RTW in F/J - Hand Carry Only - Iceland, Finland, Washington and a few other places

Tue 01 Oct

... As a data point, food here did look expensive, with one place selling edamame for 2,700 ISK a plate, another Italian restaurant had appetizers starting at 3,800 ISK so yes, be prepared for expensive food if you eat at the restaurants.
We just shut our eyes and decided not to think about the cost of food / drinks / petrol etc (or exchange rate with the south pacific peso) although MrLat DID moderate his usually enthusiastic consumption of "foreign malted products" ie local draft beers 😂
 
Wed 02 Oct

Today was another full day of touring, this time going along the South coast of Iceland. A lot of waterfalls were seen, as well as the famous black sand beaches, icebergs, and seals. Unfortunately, the weather remained overcast and drizzly.

The first waterfall was Skogafoss, which is one of the biggest in Iceland with a drop of over 60m. The climb up the staircase was worth it for the views.
Screenshot 2024-10-02 220022.png
We then went to the Reynisfjara Black Sands beach, which features the distinctive black sand and basalt columns. Apparently these stacks featured in Game of Thrones…
Screenshot 2024-10-02 220040.png
The final stop of the day was Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, which featured more black sand as well as ice chunks washed up on the shore and icebergs in the lagoon itself.
Screenshot 2024-10-02 220031.png
Accommodation for the night was at Smyrlabjorg guest houses. Accommodation is a bit more primitive - my room has two single beds and an ensuite. The restaurant on site is surprisingly good. For dinner I had a lamb carpaccio, lamb burger, and a skyr cheesecake thing, along with a local beer and a shot of Icelandic schnapps. Total cost came to about 11,000 ISK.
 
That would be the dream but I don't think it's likely to happen sadly - if one can really complain about flying any version of JAL F haha

Look to have just missed by a couple of weeks. A350-1000 now scheduled on JL44 every 2nd day from 24 October. :(
 
Fantastic trip report! I’ll be visiting Norway, Iceland, and Copenhagen next month, and I’m really excited!

Which tour company did you use for Iceland? Could you share the link?

I have booked this tour and the itinerary seems to be similar to yours.
Iceland -3-Day Ice Cave, South Coast, Golden Circle and Northern Lights
I used Guide to Iceland. I'll attach my itinerary after the Iceland portion of the trip.

At the end I was going to do a full review of whether I'd do a packaged tour again vs a DIY book each tour individually type thing. All Guide to Iceland does is aggregate a bunch of things together for you - each day tour has been provided by a different smaller company. The Southern tour was provided by Nice Travel
 
We hired a car and drove / toured Iceland ourselves over 13 days in Sep 2022...drove a total of 3200 kms. We booked and stayed at hotels etc along the way. The video below was one of many that inspired us to visit Iceland:

 
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Absolutely loving this report! Brings back memories of my Iceland adventures! Looking forward to the rest of your trip, and hope you continue to see the Northern Lights!
 
Thu 03 Oct

We began our return trip back to Reykjavik at 0845. Our first stop was at the famous glacier ice cave. Iceland has the largest glacier in Eurasia, and today we were going to get up close to one and explore an ice cave. I hadn’t done a lot of research on this activity beforehand but whilst it was interesting to see, I think it may be approaching the ‘tourist trap’ end of the spectrum more than a ‘breathtaking once-in-a-lifetime view’.

You begin by returning to the Jokulsarlon lagoon, where another tour group takes you via jeep to the foot of the glacier. In my mind I was expecting a white ice sheet like in Alaska, but because of al the black sand from the volcano, the glacier looks just like rock from a distance. It’s only up close that you realise that it appears black because of all the fine sand trapped in the ice.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 100153.png
From the parking spot it’s about a 10 min walk across very rocky terrain to the start of the glacier and the entrance to the cave. Because of a recent accident, the authorities have closed all the other ice caves, meaning that everyone has to go to this one particular spot. We were lucky, having left early, and we were fifth in the queue by 0930 to enter the cave – and there was a line forming behind us. Worse still, the rain was starting to set in, and as the cave is not very large, all the other groups had to wait in the rain. Our guide estimated that 3,000 people would go through today alone, making it some 20 groups of 15. I reckon that would be a fair estimate, and I wouldn’t be surprised if there were at least 10 in that morning.

