Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaijan

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

The next day, the final one in the Caucasus region was the one I was probably looking forward to most of all.

We headed south from Baku on the road to Iran (sounds like a movie ).




As you head out of Baku, about half an hour you hit a development of obviously up-market villas and in fact whole suburbs, with beach resorts a plenty. The best houses are on top of the backing ridge. However the outlook is pretty bad! This is where the 'The World is not Enough' was filmed; its been cleaned up quite a bit, but still a lot of oil industry infrastructure and oil producing derricks. The shot on the right is a bit further south - the entire area, and out to sea, is an oilfield.




About an hour south of Baku you pass a huge new pipeline terminal - the starting point for the 1,678km Baku–Tbilisi–Ceyhan (or Azerbaijan - Georgia - Turkey) oil pipeline. Its a huge and important development - allowing Azeri (and via transport across the Caspian Sea, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan) oil to reach the west without transiting Russia. (Its also the pipeline more-or-less featured in the Bond film). Pumping began in May 2005 and reached the Turkish end almost exactly a year later (this includes lots of commissioning time, of course).

From Wikipedia:

The pipeline has a projected lifespan of 40 years, and at normal capacity it transports 1 million barrels per day (160×10^[SUP]3[/SUP] m[SUP]3[/SUP]/d). It needs 10 million barrels (1.6×10^[SUP]6[/SUP] m[SUP]3[/SUP]) of oil to fill the pipeline. Oil flows at 2 metres (6.6 ft) per second.There are eight pump stations, two in Azerbaijan, two in Georgia, four in Turkey. The project includes also the Ceyhan Marine Terminal (officially the Haydar Aliyev Terminal, named after the Azerbaijani late president Heydar Aliyev), three intermediate pigging stations, one pressure reduction station, and 101 small block valves.It was constructed from 150,000 individual joints of line pipe, each measuring 12 metres (39 ft) in length. This corresponds to a total weight of 655,000 short tons (594,000 t).The pipeline is 1,070 millimetres (42 in) diameter for most of its length, narrowing to 865 millimetres (34.1 in) diameter as it nears Ceyhan.

In the RH pic, you see the walls that have been erected either side of the freeway, and on the tourist roads off the free-way, trying to hide either the oil infrastructure, or 'ugly' local settlements.



Destination was Qobostan (Gobostan), 60km south of Baku site of ancient petroglyphs and some old graffiti - at the place labelled 41 on the map. There is a great visitors centre on the bottom of the site - lots of good displays, stone tools from iron age, bronze age; explanations of how the area evolved and the role of the area in the development of the human race. Very impressive. The tent thing isn't it, though.




Maximus woz here

First site visited was some Roman 'graffiti', just a few hundred metres from the visitor's centre . Its fenced off, but not covered and they have cleaned the rock. It was carved by a Centurion in the 12th Legion during the reign of Emperor Domitian (51-96AD). Its the eastern most Roman inscription found, so pretty significant, but a youngster compared to what was on the rock faces up the hill.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Qobustan (Gobustan in English) is best know for its UNESCO World Heritage declared Upper Palaeolithic petroglyphs (ie dating from ~40,000 to 5,000 BC). Qobustan is a town on the highway, but the site is a few km inland, at the place labelled 41 on the map above. Its spectacular.

There are three low hills a km or so inland from the Caspian Sea. The Caspian has had marked rises and falls in its level over time, (including the 1970s!) due to earthquakes and other phenomena. Its actually the world's largest lake (371,000 sq km), not a sea, so is subject to rain inflows Vs evaporation and is only 1/3 as salty as sea water. The Caspian used to lap at the base of the hills, which comprise extensive large boulder fields, the remnants of collapsed limestone caves.

Ancient peoples used to inhabit the hills and have carved about 6,000 groups of figures of people, animals, battles, dances, sun and stars, boats etc . The site was discovered in 1930 and studied extensively from the 1940s. As mentioned above there is a new visitors centre which has excellent interpretive displays, and traces human's evolution and spreading out from Africa.




