So... what car do you guys drive when not flying?

An aviation story about the use of sub tanks..

A group of A4Gs were flying from Pearce to Edinburgh. To do that they needed full internal fuel, plus two 2000lb drop tanks. The aircraft gauge system showed internal and external fuel, but not each external tank individually. The normal way of using it was to just turn the transfer on, and leave it until the tanks were empty. The transfer would start and stop by itself, as the flow rate from the externals was higher than the rate of usage. It stopped every time the internals were full. Each time it did that it would lose a small amount of fuel.

So, one of the boys decides to save a little bit of fuel by turning the transfer on and off himself. The problem with this procedure was that when the others in the formation had burnt through 4,000 lbs of fuel, and started burning internal fuel, their fuel gauges started reflecting exactly what fuel they had available. Because our lad still had a mix of internal and external, his gauge was showing what was on board. Eventually he decided to empty the externals, but shortly after that he discovered that one of the external tanks had not transferred at all. But because of the way he managed the fuel, he was now well past the point of no return for the fuel he actually had available. So, the two tanks were jettisoned, one full, and one empty, into the Bight, and he plonked the aircraft into Whyalla...arriving on fumes.
 
5AE584ED-ADF8-4114-9402-572534DB8479.jpeg The 200 series main and subtank has an interesting system to ensure that the subtank empties before the main tank and everything is automatic.

There is a pump in the main tank which pumps fuel from main tank through a Venturi nozzle back into the main tank. The Venturi nozzle then via a subtank fuel line vacuums fuel from the subtank into the main tank.
As long as there is fuel for main pump, the subtank will always empty first especially as the subtank is half the size of the main. When subtank is empty the pump inside the main tank still runs and is not left dry.

Of course if the main tank pump fails then subtank fuel cannot be accessed, except for some gravitational effect as the subtank sits a little higher than the main. However as the fuel gauge only measures the fuel in the main tank there is no problem except for higher than actual fuel consumption

(Fuel to engine is always drawn from main tank)

Filling is via one main pipe which feeds both tanks and takes a bit longer due to regular air locks being formed as the branch to subtank sits a little high and is smaller than main fill pipe. Always have to wait for system to burp itself.
I always prefer to fill up to the fuel cap.
 
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Ah so the transfer pump was not working for the full drop tank but because of the manual operation he didn’t find out about it until past point of no return?. So had to dump and run to Whyalla with whatever he got?

Whereas if set to auto he would have discovered that the internal tank was emptying when it should not have, a lot earlier, and hopefully before point of no return?

The other hassle with the 100 series is there is only one fuel gauge but 2 different rates of needle movement which increases range anxiety
 
Ah so the transfer pump was not working for the full drop tank but because of the manual operation he didn’t find out about it until past point of no return?. So had to dump and run to Whyalla with whatever he got?

No pumps though. The externals were just pressurised with bleed air. Jettisoned because he couldn't afford the drag.

Whereas if set to auto he would have discovered that the internal tank was emptying when it should not have, a lot earlier, and hopefully before point of no return?

Yes, it would have shown up well before.
 
In PNG we drive a Toyota Harrier that is not available in Aus- it’s a Japanese import. It cost us AUS $23,000 3 1/2 years ago and its a 2001 model!
 
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At work we are buying the latest Japanese Toyota Camry hybrid and the car can go over 1000 Kms on a single tank.They are running in the 4 to 5 litres per 100Kms depending on the driver. The boot space has been fixed too.
 
At work we are buying the latest Japanese Toyota Camry hybrid and the car can go over 1000 Kms on a single tank.They are running in the 4 to 5 litres per 100Kms depending on the driver. The boot space has been fixed too.
My i30 turbo diesel Manual could get those sorts of figures. My Jeep, on the freeway can get down as low as 7.6. I don’t think that the Camry hybrid’s fuel economy is anything to brag about.
 
With our work cars running up around 200,000 kms before changeover it is nice to know we are paying less of the $12.4 billion fuel excise and trying to be green.
 
About 15 years ago I could get from Sydney to Melbourne in one tank in my VY 6 cylinder Commadore. Different story around town though!
 
I have just bought another touareg diesel ; around town they are not particularly economical especially if one drives with a bit of joie de vie.
Otoh running up the inland, as far over the speed limit as I dared, we were around 6l/100km most of the time.
My much loved old girl now needs a home if anyone knows anyone who knows anyone who……...
 
Our Touraeg (2013 V6TDI 180kW) will get high 6s low 7s all day on the freeway. Around town, it still keeps itself under 10, and 12s is really poor traffic / heavy foot.
 
OK, I'm after some advice! I want to replace our everyday car, 2013 Ford Focus driven mainly by the boss, originally I was thinking a supercab ute, Ranger, Hilux sort of thing, but I now think it would be too big. So now it more likely to be a soft roader.
I want something I can take down dirt roads without having to worry about anything falling off. We aren't going to do really serious offroad stuff, but we do like to do backroads.
It has to be 4 wheel drive and a diesel, preferably manual, It would probably need to be able to tow a decent size trailer, if I don't get a ute.
Does anyone here have thoughts on a Forester, Outback, Escape, Pathfinder and the like?
Something like an Everest or big Toyota or something that size isn't really an option either, again, they are too big.
Some other things I won't consider are the new range of Chinese built SUV's, might consider a Korean, but probably not.

Anyone be able to give me some advice?
 
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My RS Focus has had a recall for the head gasket issue, it seems that someone stuffed up somewhere and they didn't really keep a good record of which head gasket was fitted to them.

The design of the engine, I believe is the same as the 2.3 found in the Mustang, but the casting materials for the block and the head are very different. Some Mustang head gaskets may have been fitted to the RS and they are a lower spec.

I believe that in the UK all head gaskets are being replaced on all cars built before a certain date. Here, the dealer is saying they will pressure test it, then decide what it needs, however I think that as they will have it for 3 to 5 days they'll do the gasket.

As an aside, a neighbour of mine has decided to sell his, the gasket issue will be looked at first, but he is prepared to take a $10,000 loss after only having it since September last year! He said he has bought a boat and doesn't use the RS to it's potential and it sits quite often in his driveway. Being a hoarder, I'm tempted, but Erika would shoot me!
 
I drive a 2017 BMW 420i Coupe, have had it for a few months and still get excited to drive it :p
 

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