Provence, Canal du Midi and More

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The Pont-canal de Beziers

This bridge takes the Canal over the river Orb bypassing the original route of the canal which went into the river via an extra two locks.

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A view from the Pont-canal looking towards the Basilica:

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And a slightly different view:

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Beziers

While there a bar that also serves food across the road from the port office, the main part of the city is uphill, about 2km from the port. At least it is downhill coming back.

Heading into town you walk through a nice park:

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This sign describes some of the bird species that frequent the park:

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I presume that the blue cough are predominantly seen in winter, whereas great cough, although less common, may be seen anytime of year...;)


There’s a huge outdoor market and a cathedral,

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There’s also Les Halles (the covered market), lots of restaurants and eateries, and another of those painted walls:

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The view from the top of the cathedral tower with the Pont-canal on the other side of the road bridge and the River Orb beneath:

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And the Bishop's garden:

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Lovely photos, really enjoying the TR, :)

Not really provided there are four of you. The youngest in our group of four is 57.
There would only be 3 of us, Mr Timtammi and me and our almost teenage (probably teenage by the time we do it) daughter.

Are you still on the trip or was it a little while ago? The photo you took of the line of boats waiting for the locks, when was that taken? Just trying to get an idea of how busy it might be in different seasons..
 
Lovely photos, really enjoying the TR, :)


There would only be 3 of us, Mr Timtammi and me and our almost teenage (probably teenage by the time we do it) daughter.

It would be a bit more work, especially for your daughter. We came across a South African family (2 adults and 2 kids) and the kids were working pretty hard; mum said that the kids were over it by the time we met up. I suspect it will be something they will remember and talk about for years to come. Maybe limit it to a week for your first canal trip unless you can drag another person along.

It is handy to have an extra (4th) person on board when ascending the locks as you can put one crew member onshore to catch/tie the lines (ropes); not so critical when descending.

It also depends on whether (and how much) boating experience you have. Although we also met up with two dutch ladies who had never been on a boat before and they surprised me with how well they managed on the first few days.

Another thing would be to plan for less locks each day.
 
Are you still on the trip or was it a little while ago? The photo you took of the line of boats waiting for the locks, when was that taken? Just trying to get an idea of how busy it might be in different seasons..

We did our trip at the end of September/beginning of October. We are still on our trip but no longer on the canal. I am a little bit behind as internet access has not always been available.

The photo waiting for the locks was 29 September but heading back up a few days later there was virtually no queue.

I think the day of the week was probably more important than the time of day. Although it would be good to avoid peak season (as with all travel), especially French school holidays if you can.
 
Capestang (part 2):

From Beziers we headed back upstream towards Carcassonne. As it happened, we arrived in Capestang around late afternoon and decided to stay overnight here this time. This turned out to be a good decision as our second visit coincided with a celebration of the 350 year anniversary of the Canal du Midi arriving in Capestang. We were invited to a free concert (with complimentary tiny bit of pizza and half a glass of local wine).

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The music was from the period of the building of the canal: Bach & similar Baroque period music, plus the organist threw in a bit of jazz and some modern standards. T’was excellent.

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On Sunday, after our morning croissants and coffee, there was a market along the canal with wine degustation, a few food stalls, a band and a girl doing a great impression of Edith Piaf. A great day all round.

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We headed off late afternoon and moored just downstream of a bridge at the eastern end of Argeliers.

We had dinner at a lovely little restaurant on the other side of the canal.

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The food and ambiance were superb.
 
Le Somail

As there are no locks on this section of the canal we were able to get an early start and proceeded upstream stopping at the pretty little village of Le Somail.

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Although the village only has a population of 30-40, there is a bookshop here that has thousands of old and ancient books. +1 found a copy of Victor Hugo’s Les Miserables printed in 1864 and another of his books in 5 volumes from 1840; pity both were in french.

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It would be a bit more work, especially for your daughter. We came across a South African family (2 adults and 2 kids) and the kids were working pretty hard; mum said that the kids were over it by the time we met up. I suspect it will be something they will remember and talk about for years to come. Maybe limit it to a week for your first canal trip unless you can drag another person along.

