-down, we bee-lined to the Cape. We were barely 5 minutes into the park when an outgoing vehicle slid as they passed our friends running at #2 in our group, clipping the rear corner of their LandCruiser. Some panel damage and the taillight unit broken.

The other vehicle was a rental Mitsubishi ASX driven by a young European couple. It also sustained some front right panel damage. So, not only were they likely to be breaching most rental car restrictions on driving off-road, but they were also on a designated high-clearance 4WD-only track.

Initially, I thought an ASX may be AWD, but on checking it’s a FWD. Even if it had been the AWD larger Outlander, those vehicles are certainly not fourbies, so they never should have been on the track

They could not have gotten very far and must have turned back. Naïve young foreigners. They also did not know what their insurance coverage was. As my brother said: “I reckon they will be in a world of pain when they front back up to Europcar…”

After exchanging details, on we pressed to Cape Peron. It was hellishly bouncy near the end. Photos will appear on the outward journey as we then knew what to expect and where to expect it.



Approaching cautiously, I was soon able to ascertain to my immense relief that the natives were friendly.



Around the E corner to Skipjack Point.



Manta ray below.

 

[JohnM]

Time to head back to Denham. Just the sort of track you’d take a 2WD rental car on… - not.



Let’s see if I can hold steady enough to get some action shots while ploughing through.



There was not a great risk of getting bogged on the main track in the fine red sand; it was just very bouncy. Too little speed and you might bog or just get nowhere; too much and you are handling a bucking scrub bull. It’s essential to have gear in the car well tied down, and the fridge either full to the brim or empty - or gaps packed with something soft.

It’s a different matter when approaching the soft, coarser sand of entries to beaches. We walked over the last line of dunes to the beach at Herald Bight. It was getting late in the day, so discretion was in order.



After airing-up, a stop at the old Peron Station homestead just outside the mandatory 4WD/low tyre pressures area. Known for its artesian hot tub.



A great, somewhat exhausting, day out, rejuvenated with a couple of icy pints and a meal at the Shark Bay pub.

 

[JohnM]

Next morning, a look at Little Lagoon, just out of Denham on the way to Shark Bay Airport (MJK) for our scenic flight.



A glorious day for flying. Our party of six was split between two Cessna 172s.



Little Lagoon and Denham from above as we swing to head N along the W side of Cape Peron, to retrace by air our previous day’s drive, overflying the vast seagrass beds that make the shallow Shark Bay so biologically important. Then coming up for some orbits over Big Lagoon on the Peron Peninsula.



Big Lagoon from space.

 

[JohnM]

The sand dunes on Dirk Hartog Island glistening in the distance.



And Cape Peron. Easier access than yesterday…



Then heading S along the E side of the Peron Peninsula towards Monkey Mia.



Flying at around 1500ft over land and close to shore, rising to 2000-2500ft as we ventured further out across the bays. The second bird was running 5-10min behind us.

Simply stunning views as we swung S and then E out over Faure Island, which like DHI was once a pastoral lease but is now a nature reserve (Faure Island - Wikipedia). The ‘Faure Sill’, readily visible on the Google satellite image, affects the water flow, facilitating the hypersalinity of Hamelin Pool at the S end of Shark Bay and leading to the growth and accumulation of the Fragum coughle shells at Shell Beach https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...cQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1wcWUwTF_6I02-J2Oht4n3; Shell Beach - Shark Bay).

 

[JohnM]

Coming over Monkey Mia.



This formation is called ‘The brain’ – for obvious reasons.

 

[JohnM]

Approaching the long-established (since 1962) salt production facility at Useless Loop (Useless Loop, Western Australia - Wikipedia). Useless Loop is a closed company-owned mining town.

 

[JohnM]

Heading towards the upper (S) reaches of the salt evaporator system (that we will later cross on land going to Steep Point and on to DHI).



And the dunes that we need to skirt getting out there.



Note in the second of these two pics the changing path of the track as the dune has advanced northwards. The loop mid-lower right is one-way tracks getting over a steep point. The straight section on the right is up and over a blind crest on a steep downhill section on the dune heading into Steep Point; the circle around to the right brings you more gently up back to the main track on the way out.

It then leads into a mongrel section skirting around the dune. It’s easier and more fun heading out than the real holding onto your hat situation heading back in, owing to the westwards downhill slope. Balancing momentum and the bucking bronco on the uphill coming out is the trick. It’s good that the women were with us on the gnarlier direction…

All good fun, but impossible to take photos while performing at the rodeo.

The following Google satellite image shows a little more detail.

All the grunt is over once out to where the salt mining causeway protrudes into the bay and it’s only a few more clicks to the air up/down station and cruising from there.



Back to the flight. DHI and Steep Point coming into view.



Swinging out towards the Zuytdorp Cliffs. Looking N, then looking S.



Focussing on looking N (direction of travel). Again, DHI in the background.



Surf Point at the S end of DHI.

