The Castle

St Beatus-Hohlen

Arriving at St Beatus Caves you’re greeted by a sheer cliff face and waterfall.

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The stairs to the entrance are challenging.

There’s also a ramp for those who would prefer.

There’s just one cave for viewing and your admission includes an audio guide that you download onto your phone.

Free wifi is available.

St Beatus caves is one of only a few in the world to still have active waterways inside.

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During the spring, the caves often flood and in addition to depth markers, an alert system notifies staff if water begins to rise.

Areas where the water is still, provide some outstanding reflections.

This is Spoegel-Grotte (mirror grotto)

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Like most caves, there’s stone that looks like something else.

For instance, the Swiss Alps is not where you’d expect to see a crocodile.

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The water and lighting also means the cave has a small range of plants.

Mostly mosses, ferns and algae.

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Unlike caves in Australia where you’d be escorted by a guide, allowing people in unaccompanied means there’s damage to parts of the cave, including graffiti.

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This waterfall is the final feature of the cave before you turn to retrace your steps.

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Returning to the cave entrance you’re rewarded with great view over Lake Thun.

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Recommended for those visiting Interlaken.
 
Geissbachfalle (part 1)

Next morning we set off aboard a majestic looking ferry to explore the sights on lake to the east of Interlaken, Lake Brienz.

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We first sailed past clifftop holiday homes on the outskirts of Interlakenthat would have spectacular views no matter the season.

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On every tour there’s one person who just irritates everyone else.

On this day it was Mr Selfie Stick.

The only thing bigger than this giant prick, was the selfishness of the bloke holding it, as he dangled in in the way of other passengers photos.

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I could sense plenty of people would have been happy to see it go overboard.

The ferry called at several small towns but our planned stop was Geissbachfalle and the regal looking Grand Hotel Geissbach.

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We rode the funicular from the lake to the hotel from where it was a challenging twenty minute walk to the falls.

A graded path takes you either side of the waterfall.

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Both tracks lead to a steel bridge that allows you to walk behind the falls.

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From here you can also see back to the hotel and the Lake beyond.


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You can continue up the mountain, tracking the falls all the way to a small township.

We went as far as the abandoned hydro station before turning around.

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Geissbachfalle (part 2)

After viewing the falls we returned to Hotel Geissbach.

It has a terrace with a café and restaurant overlooking the falls.

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There’s also stunning views across lake Brienz.

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It was now late in the morning and plenty of people were checking out of the hotel.

I watched as the valet retrieved their cars: one Mercedes, two Porshe, a BMW, and a Ferrari.

I felt like a coffee but on a Corolla budget I was afraid to look at the menu.

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AUD9.50 for a coffee and AUD21 for a bowl of wedges.

Pass.

Instead, we headed back to the ferry terminal.

We skipped the funicular and opted to walk.


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We were rewarded with great views.

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The path took us over a bridge where the falls spill into Lake Brienz.

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Our timing was perfect… it was just a five minute wait until our ship came in – this time an old paddle steamer.

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But the smooth sailing of the day so far wasn't to last.
 
Geissbachfalle (part 2)

After viewing the falls we returned to Hotel Geissbach.

It has a terrace with a café and restaurant overlooking the falls.

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There’s also stunning views across lake Brienz.

View attachment 355478

It was now late in the morning and plenty of people were checking out of the hotel.

I watched as the valet retrieved their cars: one Mercedes, two Porshe, a BMW, and a Ferrari.

I felt like a coffee but on a Corolla budget I was afraid to look at the menu.

View attachment 355481

View attachment 355482

AUD9.50 for a coffee and AUD21 for a bowl of wedges.

Pass.

Instead, we headed back to the ferry terminal.

We skipped the funicular and opted to walk.


View attachment 355483

We were rewarded with great views.

View attachment 355484

The path took us over a bridge where the falls spill into Lake Brienz.

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Our timing was perfect… it was just a five minute wait until our ship came in – this time an old paddle steamer.

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But the smooth sailing of the day so far wasn't to last.
The ferry seems a tad overloaded but maybe just an optical illusion.
 
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On this day it was Mr Selfie Stick.
The insta crew and other influencers were annoying the hell out of us (and many other genuine tourists) around Europe last winter. I think I’ve reached the stage of grumpy old womanhood where I will start telling them to get out of the way and share nicely with others.
 
Steaming towards troubles waters

Departing Geissbachfall the steamer listed to the right as people scrambled to get a final photo of the falls cascading into the lake.

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The boat had an open view into the engine room allowing you to see the working parts of the steam engine driving the paddle wheel.