The cave itself is about 100m long, and goes directly through the glacier before ending in an open area which in winter can actually be used as an exit when the water freezes over. The view was quite nice, but if I had had to stand in the rain for an hour waiting for my turn I definitely would not have thought it worth my while.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 100121.png
Overnight, more ice had come in from the sea, so I got some more pictures of the Crystal Beach at Jokulsarlon.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 100145.pngScreenshot 2024-10-04 100313.png
We then continued our drive back, with a stop at Vik for lunch, where I had a 3,000 ISK pad thai. It was surprisingly tasty actually.

Our final stop was at the Gullfoss waterfall, one of the most famous ones in Iceland. The weather cleared up. With the sun out, Iceland looks absolutely stunning and it’s a shame the timing didn’t work out better as the next week is set to have some amazing weather.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 100128.pngScreenshot 2024-10-04 100334.pngScreenshot 2024-10-04 100402.png
My accommodation for the night was at Reykjavik Marina. It was very busy when I checked in at 2000, probably because there were a lot of people leaving to get on Northern Lights tours. With the very clear weather and solar activity they probably had an excellent chance. The rooms are nice but on the smaller side.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 100354.png

I then went out for a late dinner at Islenski barinn, a restaurant specialising in Icelandic food. The highlight for me was the puffin, which was quite tasty and similar to duck. I only ordered it as an entrée and it wasn’t very large. I also had a chance to try grilled right whale, which tasted very similar to beef, but quite tough. Picture of Puffin pancake below.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 100346.png
My last activity for Iceland is a food tour, so I hope to sample more delicacies such as fermented shark, hotdogs and more!
 
The food tour kicked off at 1030 with 5 stops. The itinerary was as follows:

Hótel Borg (Address: Pósthússtræti 11, 101 Reykjavik)

  • Icelandic pancake with sugar, cream and Jam
  • Coffee
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Address: Tryggvagata 1, 101 Reykjavík)

  • Lamb Hot Dog
    • Raw Onions
    • French Fried Onions
    • Ketchup (Vals Tómatsósa)
    • Sweet Mustard (SS Mustard)
    • Remoulade (Mayonnaise-based Relish Sauce)
Íslenski Barinn (Address: Ingólfsstræti 1a, 101 Reykjavík)

  • Traditional Icelandic Meat Soup (Kjötsúpa)
    • Lamb Meat
    • Rutabaga
    • Carrots
    • Potatoes
    • Lamb Stock
    • Salt and Pepper
  • Viking Gylltur
  • Brennivín / Black Death
  • Appelsín (Orange Soda)
  • Fermented Shark
  • Bread and Butter
Solon bistro & bar

  • Address: Bankastræti 7a
  • Icelandic lamb chop
Hannesarholt (Address: Grundarstígur 10 , 101 Reykjavik)

  • Hjónabandssæla (Marriage Bliss Cake)
  • Coffee
Key thoughts:

The fermented shark (Viking Gylltur) was not as bad as expected, it wasn’t super strong and the smell wasn’t as offensive as people made it out to be. The Brennivín (Black Death) has carraway notes and was quite strong – apparently around 40%.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 170256.png

I’m now chilling in the surprisingly nice Iceland Air Saga lounge. It has stunning views, lots of light and a decent selection of Icelandic food (i.e. herring, bread, cheese etc.) The blueberry liquor is a highlight with soda.
Screenshot 2024-10-04 170228.pngScreenshot 2024-10-04 170240.pngScreenshot 2024-10-04 170247.pngScreenshot 2024-10-04 170306.pngScreenshot 2024-10-04 170316.png
 
