Trains, onsen....more trains, more onsen! Might have taken some flights too...

[drron]

And the chicken karaage, katsus and Tempura are all fried in oil which may have been used for fish previously unless the restaurant has no seafood on the menu.
Also don't believe everything Google translates tells you about a menu only in Japanese. Tonight I ordered a soba with Fried oysters using Google translate and got a soba and fried chicken.. Google also thought you could get soba with fox or raccoon.

 

[rbjhan]

And the chicken karaage, katsus and Tempura are all fried in oil which may have been used for fish previously unless the restaurant has no seafood on the menu.
Also don't believe everything Google translates tells you about a menu only in Japanese. Tonight I ordered a soba with Fried oysters using Google translate and got a soba and fried chicken.. Google also thought you could get soba with fox or raccoon.

Why I think best way is going to restaurant specialised in one thing.
Rikyu = gyutan, simple!

 

[rbjhan]

I'm curious now, oyster is just kaki, it doesn't sound or read like tori...?

 

[drron]

I'm curious now, oyster is just kaki, it doesn't sound or read like tori...?

And chicken is one of the few written words I remember and it definitely wasn't there. i just blame google.

 

[rbjhan]

And chicken is one of the few written words I remember and it definitely wasn't there. i just blame google.

Mind you, I have seen chicken written as チキン...

 

[randompunter]

Thank you all for following this TR! How many knew where Matsuyama was before?

I'm going again May 2024, probably to Nagano/Gifu Prefecture, until then...

Thanks for a great TR. I also rate Shikoku, particularly at the moment when Japan seems overrun with tourists. Yep I see the hypocrisy in that we are those tourists! But driving across Shikoku recently, we felt we had breathing room and the scenery was spectacular. Highly recommend driving the UFO line up Mt Ishizuchi although the roads are very narrow in places.

There are also plenty of fun trains for the aspiring Densha Otaku. We traversed the Yodo line (Shimanto Valley) on the slowest "Shinkansen" in Japan, the Tetsudo Hobby Train. It even had two rows of seats from a 1960s 0-Series Shinkansen.

Over on Kyushu - (we got the same ferry you did from Yawatahama ) we also finally got to ride Aso Boy! from Beppu to Aso and our almost-2 year old absolutely loved it! I looked into it a few years back pre-kids but glad I held off as it was pretty fun watching her explore the train.

You also mentioned the Aru Ressha train in your wish list earlier; we managed to get tickets for that last time and wow I think it was probably the highlight of that trip ($$$$ though @ $600+ for 2 pax for just a couple of hours but the train, food and drinks were phenomenal).

Testudo Hobby Train and the Shiman Torocco:


Aso Boy!:

 

[drron]

Mind you, I have seen chicken written as チキン...

Yes but that was also not there on the menu.

Anyway thanks for the TR. I also really love Japan and if I was younger and single do what you are doing though less onsens.
I am more for just walking around places even if it is not of interest to your normal tourists or the Instagramer brigade.

In fact one of the reasons I fell in love with Japan was on our first visit in 1981. We took our 7 year old son and Mrsdrron's mother on that trip. In Hakone both Mrsdrron and her mother got quite sick with a respiratory infection. So I took my son on the local train to the end of the line. We both love trains. We then walked around the little village where in those days none had even a single word of English. But with sign language and drawing pictures we managed to find out a bit and ended up being invited to lunch by an old couple. Just an amazing experience.

 

[rbjhan]

Thanks for a great TR. I also rate Shikoku, particularly at the moment when Japan seems overrun with tourists. Yep I see the hypocrisy in that we are those tourists! But driving across Shikoku recently, we felt we had breathing room and the scenery was spectacular. Highly recommend driving the UFO line up Mt Ishizuchi although the roads are very narrow in places.

There are also plenty of fun trains for the aspiring Densha Otaku. We traversed the Yodo line (Shimanto Valley) on the slowest "Shinkansen" in Japan, the Tetsudo Hobby Train. It even had two rows of seats from a 1960s 0-Series Shinkansen.