 

[JohnM]

The vehicle-transporting barge landing point is the beach at the point.



DHI.



And heading back to MJK, tracking N of Little Lagoon and Denham.



That was a 1.5h flight. Sensational! Highly recommended if ever in that area.

On the way back into Denham, we checked out the channel connecting Little Lagoon and the ocean. Another lovely spot.

Then it was into Denham and fuelling up, including 60L of extra diesel on my roof, for the boys to head out to the (mis-named on this occasion) Shelter Bay near Steep Point to camp for the night in preparation for the barge transfer to DHI the next morning, while the girls were left to play up in Denham.

 

[JohnM]

Then it was into Denham and fuelling up, including 60L of extra diesel on my roof, for the boys to head out to the (mis-named on this occasion) Shelter Bay near Steep Point to camp for the night in preparation for the barge transfer to DHI the next morning, while the girls were left to play up in Denham.

It’s about a 3.5h drive Denham-Shelter Bay campground near Steep Point.



Despite the benign appearance, there was a fresh SE wind blowing at Shelter Bay, where the sand is very fine and gets whipped up easily. Nevertheless, a pleasant evening.



Sunset; sunrise x3.



Pack up and join the line for the transfer to DHI. It was a busy morning of coming and going. It takes about 20 minutes for the round trip. We were in no hurry, as check in at the Lodge was early afternoon and the girls, pending release from the Denham lockup, were on the DHI boat transfer leaving Denham at 1330, for a crossing that takes 45 minutes.



I go third.

 

[JohnM]

Just chillin’ at the Lodge while waiting.

And here comes trouble – closing fast...



I covered the Lodge and much of DHI in the previous TR (Plating up – at Dirk Hartog Island), so this TR will only reprise a few things and add photos of new experiences.

Dawn the next day and the resident horse and sheep like to come and graze on the lawn each day.



Next day was the marine safari, which is included as part of the package staying at the Lodge.

Numerous humpbacks waving a welcome to Shark Bay.

 

[JohnM]

And, fleetingly, dugongs!



Zooming in on the last two pics and snipping them:



That was fun!



Then a gin tasting at the Inscription Bar.

 

[JohnM]

Next day another strong and extensive cold front swept across SW WA.

We took a drive to Surf Point for a bit of beachcombing and checking out the hilarious yellow crabs that scuttle about on the beach and the nervous sharks in the bay, although the choppy water made them difficult to see clearly.

Surf Point is opposite Steep Point.



The winter was excellent for rainfall in the region. Native hibiscus blooming prolifically. They use it is a botanical in one of their island-botanical themed gins. It imparts a light pink colour and a touch of sweetness.

 

[JohnM]

Next day and the front has passed through leaving in its wake good swells. An outing to the blowholes is in order.

Before leaving, with the tide out, a wade out to Meade Island near the Lodge.




Seagull nest and egg. Not marooned – just waving.



WHOOSH! They’re cranking!

 

[JohnM]

Back to Surf Point and the bay where the sharks congregate is calmer than yesterday.



After a chill-out, that evening the ‘Australia’s Last Sunset’ excursion to Herald Heights that is included in the Lodge stay package. A stop at the top of the dunes overlooking Tetradon Loop.

 

[JohnM]

Next, and the final day on DHI, the full-day mission to Cape Inscription and return.

Crossing the dunes at Tetradon Loop, and the lake near Withnell Point that can be incredibly pink at certain times of the year. The heavy winter rains this year will delay the onset of the pink colour.



Dampier’s Landing on the NE corner of DHI about 6km E of the Cape Inscription point where Dirk Hartog landed in October 1616, to become the first European to land on the W coast of Australia. William Dampier came ashore here on 17 August 1699.

The plaques were unveiled on 17 August 1999, the large one to mark the tricentennial of the landing; the small one to dedicate the book by legendary WA maritime historical author the late Hugh Edwards ‘Shark Bay Through Four Centuries 1616-2000’. Hugh passed away earlier this year. PJM and I had the privilege of meeting him at his home last year. (Hugh Edwards (journalist) - Wikipedia).

 

[JohnM]

Around to Turtle Bay and then to Cape Inscription and the replica of Hartog’s famous plate where it was originally nailed to a wood pole.



We continued S on the W coast as far as Mystery Bay, noted for capturing large amounts of flotsam. We then retraced our path back to the lodge, being advised to avoid crossing the NW dunes to get back to the E coast track. It was a full day out 0730-1830.



Final morning. It’s about a 40-minute drive from the Lodge to the barge point.



We’re first off.



Once we were all back on the mainland, it was out to Steep Point as only my brother and I had been there before. I omitted to take a pic, so here’s last year’s.

Then it was about a 7h drive onto the track, out to the main road and onwards to overnight at Dongara, S of Geraldton before the 4h run home on Sunday morning.



A great time had by all! It truly is a magnificent region, thoroughly deserving of its multi-factor World Heritage status.