Route 66 - Chicago to LA

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I hear you! In 2010 we experienced a total heatwave in September. We drove with the lid off from Vegas to Hoover Dam, then got as far as Laughlin before our heads were scorched. We pulled up in a car park and put the top on, I'm sure the locals were giggling "City Slickers" to themselves as we sheepishly drove away towards Oatman and back to Vegas.

For the record, it was a 2010 Red Mustang V6 convertible. A a really beautiful looking car. Back then, there wasn't too many new models around and it got comments wherever we went. This year though, every second car on Route 66 was a Mustang. So at least our Toyota stood out in the sea of Mustangs at a roadside attraction. We were also spared the indignity of trying to open the wrong car with our remote.........
 
LOL..sunburn, windburn, frostbite...yes convertibles are only good for a few days a year.
 
The next couple of days went by in a blur. Not because we were drunk. But rather - it was SO MUCH FUN! We shopped at the Outlets Mall, just south of the Strip (it gets bigger every year) and dined at our favourite Mexican restaurant - La Salsa Cantina in the Miracle Mile Shops (outside inside again). Mr Clipped's new knees stood up amazingly well to the Vegas sidewalks - they finally got to see some sun after all those miles across a chilly USA in traccy dacs.

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We ticked off another mesmerizing fountain show at the Bellagio and did enough recon and intel on gaming furniture at many casinos to keep our accountant happy. I was proud to see that the product we build back home was far superior to anything I saw in Vegas.

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A quick trip to Count's Kustoms in Las Vegas was a quirky item on the agenda and we relished the opportunity to see some outrageous spray paint work by this famous team. We entered via a delicious deep purple velvet reception area and ushered into a warehouse showroom that doubles as a live set when the show is being filmed. There are avenues of amazing "works" that have received the Count and his entourage magic. And everything was AWESOME.

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We're old school enough to know how to do gold leaf, but had believed this form of signage was redundant. How wrong we were. It's alive and well in Las Vegas. The pimped cars, bikes - even a coffin, much of it decorated and embellished with gorgeous 22 carat fine gold leaf, finished with delicate dagger outlines and delicious hand-painted scrollwork.
This devilishly, diabolical diversion was definitely a highlight and we left feeling that wonderful belly-full satiable euphoria that one gets when they have enjoyed all they can possibly enjoy.

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We finished our Vegas Sabbatical with a hip new after-dark experience called Brilliant at the Neon Museum.

Here, giant old signs do not come to die. They are lovingly arranged in a generous courtyard next to the museum and lend themselves to the inspired imagination of artist Craig Winslow. None of the signs actually work, unlike the vibrant neon dinosaurs next door that are offered in a separate show. But through the wonders of modern technology and some very clever acoustics - these relics come alive in a 30 minute audio and special effect LED show. It transports you back to the days when Sinatra and the gang ruled the stage and the streets. The calibre of artistry and the sheer imagination that got this project off the ground is absolutely to be admired.

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It helped that our visit here (the last night of our stay) was a gorgeous balmy evening. The warm, quiet night and twinkling sky really adds to the atmosphere. I actually got a lump in my throat as some of them burst into illumination. It was like that scene in Titanic, where the camera scoured over the sunken, barnacled starboard deck - and suddenly it was all new and she was alive. You can't help but be swept up in the emotion of it all. And when the liquid gold strains of Elvis start pouring "Viva Las Vegas" over you, there's not a foot that isn't tapping or a hip that isn't swaying.

They limit the ticket sales for each event to ensure maximum viewing pleasure for all. My video is probably better than the images here, but it would be a spoiler, so I'll refrain and simply say it's a highly recommended 5/5.

We retired to Room 33/841 room smiling - with visions of our next Vegas Vacation already spinning in our heads. Tomorrow, we head off to LA and spend the last few days having as much fun as we possibly can, before the long flight back to Oz.
 
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A final breakfast at the Cantina and we were on our way out of Las Vegas. We climbed the pointy perimeter ranges slowly, before hitting the last undulated expanse of the Californian Desert.

Route 66 is a story with a thousand pictures. And these last few hundred miles were no exception. Like a giant roll of tufted carpet that's been unravelled after years in storage - the landscape rose and fell in identical ripples, with the repetitive precision of a mathematical formula. Our black tar highway split it straight down the middle - to a horizon that always seemed further away than it actually was. Each plateau promised a new view, only to succumb to another massive valley of desert weeds and the disappearing act of a singular gravel road in endless perspective.

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We passed by Peggy Sue's Diner, but stopped only for the photo as it was jam packed and we wanted to make LA before sunset.

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On to Barstow. And straight through Barstow. We've stayed before and weren't keen on reliving. But lots of beautiful old signs and many abandoned hotels to keep the window down and my head out the car like a delirious puppy.

