Twice around the world in 40 days

[RooFlyer]

Picked up the next morning by Patel and my guide for two days, Ali. I'm using Heritage India tours, on a recommendation from @RB here on AFF . Today's site is the Ajanta caves, only 100km away, but its a two hour drive due to the excruciating Indian traffic - endless lumbering trucks and annoying scooters and passing opportunities few and far between. About 10 mins away from the site, we pull over to a café, for a toilet stop and tea - neither of which I wanted/needed, but the guide had a cuppa. At least we weren't staying here (the café was a lot better )



Soon afterwards we descended into a valley and the Visitors Centre came into view - not that we'd see any of it.



First surprise - I was up for admission (abt A$30). I thought it was included in the tour fee (which I hadn't paid yet), but no matter. Buy ticket, then second surprise. We go to the "eco busses" - yes, that's what they are called - but no 'conductor' to take tickets. I ask how long and the answer is "don't know". That's a worry, as the answer in these circumstances is usually "soon". After 15 mins a guy appears, then there is an extended discussion between him and the driver. Engine started and conks out several times. Its +40 and bloody hot on the stationery bus. They can't get the air con to work. How long is the trip? 5-10 mins. Lets just bloody go!

The bus is filthy, and close to a wreck on wheels. Apparently UNESCO insist on "eco transport" on their world heritage sites, so its called an "eco bus".



Arrival at the site, more buildings (café, loos etc). A walk of 10 mins to the caves either by steps, up ramps or, ITKWYA, by sedan chair.

 

[RooFlyer]

The site consists of about 30 'caves' or excavations by Buddhists between 200BC and 500AD. Unlike Petra (sandstone) and the troglodyte caves in Iran (volcanic tuff), these were cut into solid, hard basalt. The amount of work, and the precision of the excavations is staggering, and I cannot do them justice here. The caves line the outside of a bend in a river.



Although noted by some travellers through the centuries, they were 'discovered' in the modern era by a British army officer, John Smith in 1819 while on a tiger hunt. In the wet, they are festooned by green growth, and he just managed to spot one of the openings, and went to investigate.

This is Cave 1, 5th century AD, 25 x 26 m in dimensions, and is a 'monastery' - that is, it was a place than Buddhist monks lived, worked and prayed. there are small 'cells' off the edges of the main space where they slept. Remember, everything you see here and in later chapters is carved from the outside in, in solid basalt.





One of the main features of the Ajanta site is the magnificent paintings and column ornamentation. Unfortunately the caves are, naturally, dark inside and very poorly lit to preserve the paintings, so my Sony struggled. My iPhone performed maybe a little better, but the results were a little disappointing. A tripod or even a monopod would be a good idea here.



Lots of sensual imagery ...

 

[RooFlyer]

Each 'cave' is a bit different and have different characteristics, but maybe the detail is not needed here (is that a sigh of relief I hear ?). So just images from around them. The main thing to recall is that everything you see is carved from the solid rock, and the excavations and paintings date from the 2nd century BC to the 6th AD.

Oh, just a comment here and there, then. Many columns and some of the painting borders have Greek influences, dating from when Alexander the Great was in India (300's BC), according to my guide . Alexander was only ever in NW India, and only for about 10 years but I guess the influence was there.

 

[RooFlyer]

This is 'Cave 9', excavated in the 1st century BC. While most of the caves are 'monasteries, with a central open space and 'cells' for the monks around its perimeter, this is one of several 'cathedrals' / places of worship or chaityagriha. The paintings date from the 1st C BC (but are very poorly illuminated and almost impossible to photograph) and the 5th C AD. All of the 'caves' have either wire mesh or this Perspex at the openings to keep bats out.



Being a Buddhist place of worship, there is a stupa. Along the roof of this cave there were originally superfluous wooden beams, as the whole set-up mimicked normal 'built' architecture. Other caves we'll see did away with the wooden false-beams with carved stone ones.

 

[RooFlyer]

Elephants, of course



The 'cobra prince' appears a number of times at this site and at Ellora (tomorrow).








In the next painting, and others, you can see different races portrayed. Light skinned, dark skinned (all various shades) and a Chinese gent.