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As we cruised across the lake towards Brienz, the gentle rhythm of the pistons seemed a good metaphor for the rhythm we had settled into on our trip.

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It had been several days since any sort of family fracas.

Things were going well.

Too well.

As we stepped ashore in Brienz, so too did our holiday enemies: hunger and indecision.
 
Brienz

Brienz is a quaint tourist town at the eastern end of the lake with the same name.

On a Saturday, in the height of the European summer, it should have been bustling.

While the train station was crowded, elsewhere it was a ghost town.

With two hours until the next ferry and what seemed like very few options for food, I was beginning to worry.

It was only a matter of time until I was taking more fire than a clay pigeon at a target range.

I did my best to distract the family from their rumbling stomachs by pointing out things of interest, like the architecture, the mountains and the slightly gaunt looking novelty cow.

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The malnourished looking bovine only served to remind the family of their hunger.

As we headed through the village we came to a small supermarket.

The gardening products outside gave me hope it might be open.

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But the place was closed.

They were just very trusting that no one was going to steal plants or mulch over the weekend.

But after the chaos during covid, high-demand items like toilet rolls were locked up safely inside.

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The complaints of hunger were growing.

I offered to sell a kidney so we could afford to eat at an expensive looking rooftop restaurant with sweeping views over the lake.

This was ruled out due to the menu rather than any concern for my organs.

Also ruled out was a greasy looking burger van at the ferry terminal.

So, we set off on a walk up the hill towards the west in the hope that something appealing lay over the ridge.

Next we came to a packed bistro – a good sign I thought.

Despite claims that death by starvation was only moments away, the German inspired menu was rejected.

We then passed three pizza places in quick succession.

All were empty and after glancing at their prices it was easy to see why.

We were now a considerable distance from the centre of town, no closer to eating, and a long way from the ferry to salvation.

A tense standoff ended with Mrs H commencing a hunger strike and marching off to sit by the lake and wait for the next ferry.

This changed the decision-making equation.

All we needed to determine now was which pizza shop and what toppings. ;)

Returning to the lake armed with two pizzas brought the hunger strike to an abrupt end.

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Collapsible canvas chairs are provided by the local council and we spent an enjoyable hour watching the world go by.

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Having narrowly averted another disaster, we hopped back on the ferry towards Interlaken.

I quickly secured a table by the window and ordered a beer.

I had a chuckle to myself that the name of the beer so aptly summed up the two hours we spent in Brienz.

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Brienz

Brienz is a quaint tourist town at the eastern end of the lake with the same name.

On a Saturday, in the height of the European summer, it should have been bustling.

While the train station was crowded, elsewhere it was a ghost town.

With two hours until the next ferry and what seemed like very few options for food, I was beginning to worry.

It was only a matter of time until I was taking more fire than a clay pigeon at a target range.

I did my best to distract the family from their rumbling stomachs by pointing out things of interest, like the architecture, the mountains and the slightly gaunt looking novelty cow.

View attachment 357039

The malnourished looking bovine only served to remind the family of their hunger.

As we headed through the village we came to a small supermarket.

The gardening products outside gave me hope it might be open.

View attachment 357042

But the place was closed.

They were just very trusting that no one was going to steal plants or mulch over the weekend.

But after the chaos during covid, high-demand items like toilet rolls were locked up safely inside.

View attachment 357043

The complaints of hunger were growing.

I offered to sell a kidney so we could afford to eat at an expensive looking rooftop restaurant with sweeping views over the lake.

This was ruled out due to the menu rather than any concern for my organs.

Also ruled out was a greasy looking burger van at the ferry terminal.

So, we set off on a walk up the hill towards the west in the hope that something appealing lay over the ridge.

Next we came to a packed bistro – a good sign I thought.

Despite claims that death by starvation was only moments away, the German inspired menu was rejected.

We then passed three pizza places in quick succession.

All were empty and after glancing at their prices it was easy to see why.

We were now a considerable distance from the centre of town, no closer to eating, and a long way from the ferry to salvation.

A tense standoff ended with Mrs H commencing a hunger strike and marching off to sit by the lake and wait for the next ferry.

This changed the decision-making equation.

All we needed to determine now was which pizza shop and what toppings. ;)

Returning to the lake armed with two pizzas brought the hunger strike to an abrupt end.

View attachment 357040

Collapsible canvas chairs are provided by the local council and we spent an enjoyable hour watching the world go by.

View attachment 357045

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Having narrowly averted another disaster, we hopped back on the ferry towards Interlaken.