Up the hill there is a stone path taking you past a number of the petroglyph locations. To be honest I was a bit disappointed that the walk wasn't more extensive - it didn't demonstrate the diversity of digures very well.

LH pic shows male figures (and a shaman, with head-dress) with a reed boat and the sun on its bow. RH, my guide for scale.




LH shows several horned aurochs (extinct ancestors of domestic cattle). RH shows a shaman, with ?feathered head-dress.




LH more male figures and aurochs; RH female figures, always shown in side profile.




LH: An almost complete aurochs - note the rope around its neck, indicating domestication. RH: A carved tying up point.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

More of the petroglyphs; LH pic - a dog on the left, and a boar; RH pic - horses




Probably ceremonial dancing:




Views out to the Caspian Sea from the hill. Note the coastal plain - covered by the sea when the petroglyphs were made.




Zooming the camera out to sea, LH pic shows the near-shore network of oil derricks connected by several causeways themselves on piles. These are the pale spindly shapes within the dark hexagon shape offshore in the aerial shot in post #101. It was also featured in the Bond film. RH pic - a high zoom, showing the amount of ironware out on the sea.




We continued driving south to see some active volcanos, over dirt roads (lucky it hadn't rained). RH pic shows some of the local cattle self roasting (and that's an oil pipeline in the foreground ) . RH pic shows the countryside. Its pretty barren everywhere - arid and a limestone base means very little free standing water.

 

[UpInTheAir:)]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

I like it! History, geology and geography lessons all in one easy to read (read "lots of pictures") Trip Report

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

I like it! History, geology and geography lessons all in one easy to read (read "lots of pictures") Trip Report

More geology; maybe more that people will think necessary, but an absolutely fascinating aspect to me.

We continued south of the petroglyph site over dirt roads heading for a 'mud volcano' site atop a low hill. Mud volcanos are something I hadn't heard of until I started researching this trip. There are about 700 in the world, and half of them are in Azerbaijan. Nothing to do with classic volcanos - magma, or molten rock venting to the surface with fireworks and billowing ash. Mud volcanos are driven by methane (mostly) and is a by-product of a gas reservoir at depth and the cold mud appears to be derived from a diaper, or buoyant rising mass of liquid mud at shallow depths below.

Now, methane is of course highly flammable and occasionally methane does meet ignition, and something spectacular results. I wish

At the top of a hill were about 20 'cones', mostly active, some not and the first thing you become aware of is gurgling, plopping and phutting all aound, like a mass of frogs not in tune. Cones are 2-4m apart and many exhibit classic volcanic features such as 'flows'.




There is no sulphur about, but there is some resemblance to thermal fields and fumaroles like in NZ, but again this system is entirely cold.






On the RH pic, an illustration of what they think is going on.




As we left the site, more views of the Caspian oil fields and a true oil seep by the side of the road.

 

[UpInTheAir:)]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Great pictures of the mud volcanos... Now that is cool...

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Heading north back to Baku. Still a good freeway and lots of oil infrastructure. But then off to the right looms a massive construction project.



I learn that its the Khazar Islands project about 45 mins south of Baku, a privately financed project to turn Azerbaijan into the next Dubai :shock: . Designed to eventually be home to a million people, its all on man-made islands. The centrepiece is to be Azerbaijan Tower, the tallest building in the world :shock: :shock: . It will great if you like views of old oil platforms, oil pipelines and oil engineering installations.




On the southern edge of Baku is the Bibi Heybat Mosque. For centuries it was the region's holiest shrine. the original 13th century structure was demolished by the Soviets in 1934 and this building was erected in 1998.




Back in Baku, last stop of my tour is the Carpet Museum. I tried hard to get this off the agenda, but we had timeto spare, so off we went. its a new building - in the shape of .. a rolled up carpet (bottom centre). Inside we learn the history of carpet and the various weaving techniques.




Hundreds of carpets on display (stifles a yawn). The last one is a modern one, reflecting modern Azerbaijan.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Time for a last look at Baku (by the way, pronounced 'Baki' locally).

Not sure what this building is or was, but it retains some of the few visible remnants of Soviet rule in Baku.