 

[RooFlyer]

Again, look at the equal treatment of the races; the society was quite cosmopolitan. Ceilings also richly decorated. Of course, in the 'caves' it was quite dark. The paintings are done on dry plaster, and so are murales, not frescos.



From this site: The Ajanta Cave Paintings « The Global Dispatches

The Ajanta wall paintings are famous for their masterful line-work, the use of natural pigments, the artistry achieved with only primitive tools, the sensual forms, and the harmony of the overall composition. The end result, we must remember, would have been viewed in semi-darkness with perhaps just some weak oil lamps to help make out the figures. These masterpieces at Ajanta were executed more or less in two phases. An initial phase is made up primarily of the fragments in caves 9 & 10, from the second century B.C.

The second phase of paintings started around V and VI centuries A.D. and continued for the next two centuries. There appear to have been a multitude of artists at work and both the style and quality are varied. It is in this second phase that we find the depictions of the jataka – the stories that recount the lives of Buddha. Renowned worldwide for their exquisite beauty, the various Bodhisattvas depicted in Cave 1 include Vajrapani (protector and guide, a symbol of Buddha’s power), Manjusri (manifestation of Buddha’s wisdom) and Avalokitesvara (symbol of Buddha’s compassion). The ceiling decoration invariably consists of decorative patterns, geometrical as well as floral.

The craftsmen’s unquestionable mastery of brush technique along with their apparent familiarity with wealthy or noble subject matter led experts like Walter M Spink – Professor Emeritus, History of Art, at the University of Michigan and a world authority on the Buddhist rock cut caves at Ajanta – to suppose that these talented painters may have ‘painted in palaces and temples, hence the great familiarity that the artists show with the details of a wealthy court.’

The highly accurate pictorial technique used in Ajanta and the method of execution makes these wall paintings unique in the world. For many years these pictures were called frescoes, but this is an erroneous term in this case, and they are now referred to as murales, due to the fact that they were painted on a dry surface.

Another Chaityagriha (Cave 19):



The Cobra prince again, plus some cool dude:



Unlike the previous one, here the 'roof beams' were not false actual wooden beams, but carved stone. All done in 3D, in the dark with some oil lamps.

 

[RooFlyer]

Another one, Cave 26, quite similar to the last one:



This one has magnificent side galleries, with the stories carved, not just painted!




I think we visited about 12 of the 36-odd caves, and that was enough - even though it was cool in the caves, unlike the 42 degrees outside! There were plenty of these monkeys about. At this stage, the guide started to walk back, and I asked 'are we going to go up there?' (the look-out, RH pic).



The answer was effectively 'no, but you are welcome to go up if you like - but its hot!'.

Never get in the way of RooFlyer and a good view . I can attest that its 310 steps to the top (and still +40 degrees)

 

[craven morehead]

Why Birmingham and why Castle Bromwich Hall? I'm researching a particular colonial chap and he was born in Birmingham and was brought up at CBH. CBH is now a hotel, so how better than to carry on the research than by staying the night.

One arrives in the accustomed style:

View attachment 125394


View attachment 125395
View attachment 125397

The place was built in the mid 1500s and has remained largely unaltered since the early 1700s My guy lived here in the late 1700s. My room was on the top 'floor' - one of the attic jobs . But pretty good at GBP110. RH pic shows the nearby church with was built as the 'private chapel' for the Earl of something who built the pile.

View attachment 125396

View attachment 125401

The web site says no pics inside, so I e-mailed them telling of my study interest and got back a reply that one of their 'residents', had researched the house and would I like to meet him? yes, please!

So I meet him, a lovely guy, who immediately reminded me of 'The Major' in Faulty towers, in that he was in tweed jacket and tie, about the same age, but definitely NOT at all daffy like The Major. Told me a bunch about the history of the house and he in turn was interested in my studies. he was able to take me for a private tour of some of the non public areas of the house (at least to regular house guests).

View attachment 125399

Back around the house:
View attachment 125400

View attachment 125402

In additions to the gardens you see, there is a very large garden, part of the original estate, now one of the best preserved 18th century gardens in Britain, but its managed by a separate trust, so not open to guests.

