Trains, onsen....more trains, more onsen! Might have taken some flights too...

[rbjhan]

Next to Ritsurin Garden, there's another famous udon place 上原屋本店 Ueharaya, it was not opened on Sunday, but perfect for my Monday lunch.

A small queue, compared to the one yesterday this was nothing!


This is a self serve place. Meaning you pick whatever tempura and oden you want, then ordered the udon - you would get a serve of cold noodle in the bowl, pay at the counter first, then turn around to heat up the noodle, pour in soup, add condiments, and voila!



There are also normal restaurant type too, if you think the self serve thing is a bit too much....

 

[rbjhan]

Enjoying your report immensely, rbjhan.
Have you lived in Japan previously?

Nope. But I have been 13 times

 

[pagingjoan]

Nope. But I have been 13 times

Amazing!
I will have to lift my game.
Only three visits for me - and the first and the last were separated by 50 years!

 

[rbjhan]

Amazing!
I will have to lift my game.
Only three visits for me - and the first and the last were separated by 50 years!

What was Japan like 50 years ago? Now that I would like to know!

 

[trendwhore]

What was Japan like 50 years ago? Now that I would like to know!

No Google translate that's for sure

 

[rbjhan]

After lunch, went back to JR Takamatsu station area.
This is the ferry terminal where you can visit all the islands... Naoshima, Teshima, Shodoshima, etc...


There's an open air observation deck on level 8 of Symbol Tower building.


Time to go to Matsuyama!
Well this train was nothing special. But don't worry, many special ones to come


Some great views....if only they managed to clean the window!

 

[rbjhan]

No Google translate that's for sure

Nowadays I can speak a little Japanese which helped a lot once you get out of the Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka Tokaido Road.
But yes without translate things can be...complicated.

 

[rbjhan]

Matsuyama is actually Shikoku's largest city, pushing Takamatsu to 2nd place.
The city's layout is a bit unusual though...normally when travelling to smaller cities I prefer to stay near the JR station area as that would be most convenient not just for train travel but also shops, restaurants etc.
JR Matsuyama however looked a bit dead....at least judging by number of hotels on IKYU when I tried to book.
Seemed like the area to be is either Okaido near Matsuyama Castle or Dogo onsen.
I picked Dogo onsen because, hey that's the whole reason I came here!

Surrounding Dogo onsen there are hundreds of Ryokans and hotels, chose Dogo Hakuro because
1) It's a hotel not ryokan, my ryokan budget was for another place this time. Plus I don't like city ryokans in general...you want to be out and about in cities...
2) It's very new.
3) Reviews on IKYU was very good.


Well I learned occasionally IKYU reviews can be unreliable too!
I mean, does this room looks 15 m2 to you?! (keep in mind I used a super wide angle)
holy cough there wasn't any space for me to open the case! I had to do it on the doorway
I'd say 12 m2 tops...



Then I wanted to do some laundry, well there were only 2 of those washer/dryer combo machines. If you have used them you would know they need like 3 hours for one run! Naturally both were unavailable since I arrived a bit late....staff drew a map for me to the nearest coin laundry...

So yeah, this one do not recommend. Luckily it was only one of two this whole trip!

 

[rbjhan]

Not sure exactly when it started but I've been wanting to visit Dogo onsen since like forever...
But Shikoku is, complicated.
Then in 2019 the Dogo Onsen HonKan started renovationApparetnly it needs SIX YEARS.

So yeah the HonKan looked like this when I visited. There's been some debate about whether Dogo onsen or Ginzan onsen was the inspiration of "Spirited Away" but right now methinks Ginzan wins by default



Well it is still partially opened - you can see some people lining up at the side entrance in the picture.
But only one of the bath is opened and none of the lounge areas.
I decided to try their secondary bath Asuka no Yu first.


So there are 4 tiers of tickets in Asuka no Yu.
Lowest price is 610 Yen, you can visit the bath, nothing else.
1280 Yen, you can have a rest (up to 90 mins) in a big open space on 2nd floor, with tea and cakes, yukata included.


1690 Yen, you get a private room on 2nd floor.
There's also the most expensive option of a private bath but that one needs advance reservation so I didn't check the price...

I chose the private room (not private bath!).
I know it sounds confusing but it was simple coz there were many bath attendants working and they will lead you every step along the way.
So I bought the ticket, took off shoes, then someone pointed me upstairs - tickets were different so they knew exactly what you paid for!

2nd floor landing area someone else came forward, led me to this beautiful room (actually she showed me all 4 available rooms and I chose this one). Those wall decorations were Imabari towels.


She brought me yukata and explain how everything works (don't worry, there's a whole page laminated A4 double sided detail instructions in English).

Then I changed into the yukata in this room and went downstairs to the bath.
Towels were strictly BYO though. Hotels all provided little baskets with towels and soap for their guests to take to Dogo onsen! Free marketing for them obviously...




Onsen picture from their website.


Also from their website:


The tea cup is, interesting...


There's a balcony. Can see people coming and going on the street.



Notice some wearing yukata?
Yeah that's another thing about the Japanese I don't understand.
Normally they have on at least one more layer than me (more like two) and prefer to set aircon at 25C.