It is handy to have an extra (4th) person on board when ascending the locks as you can put one crew member onshore to catch/tie the lines (ropes); not so critical when descending.

It also depends on whether (and how much) boating experience you have. Although we also met up with two dutch ladies who had never been on a boat before and they surprised me with how well they managed on the first few days.

Another thing would be to plan for less locks each day.

Timtammi, we have just been discussing how 3 could manage the locks instead of 4. Here it is:

1 First thing would be to tie a few knots in the end of the rope (altogether) to form a clump of knots. Sailors call this a "monkey's fist". Look at this link to give you an idea of what I'm talking about https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...IfoDrM:;_sF7JSQBq3gLnM:&imgrc=A3opfwlRIfoDrM:. JV says that it does not need to be this elaborate, just a few knots together to give the end of the rope some weight. This makes the rope a little easier to throw to whoever is on land. I would recommend that you only do the knots and NOT the Monkey's Fist because there are some places where you have to put the rope through a ring. If you have an elaborate knot, you can't get it undone in a hurry. Even if you are competent at doing a Monkey's Fist - Don't! Have I totally confused you now?

2 Pass the back rope to the skipper prior to going into the lock.

3 Prior to going into the lock one person gets off the boat and climb the stairs to the top of the lock

4 As you enter the lock, the back rope needs to be thrown to the person on the land to loop around the bollard and then passed back to the skipper. Don't be stressed if it requires a few attempts.

5 The other person then throws the front rope to the person on land, who loops it around the bollard and back to the person on the bow.

6 It is important to note - DON'T tie the rope off in the cleat while you are in the lock. When the lock is going up the rope needs to be brought in and when going down the rope needs to be released as necessary.

Going up in the locks is definitely harder than going down. This is not intended to put any of you off. For us, and everyone else that we spoke to, this is an amazing experience. Many people had only taken the boat for a week, however for us we were so pleased that we had the boat for 2 weeks and could have taken it for longer. There are lots of wonderful little places to explore and fabulous restaurants to try along the canals and I imagine that if you only had 1 week it could be a bit of a rush. I guess it's a "suck and see", however I hope this helps.

We are putting together a list of things to take along with you that make the trip more enjoyable. These items are not mentioned by Le Boat. We'll post this in due course.

I have also taken a video of our passage through the Steps which you may find interesting. If you would like to see it, send me a PM and I'll work out how to get it to you.

Also, commenting on JV's comment re less locks per day, the more locks you do the better you get at it.
 
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Although the village only has a population of 30-40, there is a bookshop here that has thousands of old and ancient books. +1 found a copy of Victor Hugo’s Les Miserables printed in 1864 and another of his books in 5 volumes from 1840; pity both were in French.


This is a fine example of not judging a book by it's cover! Who would ever realise what could be inside this building.

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Still loving your travels and photos and the tips provided by Gem56 and I will definitely be interested in the list of things to take with you, that you are compiling.
 
There would only be 3 of us, Mr Timtammi and me and our almost teenage (probably teenage by the time we do it) daughter.

Further to my reply at post 106 and Gem's at 112, I should have noted that, as mentioned earlier, there is a stretch of the canal running from the top of the steps (just west of Beziers) to just east of Argens-Minervois that is 53 km without locks so that is a relatively easy section and contains some of the prettiest scenery. So if going through the locks with only 3 on board is the concern then you could concentrate on this stretch.

There are two boat hire companies in Le Somail: Nichols (No experience needed canal boat hire | Nicols) and Minervois (Minervois Cruisers - Canal Holidays in the South of France). Also, Locaboat (Canal du midi boat hire & french river cruises - Locaboat) has a base in Argens from where there is only one lock to negotiate to get to the 53km section without locks.

Gem56 feels that, even as a novice, it would be a pity not to experience going through some locks (she loved going through the steps) but of course there were 4 of us and two with considerable experience.
 
Continuing west/upstream through the Minervois region. A noted in the last post we pass through some of the nicest scenery of our voyage so far:

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