View attachment 125403

What a fantastic opportunity !

 

[craven morehead]

Just in the lounge at BOM waiting to fly out to CMB. Late check out at The Oberoi 5pm ( after a free top-end lunch ) , but after the peak hour drive here, and then Indian security and immigration, God, I needed a large G&T and they delivered in spades. Love a country that properly understands the occasional need for a stonkingly large G&T.

I think I'll have another.

Outstanding ,nothing better than a stonkingly large G&T !!

 

[RB]

More great photos. The caves certainly remind me of some of our Sri Lankan sights

 

[craven morehead]

Arrived HKG 1:20pm and I had until 8pm in HKG. I had planned to go up the cable car near the airport to the 'Big Budda' I think its called), but those peaks were in cloud, so like in Tokyo I hung around a bit wondering what to do. I've been to HKG many times and in fact the last time, I started a 'what else to do in HKG' thread, looking for new things to do!

Caught the train into Kowloon and decided to do another high tower trip - this one 100 stories very close to Kowloon station. No queues, so straight in, and up. Fortunately the day had cleared a bit, so there were good views and nice clear air.

View attachment 125885

Loved the view of Kowloon. That's the 'Mira' hotel - one of my regulars just behind the park. Kowloon Park is very nice to wander around if you are in the area.

View attachment 125886

View attachment 125887

Eventually went back to the airport, had a landside Chinese massage and went lounge exploring. Only J lounges for me, so this WAS a new experience in HKG

Haven't been up there since 2006 but really enjoyed it : Ngong Ping 360 , The Ngong Ping 360 is a gondola lift on Lantau Island in Hong Kong. Intended to improve tourism to the area, the aerial lift was previously known as Tung Chung Cable Car Project before acquiring the Ngong Ping 360 brand in April 2005.

 

[craven morehead]

As nice as Mumbai is, it wasn't the main objective of me visiting India this time. I was off to Aurangabad, abt 50 mins flight east for a tour of the Ajanta and Ellora 'caves' (actually man made excavations - think Petra on steroi_s).

Strangely enough, my Travel Agent couldn't match via the GDS either the fare type or price that I could get on Air India's web site. I wanted fully flexible and of course lowest cost, so I just booked it on-line. Air India domestic leaves from the new-ish "International" terminal, about an hours drive from where I was, so I got a 600 rupee (A$12) black-and-yellow cab out there; still abt an hours journey in reasonably heavy traffic in the middle of the day.

In the light of day, the terminal is very impressive - I was hugely impressed. Large, uncrowded (VERY uncrowded - I was thinking - this is India ... where is everyone?).

Booking was checked on entering the terminal (short queue), then bags x-rayed. Then to check-in - no queue for economy and I was given an exit row. Then through security proper; no queue and through the portal thing, then everyone gets wanded and patted down. The security is done by the army - or some part of their Force - they were saluting each other. My carry-one got pulled for secondary screening, but didn't take long.

Very thorough security.

The concourse looks like an international one - high end shops etc; I went looking for lunch but the food court was a bit of a downer.

View attachment 126257

View attachment 126258

Boarding on time IIRC and pretty orderly. The flight wasn't half full.

View attachment 126259

Exit row legroom. the windows were very dirty/abraded.
View attachment 126260

Crew handed out these snack boxes - a mango juice and a couple of snack packets, and a water. Then not seen for the rest of the flight - even during the top-of-descent cabin check!
View attachment 126261
Aurangabad I knew was going to be hot. +40 deg forecast for the couple of days I'm there. The airport terminal building is just a very big shed, with partitioning and interior floors installed. Looks cheap, but its perfectly functional.

View attachment 126262

My tour driver young Patel was waiting for me and took me to the Lemon Tree Hotel. Lemon Tree I think is a mid tier chain of hotels in India. I came across them and saw they had a big discount if you joined their loyalty club, so that was that.

This particular one had a bit of a '70s feel, but was OK for a couple of nights.

View attachment 126263

Good common areas and a very nice pool. The Kingfisher went down VERY well!