Over on Kyushu - (we got the same ferry you did from Yawatahama ) we also finally got to ride Aso Boy! from Beppu to Aso and our almost-2 year old absolutely loved it! I looked into it a few years back pre-kids but glad I held off as it was pretty fun watching her explore the train.

You also mentioned the Aru Ressha train in your wish list earlier; we managed to get tickets for that last time and wow I think it was probably the highlight of that trip ($$$$ though @ $600+ for 2 pax for just a couple of hours but the train, food and drinks were phenomenal).

Testudo Hobby Train and the Shiman Torocco:
View attachment 358259

Aso Boy!:
View attachment 358260View attachment 358261
View attachment 358262

I demand pictures of Aru Ressha!!
In fact I booked Aso Boy! when I couldn't get Kawasemi Yamasemi, obviously cancelled it since the latter became available.

Yeah the main motivation to go to Shikoku was the insane crowds earlier this year in Kyoto and Kanazawa during Sakura season. I love Kyoto but from now on it's strictly a low season destination only (helps that I've already done it in Sakura/Momiji season )

Personally, I think there are many places all over Japan that are great during Sakura, but somehow only Kyoto does it for me re Momiji....something about all the temples and shrines in Kyoto is just special when the leaves turn....

 

[Seat0B]

. I love Kyoto but from now on it's strictly a low season destination

Not sure even then is good in Kyoto any more. We were there in mid-Feb this year and it was really crowded and not much fun. Kanazawa was not as bad but still not really enjoyable at some bus stops!

 

[rbjhan]

Not sure even then is good in Kyoto any more. We were there in mid-Feb this year and it was really crowded and not much fun. Kanazawa was not as bad but still not really enjoyable at some bus stops!

I'm not going next year.
So hopefully by 2025 things will calm down a bit...

 

[docjames]

Thanks for a great TR.

 

[randompunter]

I demand pictures of Aru Ressha!!

Haha sure - I have dug some out of the archive. Our route was from Nagasaki to Sasebo, we then rode a local train back. It's interesting see the old Nagasaki station in the pic below, we went back there last month and I didn't recognise the place - a huge modern elevated Shinkansen station now looms large over that part of the city.

Note - these were the "cheap" seats, the other carriage had private cabins and was much darker in tone. I didn't take any snaps because they had guests in them. Funny though, we were the only pax in our carriage which I guess made it private anyway ?





Our waitress challenged us to find a 7-leaf clover on the ceiling:


Menu -they do well at highlighting seasonal flavours from across Kyushu. I was told they prepared this English translation just for us but may have misunderstood the attendant. Although at the time I think very few foreigners rode this train.



Some of the food:









Toilet :

 

[rbjhan]

Haha sure - I have dug some out of the archive. Our route was from Nagasaki to Sasebo, we then rode a local train back. It's interesting see the old Nagasaki station in the pic below, we went back there last month and I didn't recognise the place - a huge modern elevated Shinkansen station now looms large over that part of the city.

Note - these were the "cheap" seats, the other carriage had private cabins and was much darker in tone. I didn't take any snaps because they had guests in them. Funny though, we were the only pax in our carriage which I guess made it private anyway ?


View attachment 359127
View attachment 359128

Our waitress challenged us to find a 7-leaf clover on the ceiling:
View attachment 359136

Menu -they do well at highlighting seasonal flavours from across Kyushu. I was told they prepared this English translation just for us but may have misunderstood the attendant. Although at the time I think very few foreigners rode this train.

View attachment 359129

Some of the food:
View attachment 359137

View attachment 359138
View attachment 359132

View attachment 359139

View attachment 359140

Toilet :
View attachment 359141

Thank you!
Must be a wonderful ride....I'm jealous!
How did you book it btw?