Virtually every statue of Lenin & co have gone. There was one huge statue of Sergey Kirov (the leading figure in the 1920s Soviet annexation of Azerbaijan), on a tall pedestal where the current war memorial park is, over-looking Baku. Go here for an image of it. Several months before the declaration of Azeri independence in 1991, and before the collapse of the Soviet Union, the statue 'mysteriously' disappeared! Check out the size of it ... its not as if no-one would have noticed at the time

Around the town - some nice statues ...



As I mentioned up-thread, Baku and Azerbaijan have undergone 2 oil booms. The recent one, in the 1990s to present, and the first one, in the 1890s; Azerbaijan produced 50% of the world's oil in 1900. Then too, there were 'oil barons' who built plenty of ritzy places in downtown Baku. One such is shown in the next pic. Its now offices, but would have been a great homey spread in its time.



More downtown apartments and the mall area. Anyone agree that its sort of Paris-like (but cleaner)?





Finally, a couple of my favourites. Remember this is a 75% Muslim country, but the secular nature of the society is shown here. Bare mid-riffs in both cases, lippy and a mobile phone .

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

I had a late flight on Qatar Airways from Baku to Doha (11pm departure); 2.5 hrs transiting the Caspian Sea and Iran, which the newspapers had just helpfully noted intersected the cruise missile tracks that Russia were firing to Syria (albeit 30,000 ft lower).

As I mentioned initially, the international terminal is new, and befits an emerging oil economy. Check in was easy and then up lifts to departures level. Wads of D/F shops and others, including in these 'pods'. Elevator up to the 'Business Class Lounge' (generic) that OWE gets me into.




RH lounge approach - there's also a 'First Class Lounge' (to the right) which appeared to be empty (its late). The biz lounge was almost deserted and the attendant there was only interested in re-stocking the shelves and fridges, rather than fixing a drink behind the bar.


Food offerings were basic; I was disappointed in this, as I was relying on having dinner here. Basic drinks were available but spirits were behind the non-attended bar.




The concourse is also nearly deserted by boarding at 10pm, an hour prior to departure.




I was in 9C, second row of Economy on the aisle - again, a fairly cramped legroom seat. Not impressed with QR whY. At least this guy wasn't directly in front of me - one of those 'sit down, lets recline' types. The meal was pretty good, fortunately. Unlike the first part of this flight number - QR254, from Tbilisi to Baku, where I got 2 special welcomes for being OWE - there was no special recognition this sector (which wasn't a concern of course).



Soon in Doha.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Doha was only a stay of 10 hours overnight. I had booked the Oryx Rotana as it was nearby and offered a free shuttle from/to the airport. Its owned by, or aligned to QR; I stayed here about 4 years ago. It used to be very close to the old terminal but now its a 15-20 min drive.

I arrived about 12:30am (2:30am Baku time) and went to check-in. Basically the guy said my confirmed rate wasn't applicable, as I hadn't joined their paid club, only their basic club; he'd let me keep the rate, but I couldn't get wi-fi or breakfast - that would be 200 rials (about A$75). I was too tired to argue and said we'd sort it out in the morning.

The hotel itself isn't bad.




At check-out, a bit more arguing with them firstly flatly denying the e-mail I had produced, showing "confirmed" rate and extras, and no mention in the T&Cs of the paid club membership. What does "confirmed" mean, I ask? And what's this 200 rials for internet and breakfast when breakfast on my booking was only 75 rials? Eventually they relented but I was in a foul mood - and tired, to boot.

I was asked to sit in the lobby awaiting the shuttle to the airport - however I wasn't called and missed it. They put me in a sedan with another couple, who didn't seem to mind.

Oryx Rotana - don't bother with it; its no longer convenient to the airport, which was its main virtue.

On way to airport - LH pic shows the VIP terminal (Emir & co); RH pic the new main terminal.




I was so stuffed around at the Orxy that I forgot to check the terminal and lounge arrangements - there had been a bunch of changes re OWE access to their top lounge. I went to the business class check in area 5 (as OWE travelling whY to AUH) but was directed to area 3 as a whY status pax (LH pic). The terminal is large and spanking new. That yellow thing in the middle of the concourse - still don't know what it is, exactly.




