Peek-a-boo; anyone there?
I’M BAAAAAACK!
Well, back as far as Khartoum.
We’ve just arrived back and checked into the hotel to freshen up before going to the Whirling Dervishes late this afternoon. All the others in the group depart late tonight but I have an extra day, departing Saturday evening.
Contrary to general expectations, reports of my violent or grisly demise in a hail of Kalashnikov bullets or by ritual beheading were exaggerated.
I have only seen one AK47 since setting foot in Sudan
- and that was held by a bored-looking guard at the National Museum on our first day, which turned out to be closed for a holiday for the prophet’s birthday. When we went there on our way back into Khartoum this morning as a substitute, there was no guard.
I did, however, see for the first time several of those Landcruiser tray-back utes with the pylon upon which a heavy machinegun is mounted
. Unfortunately I didn’t see the operator blasting away randomly into the distance like the setup shots the TV news crews get
. The operator was invariably looking extremely bored and peering at his mobile phone
.
Man, I want one of those babies - I could clear the outside lane of the freeway of slow drivers like you wouldn’t believe
. And fitted with a spotty, I’d be the envy of the outback club doing circle work before bowling over some vermin
.
All jokes aside, Sudan is a great place. Steeped in history, with cheerful and friendly people. It’s been a blast - and tourism is growing. So, like so many places, get in early before the hordes is my motto.
While it is a conservative country, it is not overtly repressive. Unlike Iran, women do not need to wear head covering - but covered shoulders is sensible and respectful. Shorts for men are OK but they look out of place in towns. I only wore them in the desert.
I did not see a single police officer wearing sidearms or carrying anything more than a stick.
Our group was 14 pax. But, get this: 10 women and 4 men. Two of the men were with SWMBO. Three of the women had wimpy husbands who either were afraid or didn’t want to camp, so they left those wusses home. All the pax were avid travellers. One of the couples take it in turns to choose a destination; Sudan was her choice. Two of the women who left wimpy home were specialist medico work colleagues from Lithuania who often travel together; the other was a Hungarian woman married to a Swiss man who left wimpy home and set out by herself. Age range was 25 to, ahem, 69. The millennial was a real outlier; the median age was probably just over 50.
Have to go to see the Whirling Dervishes; full transmission will resume after Sunday night following my EK B777 J ride KRT-DXB and A380 F ride DXB-PER and the slaking of a two-week thirst
.