Third Time's a Charm - The Idiot Returns to Japan

Noel Mugavin · Apr 20, 2023

Early start and a long train ride ahead of me today. So early, it was a deserted Shin-Osaka

Bit of train spotting

My chariot arrived, the Ltd Exp Kuroshio

Journey started winding through Osaka, headed south through Wakayama Prefecture to get to Kiikatsuura.

Green hills and cherry blossoms were quite stunning, and of course my photos did not do the scenery justice

And it being Japan, there's always the quirky

Further down the track, the train hugs the coast and you get some stunning views. Alas, once again, my photography skills or lack thereof, fail to impress.

Noel Mugavin · Apr 21, 2023

After about 4 and a half hours, arrived at Kiikatsuura and what definitely wasn't on the plan, heavy rain.

Stayed in the station for about 20 minutes until the rain eased off, then headed out to a sleepy, slow Sunday afternoon in a small fishing port.

Noel Mugavin · Apr 21, 2023

Urashima Hotel, where I would be staying the next 2 nights. The hotel is situated on a peninsula, the hotel provides a boat front the port, with the service starting at 3.00pm. It was about 1.30, and not much going on in town wet, windy cold, really needed to find a way to get to the hotel.

Walked back to the bat pick up area, hoping for some sort of miracle. Tsunami Evacuation signs prevalent around the town.

Miracles do happen. Mini bus pulled up and a coupe of people with luggage got out. Asked the driver if he was from Hotel Urashima. Got the affirmative, asked if I could get a lift back and before you know it I was sitting in the hotel lobby happily putting away an egg sandwich fro the onsite Lawsons.
The hotel boat shuttle

I noticed people going up to the check in counter and spending a bit of time there, so I though I'd have a go at the holy grail in Japan and see if an early check-in exists.
Was looing fantastic as my passport was photcopied, signed and given my copies of the paperwork, told what room I would be in, given instructions about access to the onsens, and then the kicker - come back to the counter and pick your key up after 3.00pm.
Was only another 30 minutes, gathered my key, then up to the room

Noel Mugavin · Apr 21, 2023

The shuttle was up and running

Hotel Urashima boasts Japan's longest escalator. Hopped on and didn't think that wasn't all that long. Didn't realise there were 2 more

Viewing area at half way

To the top and there's a bit of a walkway to follow. Quite cold, wind and slippery

Noel Mugavin · Apr 21, 2023

Wkayama has a quite wild and rugged coastline, and had a good view of it from the top of the hill

As well as being wild and rugged it is also quite stunning

Dinner, then a soak in one of the cave onsen. By the time I got back to the room, my futon had been set up for me.

Noel Mugavin · Apr 22, 2023

Onsens are accessible from 5.00am, and I was down at the cave onsen at about 5 past. Only a coupe of other people in there, sun still wasn't up and the waves crash incredibly close to the opening of the cave. Bit of a wild and woolly day ahead.
Morning view form the room balcony

The reason I was at Katsuura was to get to Nachi Falls and Seiganto-ji, the inspiration taken form the Tokyo Lens you tube channel.
Off the island via the hotel shuttle, and the rain started coming down

Bus leaves adjacent to the train station and delivers you to Nachi Falls. That seemed a little too easy to me, so I took the route that makes you work for your reward. Jumped off at the start of the Daimonzaka walking trail, part of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage.
Low lying cloud in the hills, and once again, absolutely stunning.

Start of the 30 minute or so climb up cobblestone steps. Degree of difficulty a little increased with the light rain falling

Noel Mugavin · Apr 22, 2023

Not too many photos on the way up, my energies were all on ensuring I didn't fall on my backside.

Was quite serene, not too many others about on the climb, just me and the bloke in the blue jacket.
End of the trail, not the end of the stairs though

Quite a large complex of temples and shrines

This is what I had come for, however not quite the shot I wanted

Rain was a bit heavier now, so had to take a bit of shelter

Then off to try to find a position for the optimal photo.

Noel Mugavin · Apr 22, 2023

Better

Little bit of a hike down to the base of the falls. These steps took me an age. Not a pleasant experience at all. Another set of steps needed until the base of the falls, thankfully a rail provided for me to cling on to .

pyffii · Apr 22, 2023

stunning photos and well worth the walk down

Noel Mugavin · Apr 22, 2023

I still wasn't completely convinced I had found the right spot for the ideal shot of the shrine and waterfall, so found a quite spot and through the joys of technology re-watched the Tokyo Lens clip. I wasn't far off the spot I was after, but needed to get back u thee and take the snap.
N o stairs this time, followed the winding road back to the top.

Found the little landing off a block of units, and bingo!