I quickly secured a table by the window and ordered a beer.

I had a chuckle to myself that the name of the beer so aptly summed up the two hours we spent in Brienz.

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Switzerland is wickedly expensive. Glad to have left it today.
 
Harder Kulm
Interlaken is set at the base of a mountain called Harder Kulm.

You can reach Harder Kulm directly from town via a steep cog railway.

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When boarding commenced there were about 40 people who boarded the funicular ahead of us and for a moment it looked like we’d have to wait for the next service.

But it turned out those ahead of us spoke neither German, nor English, because as we reached the turnstiles the staff member could clearly be heard encouraging people into the front cabin.

No one took up the offer so I headed straight to 1A and a seat beside our chatty driver.

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The line cuts through the mountain.

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From the top there’s expansive views across Interlaken in the valley below, both lakes and the Swiss Apls.

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The summit of Harder Kulm has a viewing deck, café, gift shop and restaurant.

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If you’re enthusiastic, and have plenty of time, you can walk in either direction.

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Just a couple of hundred metres from the Harder Bahn bottom station is AlpenwildPark Interlaken.

Despite the name it’s very small refuge and breeding centre for ibex.

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There’s also a small marmot display.
 
Big Thrill Walk

Next morning, we were up before dawn for the one day of our itinerary I had not told the family about.

We set of for Interlaken Ost (East) train station catching the sunrise on the way.

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We rode the mountain railway to Lauterbrunnen, then connected with a bus before finally transferring to a mountain cable car to begin the climb.

At Gimmelwald, we changed from one gondola to the next, eventually reaching the small village of Murren.

It’s a pretty town, busy in ski season, that offers a commanding view of the so called “top of Europe” Jungfraujoch (when not clouded over).

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We walked around Murren for around half an hour before concluding no coffee was available.

So we board another gondola and continued to climb.

Next stop was Birg.

It exists primarily as a ski base and gondola mid-station for those continuing further up the mountain.

But in recent years they’ve installed a thrill walk for the adventurous.

Cloud cover made it difficult to get perspective in my photos.

The image below from the Big Thrill Walk website shows the walk along the cliff face and gives a sense of the sheer drop below:

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On the day of our visit, thick cloud made the thrill walk particularly eery.

View from above the thill walk looking directly down:

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Both Miss H and me gave it a go.

Mrs H did not.

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The walk has several sections including the "tightrope" pictured above and a section of glass walkway suspended on the side of the cliff.

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As the cloud began to clear, the drop below came into view.

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The third section of the Thrill Walk is a grated metal walkway below which the drop to the jagged rocks is up to 100 metres.

There's also a grated section to the viewing deck for those who dare:

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They're currently duplicating the gondola, so the section with the rope tunnel was closed. :(

This is what we missed (photo credit: big thrill walk website)

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The Gondola up the mountain isn’t cheap, but once you arrive there's no additional charge for the thill walk.

But it's not for the feint of heart.

Take on the thrill walk if you dare!

And if that’s not scary enough, you could always join the construction crew duplicating the gondola.

The bloke operating this thing didn’t seem at all worried about the sheer cliff face just centimetres to his left.

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Schilthorn

After getting our thrills, we boarded our fourth gondola for the day and set off towards the next stop on the mystery day I'd planned for the girls.

We climbed beyond the cloud, eventually reaching 2,970 metres and the peak of Schilthorn.

It wasn't postcard perfect, but there were glimpses of sunshine showing of the stunning scenery of the Alps.

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There’s a large viewing terrace and walkways extend out the ridgeline.

The crane operator likely has the best view of all.

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Scraped bare by the almost year round cover of snow and ice, Schtilthorn at the height of summer looks like a moonscape.

Dark grey gravel with craters of residual snow.

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Schilthorn is also the location where parts the James Bond film “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” was shot.

There’s a museum with artefacts from the film and some excellent behind the scenes explainers.

At the top of Schilthorn is a revolving restaurant and the next part of the surprise was that I’d booked us a table for the buffet lunch.

On a clear day this would have been spectacular.

But even with plenty of cloud around we had great views of the Alps.

It was a fairly average buffet but included Italian sparking.

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For those keen to visit Schilthorn, the train from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen takes about 30 minutes.

It's another 15 minutes by bus to Gimmewald where you connect to the Schilthornbahn base station.

Here's the series of four cables cars/gondolas from there:
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I was disappointed we didn't get a clearer day for our visit, but the girls both enjoyed themselves.

But on the way back to Interlaken I had more surprises planned.
 

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