Yeah I noticed also how the Takeo Onsen Station building was shinning...all for the Nishi Kyushu Shinkansen which takes you nowhere
36+3 used to go to Nagasaki as well, but since the opening of the new Shinkansen they changed to Sasebo and added the return trip. Good for me!
Aruressha nowadays runs between Hakata & Yufuin iirc.

 

[randompunter]

Thank you!
Must be a wonderful ride....I'm jealous!
How did you book it btw?

Yeah I noticed also how the Takeo Onsen Station building was shinning...all for the Nishi Kyushu Shinkansen which takes you nowhere
36+3 used to go to Nagasaki as well, but since the opening of the new Shinkansen they changed to Sasebo and added the return trip. Good for me!
Aruressha nowadays runs between Hakata & Yufuin iirc.

I remember that it was quite hard to book from Australia, they took phone bookings only and even with google translate we couldn't make it work. I ended up somehow emailing through a credit card authorisation that I made up and translated, which wasn't terribly secure so a bit risky but they ended up processing it.

Your awesome TR also reminded me that we too went on the Kawasemi Yamasemi, but back then it was running between Kumamoto and Hitoyoshi.

There was also this funny bunch of guys who clearly enjoyed their time on the Kawasemi Yamasemi. Perhaps they were just locals on their regular commute?:



We tried to take another D&S train called the Isaburo from Hitoyoshi to Yoshimatsu but ended up missing that one. Well actually we missed an earlier Kawsemi Yamasemi that would have connected to it but never mind, we just rode the same line anyway in a local one-man densha and it turned out to be a private ride through the mountains with some excellent scenery. Was fun watching the driver run back and forth to do the zig zag section around Okoba station.

Local train at Yoshimatsu:






A couple more local trains later we were in Kagoshima. Our train adventures didn't end there though, the next day we headed south, as far south as you can go on a train in Japan, to do a hike up the dormant Kaimondake volcano. Unfortunately the D&S Ibusuki no Tamatebako with the dragon steam feature didn't fit our schedule so we rode an early morning local train to Ibusuki then caught a bus to Kaimondake. The bus broke down halfway and a replacement bus was brought out to us along with the manager of the bus company who delivered an apology speech replete with many deep bows. The driver also refused to accept our money when we got off . We caught a local train back to Ibusuki from Kaimon station after the hike and it seemed to be mainly school kids riding it. Kaimon station gave me some strong Miyazaki vibes:





Kaimondake from the trainline:


Kaimondake summit view:

 

[rbjhan]

I remember that it was quite hard to book from Australia, they took phone bookings only and even with google translate we couldn't make it work. I ended up somehow emailing through a credit card authorisation that I made up and translated, which wasn't terribly secure so a bit risky but they ended up processing it.

Your awesome TR also reminded me that we too went on the Kawasemi Yamasemi, but back then it was running between Kumamoto and Hitoyoshi.

There was also this funny bunch of guys who clearly enjoyed their time on the Kawasemi Yamasemi. Perhaps they were just locals on their regular commute?:
View attachment 359155


We tried to take another D&S train called the Isaburo from Hitoyoshi to Yoshimatsu but ended up missing that one. Well actually we missed an earlier Kawsemi Yamasemi that would have connected to it but never mind, we just rode the same line anyway in a local one-man densha and it turned out to be a private ride through the mountains with some excellent scenery. Was fun watching the driver run and back and forth to do the zig zag section around Okoba station.

Local train at Yoshimatsu:

View attachment 359156

View attachment 359157


A couple more local trains later we were in Kagoshima. Our train adventures didn't end there though, the next day we headed south, as far south as you can go on a train in Japan, to do a hike up the dormant Kaimondake volcano. Unfortunately the D&S Ibusuki no Tamatebako with the dragon steam feature didn't fit our schedule so we rode an early morning local train to Ibusuki then caught a bus to Kaimondake. The bus broke down halfway and a replacement bus was brought out to us along with the manager of the bus company who delivered an apology speech replete with many deep bows. The driver also refused to accept our money when we got off . We caught a local train back to Ibusuki from Kaimon station after the hike and it seemed to be mainly school kids riding it. Kaimon station gave me some strong Miyazaki vibes:

View attachment 359160
View attachment 359158
View attachment 359161

Kaimondake from the trainline:
View attachment 359162

Kaimondake summit view:
View attachment 359163

Yeah Kawasemi Yamasemi used to run 3 round trips per day everyday between Kumamoto and Hitoyoshi which would not be difficult to book at all...
Then the train tracks got damaged near Hitoyoshi and this crazy schedule of weekends and holidays only one round trip per day!