But that night it was so cold, something like 6C iirc. I was wearing puffer jacket and hiking boots but all these people in yukata and slippers, how??! As if they suddenly turn on a cheat code or something putting on the yukata...

 

[cosi]

What was Japan like 50 years ago? Now that I would like to know!

Very, very different.

 

[pagingjoan]

What was Japan like 50 years ago? Now that I would like to know!

I had been travelling in Europe and North America for more than a year, and was on a ship from west coast, USA, via Hawaii and Japan, back to Australia. The ship had three ports of call in Japan, but I left at the first port (Tokyo) and travelled independently overland for about a week, as I recall, and then rejoined for the final leg back to Oz.

By chance, I was in Osaka for the opening of Expo. An amazing experience, as it seemed as if my friend and I were the only non-Japanese on site. It can’t have been the case, I’m sure - but over the day we were there, we saw no others. Then again, we were constantly surrounded by mobs of locals wanting to photograph us, or to be photographed with us! The mini skirts may have added to the spectacle!

 

[craven morehead]

Yes, it's me again. The one who goes to Japan every year
Things got moving when I found some amazing availability on QF29/30 back in February. I had no idea why...looking back it must be when the flights were restarted and loaded back to system?
Anyways, got my tickets to HKG sorted. Then I slept on it.... coz I went to Japan in March ha ha.
Came back early April, found a CX flight to NRT, booked via Avios. But then I was busy dealing with other things, moving house etc...crazy busy until August.
Couldn't wait any longer as I really need to finalise everything! Google flights said there was an EVA Air cash ticket from cough to HKG via TPE, great!
So the trip now looks like this

View attachment 355761

I was still traumatised by the huge crowds in Kyoto/Kanazawa this spring, so I decided to go somewhere a little quieter this time.
3 days in Tokyo, then Takamatsu, Matsuyama, Yufuin, Kurokawa Onsen, Kumamoto, Fukuoka.
If you need Google maps to know where they are, great, coz that's the idea!

I know these are not the places instantly come to mind when we heard "Japan", but they are equally fun and maybe more so, at least you don't have to queue for everything!

Who would've thought, Japan again lol

 

[rbjhan]

Who would've thought, Japan again lol

Yes and I've already booked the next one

 

[rbjhan]

Where were we? Ah yes I had my first dip inside Dogo onsen, not the last, don't worry!

Time for dinner though...
You just need 5 mins around Dogo onsen or Matsuyama in general to know what the local delicacy is, Taimeshi 鯛めし! Every single restaurant was advertising it...

Would be rude not to try it I guess?
Tai is sea bream, meshi basically means rice...
So there you go, fish on rice!
* This was the Uwajima style, meaning raw fish. You can also order the Matsuyama style which is cooked and served whole - mentioning it in case anyone doesn't want to see the fish head...



Also had some shellfish sashimi - don't ask, I liked them.

 

[rbjhan]

After dinner I walked around a bit.
Found anther vantage point


Oh and they sold out the men's bath in the HonKan!


That's the plan, for 2025 I guess?

 

[rbjhan]

Up early the next moring.
At least the view from my room was good.


Breakfast okay.


Went to Dogo Onsen HonKan this time.


Cost was 460 Yen but what you get was entrance to the bath only. Because they provided nothing. No towel, toiletries....everything cost money! ( so basically treat it as a sento)

Hmm very curious according to their website it was Tama no Yu currently open, but pictures of Tama no Yu didn't match what I saw...


TBF pics of Kami no Yu didn't match either!
My best guess is the reno changed the bath?!


Anyways, the one I went to was very nice! Lack of shampoo notwithstanding....
I can see the appeal.

Edit, forgot to say, Dogo onsen is one of the oldest in Japan, 1000 years of history!

 

[rbjhan]

Apart from Taimeshi, another thing you see everywhere in Matsuyama is Mikan Juice. Is it mandarin or tangerine? I'm not 100% sure.

Found this shop selling mikan juice, for 770 Yen you get 3 empty cups and are free to choose from many different types of juice, even with English info!



100% delicious

 

[rbjhan]

Full of juice , off to Matsuyama Castle.

This is another of the 12 original castles...my tally is at 6 now.


Chair lift or ropeway to go up, walking is also possible ofc!
My ankle was not good so I paid the 520 Yen for ropeway. Same price for chair lift.


Ah but I was never go to do the chair lift....scary!


The Castle!


And Yoshiaki-kun


I have seen better mascots, tbh...

 

[rbjhan]

Like all other original castles, there were some serious climbing inside...
But you will be rewarded with excellent views!




Of the sea


And city


Dogo onsen is somewhere hidden in this one...

 

[rbjhan]

Okaido is the main shopping area of Matsuyama.


These kinds of covered shopping arcades are so popular in Japan...not sure why but I'm not exactly a fan...maybe I just like to see the sky?

Anyways found a Sukiya for lunch. I need a break from Taimeshi


Btw there's a good tram network in Matsuyama, a bit old fashioned and don't take national IC cards. But they do have money exchange onboard!




I have seen people recommend the one day tram ticket, but at 800 Yen you need 4 trips to break even...not sure about that....I only made 4 trips in 2 days.