I had been directed to the 'First' lounge (as opposed to the Al Mourjan lounge). It was nice enough; only a couple of us there. Buffet offering for breakfast wasn't great, although there was a waiter type there. I had b'fast at the hotel, so didn't enquire closely - especially as there was a guy there having his 10am beer with his breakfast and talking loudly to the waiter .




But the silliest thing about this lounge is that half of it is immediately underneath a large electronic sign, which flashes etc - completely distracting to a 'relaxing' environment. Also no power points accessible from the seating - there was a small computer area to one side. I left and explored the terminal, waiting for my 1 hr flight to Abu Dhabi.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Flight from DOH to AUH on QR whY again. Only about an hour, flight only half full. Arrived T3 (I think in AUH - on the older side (for a Gulf terminal!) and fortunately immigration was empty so I zoomed through. Got a taxi to my hotel (the first of the entire trip ).

As I was going to have all afternoon in AUH I took advantage of my newfound Platinum status in the Fairmont President's club to book a deluxe room with a guaranteed upgrade. The room didn't disappoint:






The view wasn't much chop - the other side is nice.




Weather was very hot and humid. I was thinking of getting a hotel car and having a look around for a few hours but decided I couldn't be bothered and this is when the Fairmont showed its strange side. I decided to do some work on my laptop, so went in search of a glass of wine in a bar with a nice view. Nope. At 2pm the options were: Sitting outside by the pool in the stifling heat, or they offered to serve me at the bar in one of their restaurants - literally a dark corner at the back. No normal type of lounge bar anywhere in the place. I was told at 6pm the tented bar at the front of the hotel would open. At the requisite hour, I checked that out. "Free flow beer" was the specialty there, as was smoking (hookahs). Bloody hell!!!

Its not as if there is a limitation on alcohol, so I wonder if the reason there is no bar taking advantage of the view, is what's actually in the view - the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Maybe out of deference they didn't want people grogging on in that sort of environment? I don't know.

But the mosque was a grand sight, as the sun went down.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

I got EY Chauffeur Drive from the Fairmont to the airport, a nice way to start the journey.

No drama check-in. I'm in Business on a B777 to MEL this time. I tried and tried to get F on the A380 or even J (again AA Miles are my currency), but this was the sole choice at the time of booking within a 3 day window, and nothing else turned up when I checked regularly up until flight day.

Directed to the 'Premium Lounge' at AUH; the terminal as a whole is very crowded. I think this is the F lounge, but the other one is closed?? Its large and pretty well appointed, but a bit crowded at 9 in the morning. There's a concierge where you can store bags.






Boarding 1 hr before departure - or rather its through gate carry-on bag check for the flight to Australia. Passport looked at 3 times. In the 'premium' seating area, where there are no seats available but lots of families (they share the premium seating area).

On board, its 10D. I left seat selection a bit late so this was the best I could do - mid cabin in a middle pair. No privacy whatsoever and a lot of the bench space is hard to use - around a bit of a corner. 9, 11 rows middle are for people travelling together and are probably better seats as far as having stuff around you and for privacy, in the middle. Seats like 7A, 9A, 11A and same on the other side are the pick of the seats - direct access to the aisle but away from it, a bit cocooned.

No PJs, which is what I expected so I donned my F set . My seat 10D at left.



The aisle columns - rows like 8, 10 and 12 are like my seat - right on the aisle with no privacy. 9, 11 and 13 have a little access walkway and seats against the window, good and private.

To be honest, this would be one of my least liked J seats (thinking of QF, AC, SQ, CX, LH, EK, TG); I found it uncomfortable in bed mode (ridges in bad spot) and I jiggered my back in squirming to get comfortable. Mind you, LH sloping beds are probably worse. Pre take off bevvie was Lallier Champagne.



Menu was OK. They gave the choice of when you'd like to dine. Service was pretty good; IFE was a bit limited, I thought.