I just checked Aruressha website, you can search for availabilities online:


Click that thing and it went straight to JTB...can make the reservation online though, by the looks of it.


COVID I think changed a lot of things. Previously Sunrise Seto/Izumo also needed to be booked at the ticket office...

Just looking at train interior I think I still prefer 36+3, but Aruressha is more about the food as I understand.

 

[Seat0B]

@rbjhan have you been to the Takegawara onsen in Beppu? I just found out that the Beppu Beach Sand Bath has permanently closed (since April 2023) and so the next suggestion was the sand bath at Takegawara onsen - but it has very very mixed reviews.

 

[rbjhan]

@rbjhan have you been to the Takegawara onsen in Beppu? I just found out that the Beppu Beach Sand Bath has permanently closed (since April 2023) and so the next suggestion was the sand bath at Takegawara onsen - but it has very very mixed reviews.

Nope. Did the sand bath at the now closed location.

Maybe try this one instead?

砂湯のご案内｜源泉100%かけ流しの「ひょうたん温泉」

別府温泉を代表するひょうたん温泉は別府鉄輪にある源泉100%かけ流しの日帰り温泉です。砂湯は温泉の蒸気を利用しているため、一般的な砂湯よりも穏やかな温度を保っていますのでより長い時間砂湯をお楽しみいただけます。

www.hyotan-onsen.com

Edit, what's wrong in the reviews?

 

[Seat0B]

Nope. Did the sand bath at the now closed location.

Maybe try this one instead?

砂湯のご案内｜源泉100%かけ流しの「ひょうたん温泉」

別府温泉を代表するひょうたん温泉は別府鉄輪にある源泉100%かけ流しの日帰り温泉です。砂湯は温泉の蒸気を利用しているため、一般的な砂湯よりも穏やかな温度を保っていますのでより長い時間砂湯をお楽しみいただけます。

www.hyotan-onsen.com

thanks! the Hyotan does look better and has better reviews

 

[Seat0B]

A few people saying staff were rude, the water was very dirty and there were long lines - and there are no recent reviews to speak of - most recent was in 2021, and before that 2019. I know COVID probably kept people away, but I am surprised that there are no reviews at all for 2022 and 2023 - which is why I thought to ask you if you went there

 

[rbjhan]

A few people saying staff were rude, the water was very dirty and there were long lines - and there are no recent reviews to speak of - most recent was in 2021, and before that 2019. I know COVID probably kept people away, but I am surprised that there are no reviews at all for 2022 and 2023 - which is why I thought to ask you if you went there

View attachment 364562View attachment 364563View attachment 364564

Yikes!
That sounds like "avoid at all cost" kinda place.

There is this thing with Beppu though, and similarly very established onsen towns (Gero, Arima, etc). During the bubble period lots of facilities were built but over the years declined, since corporates are not paying for extravagant staff travel any more. Townscape can also be of questionable taste...

Not saying you shouldn't go to an older onsen town, but just be careful with ryokans and such. Look for new or at least refurbished ones. I liked the one I stayed in Gero, for example.

Nearby Yufuin and Kurokawa onsen are more trendy, but I certainly think Yufuin is way overrun by tourists. And natural onsen water wise Beppu is much higher quality. No.1 in terms of volume in Japan, which means you are less likely to get hot water mixed in the bath, or recycled/ heated onsen water.

My favourite is still Kurokawa.