Satisfied, time to walk down to the bust stop and get back to town. Deserted hotel on the way down.

Noel Mugavin · Apr 22, 2023

Back to Katsuura early afternoon, and the shopping street was not quite buzzing.

found myself a little diner and had a very nice yakiniku

small place, just the owner and there and an obachan at the counter. She started talking to me in Japanese, had to give her the Nihingo Wakaramaesen. She lost interest, turned back to the counter and proceeded to light up a durrie. Not quite what I wanted while eating.

Went for a bit of a wander through the town and to the coast behind a hill at the northern end of the town

Able to get a view of Nachi Falls

More of the coastline

Back to town, to eventually get back to the hotel

Afternoon Kuroshio heading back to Osaka.
Nachi Falls is well worth visiting and is possible to do in 1 day to and from Osaka, but would be one hell of a long day.

Noel Mugavin · Apr 22, 2023

Weather had cleared up a bit and the town looked a light lighter and more lively

Headed down to the port and had a walk through of the shops down there

Replica of the biggest tuna brought in to port

Don't litter and don't get too close to the edge

Tourist boat

Lazy afternoon back at the hotel, onsen, dinner, onsen and enjoying the harbour views

RB · Apr 23, 2023

Really enjoying another report by you. I like your style of travel

Noel Mugavin · Apr 23, 2023

Early morning cave onsen, breakfast, bit of harbour gazing, then an earliesh checkout

Ended up being a private shuttle run

One last look at the hotel

A straggling tuna boat coming in

Had a bit of time for a final wander around the town before the train arrived.
Got to love the Japanese rubbish collection truck that plays Mr Whippy like tunes as he does his rounds

I'd noticed some cars with the Spaceone logo on them, and some business looking types coming in and out of this building the day before. Seemed very out of place for a sleepy fishing port. Turns out it's a start up space exploration company.

My first visit to Japan 7 years ago I was impressed that the Toyota Crown was still going strong.
Nothing's changed.

On to the Ltd Exp Nanki, just under 5 hours to Nagoya. Had reserved a seat the day prior, was only 2 seats available and was on an aisle. Not ideal, so I jumped on the unreserved carriage and nabbed myself a window seat. Only about 10 others in there, quite obviously hikers with their walking sticks and trangia's hanging from their packs.
Bit worried about a scene when my ticket was inspected, however not an issue when ticket was checked. Did however have to fork over an extra 1100yen, as a part of the line on the way to Nagoya is a non JR line

NoName · Apr 23, 2023

Noel Mugavin said:
My first visit to Japan 7 years ago I was impressed that the Toyota Crown was still going strong.
Nothing's changed.

My first car in around 1999 was a Toyota Crown. A 1973 model handed down from my aunt. It was an absolute tank!

Noel Mugavin · Apr 23, 2023

Beautiful scenery along the Wakayama Coast

Noel Mugavin · Apr 23, 2023

15 or so minute wait until I was able to get on a shinkansen. Only about 3 people in the carriage, and someone decided to make a very welcome appearance.

It really is mesmerizing

A couple of flowers hanging on along Sakura Dori

Smile Nihonbashi, selected simply for it's price and proximity to Tokyo Station

Noel Mugavin · Apr 23, 2023

Visited Nihonbashi, which was sort of ruined by the expressway being built over the top of it for the 64 Olympics.

Good news is, part of the expressway is going underground, so Nihonbashi will be back to its former glory. By 2041.
Work already started

More wandering, then yakitori at Tokyo Station

Visited Ebisu Garden Place Tower for views and photos, which didn't really work out. Then battled the crowds on the Yamanote Line back to Tokyo Station and back to the hotel.

Noel Mugavin · Apr 23, 2023

Goodbye to the Smile Hotel

Found the luggage forwarding counter and sent my bag on to Sendai. Would catch up with that tomorrow.
In the meantime, enough time to get out to the Marunouchi side and get some snaps

Thers'e my next train the Tsubasa on the Yamagata Shinkansen Line. I walked up the side of the train looking for the unreserved carriage, as I hadn't bothered to reserve a seat. No unreserved carriages. Had a plan, would be last on sit in a spare seat, and get up at every stop and grab another spare when everyone sat down. Worked to Ueno, then between there and Saitama a ticket inspector came through. Looked at my JR pass, asked for my reserved seat, told him I didn't have one. He looked at his little gadget for a minute or so, then told me I was sweet to stay in the seat I was in.

First stop for the day, and I was going to feast on cow.

Yonezawa Beef. No particular restaurant in ind, was going to wander and go with my gut feeling, so to speak.
Initial impression, quite a compact, quiet and clean town.