View attachment 126264

Beware the Kingfisher strong premium beer @ 8% sorted me out proper one night in Auckland

 

[craven morehead]

Another one, Cave 26, quite similar to the last one:

View attachment 126602

This one has magnificent side galleries, with the stories carved, not just painted!

View attachment 126603

View attachment 126604
I think we visited about 12 of the 36-odd caves, and that was enough - even though it was cool in the caves, unlike the 42 degrees outside! There were plenty of these monkeys about. At this stage, the guide started to walk back, and I asked 'are we going to go up there?' (the look-out, RH pic).

View attachment 126605

The answer was effectively 'no, but you are welcome to go up if you like - but its hot!'.

Never get in the way of RooFlyer and a good view . I can attest that its 310 steps to the top:

View attachment 126606

Legend !!

 

[RooFlyer]

At the end of the site, it was back on the 'Eco busses' to the car park. This is our lovely driver and the filthy bus. The 'eco busses' are the most decrepit, diesel-smoke belching monstrosities you've ever seen. But UNESCO require 'eco busses' for the World Heritage site, so that's what they get.



Then, unfortunately, its another 2 hour drive back to Aurangabad. I really did worry abut the saris being caught in the motorbike spokes, and anyone who has driven (or been driven) in India knows the RH view all too well.



... and also know this sort of scene all too well ...



Back at the Lemon Tree Hotel, it was still in the high '30s, so time for a swim, and then a nice Kingfisher



They have a great outdoor kitchen, with a 'Taste of Asia' menu. I felt a bit guilty not having Indian, but the jumbo prawns and Thai curry were delicious.

 

[RooFlyer]

Next day, it dawned bright, clear, and hot! A pre breakfast swim was in order, and then we headed out, bound for the Ellora 'caves'. But first a stop at a school, where it was explained that the introduction of Christianity locally was made more palatable to the local Buddhist population, by portraying Christ in a Buddha pose . Clever marketing, that!



Then an unscheduled visit (I like that!)in the old part of Aurangabad. Although it appeared to me to be a bit grimy and utilitarian, Aurangabad has a long history - founded in 1610. It was briefly the capital of the Mughal (Islamic) India. it was never under British control, but remained under the Indian rulers of Hyderabad. Theres an old city wall, old bridges, but we only saw them in passing.



We soon arrived at this place.



Those having second take are entitled to do so. This is Bibi Ka Maqbara, ('Tomb of the Lady') also known as 'the poor man's Taj Mahal' and is directly modelled on the Taj in Agra, and built only about 50 years later, in the late 1600s. It was commissioned by Azam, the son of local ruler Aurangzeb for his mother; the Taj was built by Shah Jahan for Azim's grandmother. The Bibi was designed by the son of the Taj's architect.

You can see the resemblance in the next two pars of pics, where the Bibi is on the left, and the Taj on the right, when I visited in 2016.





Like the Taj, the minarets lean out, so they wouldn't damage the mausoleum if they fell in an earthquake. However the Bibi is mainly covered with plasterwork, not marble, and the surrounding structures are hardly grand (in relative terms). Its also less crowded!





There is some high craftsmanship however. In the RH pic is a solid carved marble screen (looking down from the top).

 

[RooFlyer]

Then we hit the road to the Ellora 'caves'. Only about an hour out, but the traffic was the same. Not far out of Aurangabad we passed by the ruins of the 14th century fort city of Daulatabad. It was pretty obvious on approach, but there wasn't going to be a stop until I ask for a couple of stops where I could take pics through the fence.

Like, wow - that what I call a hill top fort!



Interestingly (for me ) the hill is a remnant of an ancient lava flow, as were the Ajanta caves yesterday and the Ellora caves today. In fact its all part of what's called the 'Deccan Traps', a huge province of flood basalt, in fact one of the largest in the world; we studied this at Uni. The term 'traps' comes from a Scandinavian term referring to the step-like formations of the residual hills, which you can see even in these pics.