Fri 04 Oct

AY994
KEF-HEL
18:02-00:15, dur 3h 13m
A319, Seat 4C

The flight to Helsinki was delayed slightly due to the aircraft’s late arrival. However, boarding was smooth and I again had plenty of space in the overhead lockers for my baggage. There were 5 rows of Euro-business, but only 6 pax in the cabin, so there were a lot of empty seats. Whilst the setup is similar to BA, Finnair doesn’t have a table to block the middle seats.

Service on board was efficient if slightly cold in comparison to BA or QF. The AY uniform is somewhat intimidating and I got some real *ahem* ‘WWII vibes’ from the black uniforms with silver facings that the flight attendants wore. After an initial drinks service and pretzels, the CSM went through the cabin with the main meal option – of which there was only one, and it was chicken. The side dish of what I assume to be herring? Or mackerel? With carrot and mayonnaise was a bold choice – it was tasty but if you don’t like fish you were in for a bad time. The chicken was essentially a schnitzel and wasn’t bad, the potatoes that came with it had heaps of flavour with a lemony tang throughout that really elevated the dish. The lone caper was an interesting addition. I paired this with an unknown white wine which was ok.
Screenshot 2024-10-05 115848.pngScreenshot 2024-10-05 115905.png

Afterwards, dessert was served which consisted of a large cinnamon pretzel, which I had with a coffee. I later ordered the signature AY blueberry coughtail “Nordic Blush” which came in a can and was decent, definitely drinkable. Besides the meal service it was a very quiet flight. The A319 has slightly more leg space than the A320neo I flew over on, so I was quite comfortable.

Platform aside, I personally think the BA service was better both in terms of service and food. BA’s provision of a menu is nice, and you also get more than one meal option. The service also felt warmer and the cabin crew regularly patrolled the cabin checking if passengers wanted anything. On this flight, I only saw the FA once or twice after the meal service and I was tempted to press the call button. I also like the table that BA provides at is a little extra storage space. However, there was nothing bad about the AY flight, and I definitely would have no issue with flying them again on a similar short haul route.

We landed slightly later as a result of the delay, just after midnight local time. Interestingly we were one of the last flights of the night with one or two departures shortly after and then nothing until 0530. There are a number of surprisingly comfortable looking benches at the gate, and I was surprised to see a few passengers racked out on them, with eyemasks and pillows presumably waiting for their morning flight. Rather than discouraging people from sleeping at the airport overnight, Helsinki seems to encourage them, with lots of longer sofas and benches without arm rests on them.

Having flown from Iceland there was no requirement to clear immigration, and with no baggage to pickup I was out of the airport in about 10 minutes and into a waiting bolt. I could’ve attempted to catch a train but my hotel was near the port and would’ve required another connection and taken about 1.5hrs all up. A rideshare got me there in 25 minutes and for 22 Euros, it wasn’t too bad.

I’m staying at the UNITY Helsinki, a series of small apartments designed for anything from short to long term stays. There isn’t much in the area but I picked it because tomorrow I’m going to Estonia via the ferry and it is close to the terminal, as well as public transport. The room isn’t massive and the top floor is quite close to the ceiling – I’m not tall and I almost brush my head against the roof when I stand up. If you’re closer to 180cms you’d probably have to duck climbing the stairs when going to bed.
Screenshot 2024-10-05 115856.pngScreenshot 2024-10-05 115913.png

Today’s plan is to check out the military museum on a nearby island and wander around town a bit before a dinner at the 1 Michelin star Palace Restaurant. The skies are clear and it's a few degrees warmer than Iceland but still quite brisk so it should be a good day to explore - once my phone has charged!
 