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One last stop before we crossed into LA: Victorville. A tiny town with a huge Route 66 following. There's an old antique shop here where the people don't just sell you something to take away. They take their time and talk with you, and they impart that unique old America hospitality that money just can't buy.
Mr Clipped was like me in a jewellery store. He wanted everything that was for sale. We found beautiful old antique cameras, car badges and emblems, even an old speedometer from a Chevy. Arms full and wallets empty - we piled back into the Toyota - Oh What A Feeling!

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The only thing now between us and the Pacific Ocean, was the Angeles National Forest ranges. We passed through safely, not knowing that only days after our crossing, deadly fires would engulf much of this beautiful region again. It's a sad fact that California and the LA basin has always been a very dry and brittle environment. Late summer brings those hot Santa Ana winds, And they are destructive. We were most fortunate to be oblivious to this years' onslaught, the last week of October was beautiful weather with not a cloud in the sky and the kind of clean air that you would not normally associate with LA.

The mountain pass was pretty much the end of those glorious open roads as we had known them.

Route 66 undergoes a hectic transformation when she spits you out of the hills. She morphs from a beautiful, curved and sexy highway - into a sterile, straight stretch of concrete that totally disappears among the angular grid of LA's complicated freeway system. Mr Clipped's experience with LA traffic is pretty comprehensive, after so many years behind a wheel on the wrong side of a car. But today's traffic was horrendous. We were lucky to hug the rails and enjoy relative freedom in the commuter lanes through to Pasadena. LA drivers are a breed unto themselves and no-one cares who you are, what you are, or where you're going. It was like being plunged into a marathon race where everyone is scrambling to be in front.

I know better than to talk to Mr Clipped in moments like these, so the last hour was driven in relative silence.

Except for his swearing.
 
At 4:30pm on Friday 19 October - we checked in to the Hilton Hotel at Universal Studio City in Los Angeles. Weary, grubby and backsides sore from our epic drive - we freshened up and wandered downstairs to enjoy the Hilton's famous Rib & Seafood buffet dinner before calling it a night. Our room overlooked Universal Studios and it was fun to watch the excitement of people entering for the Halloween Horror Nights from our high vantage point.

On Saturday, we took the I5 down to Commerce and spent the morning having some retail therapy at the Citadel Outlet Mall. I am lucky that Mr Clipped accommodates my sick fetish for Halloween. He took me to the Halloween Warehouse nearby, where we stocked up on some gnarly gravestones and other useless stuff that I plaster our house with on October 31 each year. We invested in a delightful corpse that we named Phil. The weather was getting quite warm by now, so the three of us returned to our hotel for a well earned swim (not Phil).

Sunday dawned bright and clear. Today we were going to be VIP's at Universal Studios. We skipped breakfast at the hotel, as they include this in your ticket price. It's a hefty AUD500 per person. But we have done Universal Studios with four screaming kids for many years and this was our reward. We hopped along nice and early (2 minute walk from our hotel) and slipped through the VIP entrance with the anticipation of a pair of kids who were going on their first school excursion.

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We checked in to Reception, where we were welcomed with a warm smile from 2 dapper looking guys who presented us with our souvenir lanyards. The words VIP were big enough so that all cast members (and other patrons) could clearly see you were part of the Elite Chosen Few. There was a barcode on the back for scanning at all attractions and events.

Breakfast upstairs consisted of a generous choice of savoury croissants, sweet pastries, or yoghurts/fruits with tea/coffee and cold juices. It was an elegant dining room. There were also numerous staff waiting on you politely - discreetly clearing plates or refilling your beverage.

Our tour guide came over to introduce herself: Donna was a cheeky bundle of knowledge - sly jokes coupled with an enormous passion for her job and a cracker of a host. Loud and always smiling. My kind of gal.

When it was time to start our day, a group of us gathered at the top of the stairs. Probably around 12 people. Donna came over and whispered that she was releasing the 2 of us to the second tour guide (Tony) as her group turned out to be overseas visitors with little English skills and she didn't want us to be disadvantaged with the language barrier. We moved to Tony's group and met some thoroughly lovely people from all over the world. Another couple of Aussie girls picked our accent and gravitated towards us when they found out we had extensive Park experience. But we let Tony do all the talking - he wasn't as electric as Donna, but he was a great bloke with wonderful insight.

So, we cruised down the main avenue, past the now huge crowd waiting for the Park to open to the general public (another hours wait lol). It was incredible to wander past attractions and experience Universal Studios when the streets are empty. It's almost surreal. The VIP tour had already paid for itself.