Around the base of the hill is a large, but ruinous fort city first begun in the 1100s. The fort covers a very large area and I've since discovered that it is partially opened to tourists, but it will take a lot of money to put it on the tourist map proper, in spite of the fact it is on the way to the famous Ellora caves - in face the highway goes right through one of the gates.



LH pic is the top of the hill, and the remnant palace (14th century). An obvious feature is the Islamic Chand Minar, built in the 1400s and Persian designed, taking its inspiration from the Qutb minar in Delhi.


So much history just ly'n around ...

 

[RooFlyer]

The land on the way to Ellora is quite arid outside of the monsoon season. Occasionally there are these brightly coloured trees (?acacia?), but that's about all. Unfortunately the first thing you come across having reached the site is a scrum at the ticket office. At this site, very popular with Indians, we experienced what might be termed Indian boganism. I know, their country etc, but some of what went on was pretty puerile. Fortunately at the ticket office the guide knew what to do (HKWIW) - went around the back door to the booth, told the guy at the counter what he wanted, got the ticket (abt A$25) and on we went, leaving the shouting and shoving at the front of the ticket booth.



Ellora. My finding out about this place was a bit unusual. Did anyone see the short series on India by Joanna Lumley a few years ago? She was born in Mumbai and spent a few years there, so she did a series on 'going back'. She visited the Ellora 'caves' and I was just gobsmacked at what I saw and immediately thought "I have to go there!"

So, the first thing you see is Cave 16, which is what she showed on her show. This is the view from the front:



And this from the rim of the excavation, at the back:



Like Ajanta, all this was carved out of solid basalt, by hand, but rather than tunnelling in, they did it by 'open cut', top-down .

Cave 16, or the Kailasa Temple is 30m deep at its deepest point. About 200,000 tonnes of rock removed and its twice the size of the Parthenon. Its World Heritage of course, and Cave 16 is the largest single hand carved rock excavation in the world. Unlike Ajanta, which is exclusively Buddhist, at Ellora there are Buddhist, Hindu and Jain temples, and over 100 'caves' in all. They started about 400AD and essentially 'took over' from Adjanta as the place for worship for the Buddhists, although the Hindus may have been here first.

This is the entrance to Cave 16, and we get an early indication of the wealth of carving that awaits.



These are the first views inside and I'll remind now, and periodically going forward, that this is all carved, in situ, top down. Everything you see is solid rock.




Paintings too

 

[RooFlyer]

We then went into the core of the temple - the hollowed-out central structure, and here we came across more of the 'boganism' I mentioned above. The guide said I could use a flash here, and it was reasonably dark. There were kids running everywhere, screaming. OK, nothing unusual in that, although a bit out of place. Then there were the adults of the extended family, sprawled out on the floor, laughing, yelling out something and some of them rolling across the floor. I'm not sure what they were about, but the guide sure gave them a serve!! At which point they up and left, and some calm returned.



Beautifully carved pillars every where, and at the core of this Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva. Depending on what aspect of Hindism you take, Shiva is the destroyer of evil or the creator and protector. RH pic is a 'fertility' symbol - male and female.








We then walked down to the base level, where more surprises awaited. Mythical creatures ... and then came the elephants!

 

[RooFlyer]

It should have come as no surprise that the whole central temple edifice was borne on the backs of elephants Again, folks, all carved from solid (and hard!) rock:




Of course not content with chipping 30m down, at the base they undercut the cliff to make a set of cloisters around the 3 sides. Note the irregular over-hang in the LH pic. At some stage, a big piece of rock had either fallen or been coaxed down




Outside, we were about to head off and I again had to ask 'what about up there?' (pointing to the hill above the temple). Again, the guide said more-or-less 'off you go, see you back here'. So the overweight Aussie tourist again burns off the guide. Actually I was mildly annoyed at this point. He should have at least pointed out the view opportunity and really should have come up with me to point out features to be seen. It was hot, but not that far, really.

About half way up. There were 3 or 4 other tourists at this point. Don't the lions have a major Chinese look about them? The Chinese definitely were through this area on trade routes.



Nearly there:



The view that I wanted . And not another soul up here.

 

[OZDUCK]

These are some amazing sites and great photos - thanks.