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Fri 04 Oct

AY994
KEF-HEL
18:02-00:15, dur 3h 13m
A319, Seat 4C

The flight to Helsinki was delayed slightly due to the aircraft’s late arrival. However, boarding was smooth and I again had plenty of space in the overhead lockers for my baggage. There were 5 rows of Euro-business, but only 6 pax in the cabin, so there were a lot of empty seats. Whilst the setup is similar to BA, Finnair doesn’t have a table to block the middle seats.

Service on board was efficient if slightly cold in comparison to BA or QF. The AY uniform is somewhat intimidating and I got some real *ahem* ‘WWII vibes’ from the black uniforms with silver facings that the flight attendants wore. After an initial drinks service and pretzels, the CSM went through the cabin with the main meal option – of which there was only one, and it was chicken. The side dish of what I assume to be herring? Or mackerel? With carrot and mayonnaise was a bold choice – it was tasty but if you don’t like fish you were in for a bad time. The chicken was essentially a schnitzel and wasn’t bad, the potatoes that came with it had heaps of flavour with a lemony tang throughout that really elevated the dish. The lone caper was an interesting addition. I paired this with an unknown white wine which was ok.
View attachment 409859View attachment 409861

Afterwards, dessert was served which consisted of a large cinnamon pretzel, which I had with a coffee. I later ordered the signature AY blueberry coughtail “Nordic Blush” which came in a can and was decent, definitely drinkable. Besides the meal service it was a very quiet flight. The A319 has slightly more leg space than the A320neo I flew over on, so I was quite comfortable.

Platform aside, I personally think the BA service was better both in terms of service and food. BA’s provision of a menu is nice, and you also get more than one meal option. The service also felt warmer and the cabin crew regularly patrolled the cabin checking if passengers wanted anything. On this flight, I only saw the FA once or twice after the meal service and I was tempted to press the call button. I also like the table that BA provides at is a little extra storage space. However, there was nothing bad about the AY flight, and I definitely would have no issue with flying them again on a similar short haul route.

We landed slightly later as a result of the delay, just after midnight local time. Interestingly we were one of the last flights of the night with one or two departures shortly after and then nothing until 0530. There are a number of surprisingly comfortable looking benches at the gate, and I was surprised to see a few passengers racked out on them, with eyemasks and pillows presumably waiting for their morning flight. Rather than discouraging people from sleeping at the airport overnight, Helsinki seems to encourage them, with lots of longer sofas and benches without arm rests on them.

Having flown from Iceland there was no requirement to clear immigration, and with no baggage to pickup I was out of the airport in about 10 minutes and into a waiting bolt. I could’ve attempted to catch a train but my hotel was near the port and would’ve required another connection and taken about 1.5hrs all up. A rideshare got me there in 25 minutes and for 22 Euros, it wasn’t too bad.

I’m staying at the UNITY Helsinki, a series of small apartments designed for anything from short to long term stays. There isn’t much in the area but I picked it because tomorrow I’m going to Estonia via the ferry and it is close to the terminal, as well as public transport. The room isn’t massive and the top floor is quite close to the ceiling – I’m not tall and I almost brush my head against the roof when I stand up. If you’re closer to 180cms you’d probably have to duck climbing the stairs when going to bed.
View attachment 409860View attachment 409862

Today’s plan is to check out the military museum on a nearby island and wander around town a bit before a dinner at the 1 Michelin star Palace Restaurant. The skies are clear and it's a few degrees warmer than Iceland but still quite brisk so it should be a good day to explore - once my phone has charged!

Probably too late but I have a good contact in Tallinn. He gives a great tour of the new and the old town.
 
Fri 04 Oct

AY994
KEF-HEL
18:02-00:15, dur 3h 13m
A319, Seat 4C

The flight to Helsinki was delayed slightly due to the aircraft’s late arrival. However, boarding was smooth and I again had plenty of space in the overhead lockers for my baggage. There were 5 rows of Euro-business, but only 6 pax in the cabin, so there were a lot of empty seats. Whilst the setup is similar to BA, Finnair doesn’t have a table to block the middle seats.