 

[Daver6]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

To be honest, this would be one of my least liked J seats (thinking of QF, AC, SQ, CX, LH, EK, TG); I found it uncomfortable in bed mode (ridges in bad spot) and I jiggered my back in squirming to get comfortable. Mind you, LH sloping beds are probably worse. Pre take off bevvie was Lallier Champagne.

I think these are the same seats they have on the A330s to PER. Personally, I thought they were the best J seats I've experienced. I suppose only other J seats I've tried are SAA and all 5 or so QF ones.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

My main issue was with the aisle type seat - no privacy and the entire side is exposed to the aisle - so anyone going past could brush against you (ie kids walking with arms spread out to balance). Also where the seat slides down to meet the footrest, there are 2 or 3 hard ridges and no position I got into let me avoid these. But as I've said before, I'm spoiled (not to say bulky ) so relatively hard to please.


So here was lunch/dinner; the salmon/prawns appetiser, beef tenderloin mains and cheesecake dessert. All good.



Overall the flight was OK to good; I'd be happy to go with them again but would definitely angle for the A380 and/or one of the window-side seats.

Back in Oz, a few hours wait then its on QF to Hobart and I upgraded myself with points.

Of course there's no accounting for severe lack of class in some occupants of the cabin. Jeez, this type of thing annoys me. Lunch was good.




So, that's it for this TR.

Georgia - I'd like to get into the Caucus mountains if I were to go again. I'd suggest people not worry about the west of the country and do the east and north. Serious wine aficionados should go and see what they think of the qvevri wine. Independent travel OK. Lots of English spoken and signs in English.

Azerbaijan - I'd put a re-visit here as a higher priority than Georgia. Definitely would like to get to the northern mountains. The e-visa is relatively easy to get, although you do need to go through a government sanctioned agent to get the 'invitation'. Independent travel is more difficult than in Georgia. There are police checks on the highway (ie you actually get stopped) and nearer boarders north (Russia), west (disputed regions internally, and Armenia) and south (Iran) presumably they would increase. You'd need some form of written explanation I think, as you couldn't rely on the police to have good enough English. People 30+ speak Russian and Azeri. Younger folk speak English and Azeri.

You can't travel between Armenia and Azerbaijan, but you can between Georgia and Azerbaijan. If you have a stamp for Armenia or Azerbaijan in your passport, anticipate some hassle when crossing into the other country - maps and books probably inspected to make sure maps show the disputed regions the 'right' way.

I don't think there are significant 'security' concerns in either country - both in a gross sense, or personal safety on the streets (with sensible precautions). You can get to both on major airlines (eg Qatar).

I used Caucasus Travel, based in Tbilisi. Always prompt replies to e-mails, good service, delivered as promised; moderate price.

 

[RooFlyer]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

I want to post the music file off my phone when the traditional Georgian singers performed at the Schuchmann winery. Anyone know how to do it? It won't upload via images link and its a file, not a URL so video tool won't work.

 

[kevrosmith]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Great trip report as usual. Always appreciate the level of detail you provide and the photos. I enjoy being on holiday vicariously in places I'll never have the guts to visit.

 

[OATEK]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Can't help with the media file upload, but wanted to say that you have taken me to some places I will never visit in person, and I have found it thoroughly enjoyable.

 

[cgichard]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Great trip report as usual. Always appreciate the level of detail you provide and the photos.

I thoroughly second that; much appreciate the time and trouble you took over this report, RooFlyer.

I enjoy being on holiday vicariously in places I'll never have the guts to visit.

I don't know about Azerbaijan as I've not been there, but I assure you no 'guts' (except the genuine digestive variety) are required for a visit to Georgia. This 'little old lady' is already thinking about a possible third visit in 2017. While it might not have satisfied RF's special interests, you have more independence than you might expect travelling with a group. This year I went with Kudu Travel and for 2017 I'm looking at Andante. For more monasteries see the tours lead by John Graham. The only place in Georgia I thought was a waste of time was the Stalin Museum in Gori.

 

[drron]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Sounds like a great trip.You really do go out of your way to find new experiences.
But you are stopping me reducing the length of my bucket list.

 

[JohnM]

Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

But you are stopping me reducing the length of my bucket list.

A very good 'problem' to have IMO .