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The day was filled with hilarious anecdotes, private access to film sets, intimate walks to areas that are normally inaccessible. It was pure heaven. The Prop Shop was amazing - and the Absolute Front of the Line access to all rides, whenever we wanted - was probably the memory that stays with you. Around midday, we were taken to a dining restaurant I had always thought was a stage set front. The heavy glass doors opened to reveal another beautiful dining room - chefs with starched white uniforms and those adorable chef hats, all busying themselves around a comprehensive hot/cold buffet. We chose to dine alfresco and picked a fabulous table on the balcony overlooking the Park. I must have tasted every item on the menu, from tender beef ribeye roast, to fresh mussels and white wine pasta. The sweets were almost too beautiful to eat. But I ate them anyway.

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As it was Halloween, a couple of "characters" made their way into the dining area to entertain guests. I spotted Dracula and immediately flashed my neck for him and a classic photo op.

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After lunch, we rode some more rides and caught a couple of shows before it was time for Tony to say goodbye. There was still a couple of hours left - so we all split up and went our separate ways to enjoy the VIP experience on our own. I have to say, the ticket price was totally worth the amount of entertainment you get, compared with hour long wait lines for the rest of humanity. We saw everything, rode everything (sometimes twice) and generally felt very VIP, which I guess is why they call it that.

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We wandered home as the gates to Universal were closing and we reflected on what was an epic finale to our American holiday this year.
 
On Monday, we packed up and moved into a grand suite at the Hyatt Regency LAX Airport. It was our last night on US soil, so we took a cue from Tom Haverford in Parks and Recreation and said "TREAT YO SELF". Mr Clipped had booked the Executive Suite, a 3 room apartment next door to the Club on Level 3.

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Our room wasn't ready when we checked in early, so they gave us a new room to hang out in while they prepared the suite (above).

We left our gear in the smaller room and headed off to finish what we started 3 weeks ago....

We drove the last leg of Route 66 to the Santa Monica Pier.

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Fate was smiling on us. There was a vacant car spot right on the main road. It still had an hour left on the parking meter. We took each others hand and slowly walked down to the pier, reaching the final signpost that heralded the official End of the Trail. It was with mixed emotions that we took our photo.

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And that was it. There's not exactly a band that fires up with The Star Spangled Banner. There's no certificate. No fanfare. It's all very anti-climax.

Then, a nice warm feeling comes over you. The memories from this holiday - the priceless ones we made when we drove Route 66 across the United States. Only three weeks on the Mother Road, yet it felt almost light years since our departure in Chicago on 6 October. We've loved every single minute, every single mile. And although we'll probably never do the whole Route 66 again, I guarantee we will drive parts of it again. It's still calling us. There are places we should have stopped, so many kind people we never had the privilege to know better. The end of Route 66 isn't the destination. It's the months of planning and researching. Logistics. And the constant evolution of those plans to accommodate this living and breathing highway - and the people who live it. Route 66 gave us way more than she asked. It was a pleasure to be with her, even for such a tiny moment in time.


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On 23 October, we flew home to Australia. Sadly, Virgin denied us the much anticipated upgrade from Premium to Business for the LAX-SYD leg. But the Emirates Lounge was phenomenal. We spent a good five hours there before our 23:45 flight. I fell asleep for a while. And woke up with a soft blanket over me. Some kind staff member had really outshone their job description.

At least we finally got to experience Virgin Australia Premium Economy via 16H/K on the B777. My thoughts? Not worth it really. I had a better sleep in Economy X when we flew in 2017. The plated meals were nice, but the pitch was useless for a vertically-challenged passenger like me, as the foot rests were built into Row 15. Almost 12 inches away. They were clearly visible, but no matter how much I stretched, they remained elusive. And they teased me all the way home. Two things saved this from being a very ordinary flight. My decision to always carry a full size pillow. And my Bose QC headphones.

America - watch out. Next year, Mr Clipped and I book our newest American Adventure for January 2020. Eight people (including 2 boyfriends for our daughters). Should be fun.

Shouldn't it???

This is Clipped-Wings. I hope you enjoyed the ride.

Over and Out.
 
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Loved this TR clipped_wings. Driving the full length of route 66 has always been a goal of mine and this has inspired me to get serious about it. Thanks for sharing.
 
First time I went to the pier it was pouring rain...nobody in sight so I drove straight out and onto the pier as far as I could.
Next visit it was a nice day and packed solid...had to park blocks away.

Have you done the Loneliest Road in America and the ET Highway around Area 51?

Good report, makes me want to go back!
 
Excellent TR - you really need to set yourself up as a blogger and pay for yourself to travel around. Great photos, great writing and really enjoyable. Thanks
 
We will be at the finish line on Thursday so we have missed you by a bit. Thanks for the TR which was enjoyable.
 
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