Service on board was efficient if slightly cold in comparison to BA or QF. The AY uniform is somewhat intimidating and I got some real *ahem* ‘WWII vibes’ from the black uniforms with silver facings that the flight attendants wore. After an initial drinks service and pretzels, the CSM went through the cabin with the main meal option – of which there was only one, and it was chicken. The side dish of what I assume to be herring? Or mackerel? With carrot and mayonnaise was a bold choice – it was tasty but if you don’t like fish you were in for a bad time. The chicken was essentially a schnitzel and wasn’t bad, the potatoes that came with it had heaps of flavour with a lemony tang throughout that really elevated the dish. The lone caper was an interesting addition. I paired this with an unknown white wine which was ok.
View attachment 409859View attachment 409861

Afterwards, dessert was served which consisted of a large cinnamon pretzel, which I had with a coffee. I later ordered the signature AY blueberry coughtail “Nordic Blush” which came in a can and was decent, definitely drinkable. Besides the meal service it was a very quiet flight. The A319 has slightly more leg space than the A320neo I flew over on, so I was quite comfortable.

Platform aside, I personally think the BA service was better both in terms of service and food. BA’s provision of a menu is nice, and you also get more than one meal option. The service also felt warmer and the cabin crew regularly patrolled the cabin checking if passengers wanted anything. On this flight, I only saw the FA once or twice after the meal service and I was tempted to press the call button. I also like the table that BA provides at is a little extra storage space. However, there was nothing bad about the AY flight, and I definitely would have no issue with flying them again on a similar short haul route.

We landed slightly later as a result of the delay, just after midnight local time. Interestingly we were one of the last flights of the night with one or two departures shortly after and then nothing until 0530. There are a number of surprisingly comfortable looking benches at the gate, and I was surprised to see a few passengers racked out on them, with eyemasks and pillows presumably waiting for their morning flight. Rather than discouraging people from sleeping at the airport overnight, Helsinki seems to encourage them, with lots of longer sofas and benches without arm rests on them.

Having flown from Iceland there was no requirement to clear immigration, and with no baggage to pickup I was out of the airport in about 10 minutes and into a waiting bolt. I could’ve attempted to catch a train but my hotel was near the port and would’ve required another connection and taken about 1.5hrs all up. A rideshare got me there in 25 minutes and for 22 Euros, it wasn’t too bad.

I’m staying at the UNITY Helsinki, a series of small apartments designed for anything from short to long term stays. There isn’t much in the area but I picked it because tomorrow I’m going to Estonia via the ferry and it is close to the terminal, as well as public transport. The room isn’t massive and the top floor is quite close to the ceiling – I’m not tall and I almost brush my head against the roof when I stand up. If you’re closer to 180cms you’d probably have to duck climbing the stairs when going to bed.
View attachment 409860View attachment 409862

Today’s plan is to check out the military museum on a nearby island and wander around town a bit before a dinner at the 1 Michelin star Palace Restaurant. The skies are clear and it's a few degrees warmer than Iceland but still quite brisk so it should be a good day to explore - once my phone has charged!
I got some real *ahem* ‘WWII vibes’ from the black uniforms with silver facings that the flight attendants wore.

Don't forget the SS gloves.....The Finns were on the losing side but battled well against the Soviets. They may well enact that again shortly—look for the tell-tale signs around the place they are in advanced preparation mode. The concrete supply and placement contracts there would be lucrative.

The Finns joined NATO in April 2023. They have high gun ownership but relatively low gun-related deaths
The lone caper was an interesting addition

Has Joyce turned up? I don't find Scandinavia a foodie paradise. In terms of Airline food, BA takes GOLD

I was out of the airport in about 10 minutes and into a waiting bolt

Did you recce AY's early check-in arrangements?
 

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