A Magic Carpet, er Ship ride to Arabia.

Trying to summon the energy to post about Bethlehem and Jerusalem. It was quite overwhelming both physically and emotionally.
Ok, so once again we had booked a private excursion. I posted on CC and was able to get two bus loads of people signed up, for two day excursions. One to Jerusalem and Bethlehem and the next day to Galilee and Nazareth. While I didnt much really care about this, it did mean that one of us would travel free on both days.

So, another early start at Haifa. To say security was intense is an understatement and there was no smile at all to be had. As expected there was visual face to face with passports at exit of ship. Then another luggage scan before immigration. Then another face to face and we were given the slip of paper instead of a stamp. We could see the excursion people rampaging down the exit stairs so we slipped into that queue from a lower level. Which meant we avoided a major hump of people for immigration. All but two of us on the private tour were there on time but there were two missing. After half an hour, as we were about to leave, they showed up. Apparently Viking had seen private people slipping through Deck 1 and they promptly shut it off. These people were maybe two minutes behind us but got sent up to deck two to come down to Deck A which meant they were at the end of the line for immigration. Not impressive Viking.

So we were off. We past by Tel Aviv and then into Jerusalem then Bethlehem. We had an Israeli guide until we hit Bethlehem then he had to disappear and we had a new guide who was Palestinian. We were in Palestine now.

Isreali Guide switch
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Palestinian Guide.

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We went straight to the area where the Church of the Nativity is located but first to St Catherine's which is the location of the Christmas Eve church service that is telecast around the world. There was a mass being conducted for pilgrims as we went in.

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There is reportedly a piece of the original manger incorporated into this art. I couldn't find it. Doesn't mean it doesn't exist though.

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Then to the church of the Nativity. From wiki: The church is owned by three church authorities, the Greek Orthodox (most of the building and furnishings), the Armenian Apostolic and the Roman Catholic (each of them with lesser properties).[1] The Coptic Orthodox and Syriac Orthodox are holding minor rights of worship at the Armenian church in the northern transept, and at the Altar of Nativity.[1]

It is impossible to describe and even photos don't do it. It has been renovated constantly over the centuries because of deliberate destruction and major damage from natural causes like earthquakes and floods. The latest being the vaulted ceiling in one of the pictures. To say it was packed with people from around the world is an uderstatement. Covid Central but it would eventually get worse.

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The doors are blocked up, to ensure that animals cannot enter and low in height to reinforce humility.

There was no security to enter. There was no security to enter Palestine/Bethlehem either.
 
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We were given a quick tour of Bethlehem by bus. Stopped for a panoramic view.

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The Wall between Israel and Palestine. It was interesting to hear the dialogue.

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Note the name of the Hotel.
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An attractive residence that we were 'parked ' in front of, for quite some time because - the security queue to re-enter Israel was awful.


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So our Palestinian guide left and our Israeli guide returned. He was a New Yorker but had moved to Israel and now lived in a kibbutz. His knowledge was immense.

We then got off the bus for a long four hour walk through Jerusalem. We started with the Jewish sector. It was Sabbath so many were dressed in their Sabbath clothing.

King David temple.

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This site is dedicated to the Holocaust victims, particularly Bergen-Belson. The names of all missing families are inscribed inside.



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The area where the Last Supper occurred.
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The holes here are from gun fire.
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We had moved from Jewish area to the Muslim area.

Part way through Via Dolorosa, the path that Jesus would be forced to walk by the Romans carrying the cross, which was just the cross beam. It is now full of market shops selling everything but pilgrims make their way through each cross point regardless. This is cross point 5.


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Via Delorosa. The walk carrying the Cross.

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We had lunch in the Muslim area. It was 3pm already. Security tight. Isn't it weird that no matter how you try to disguise you are taking a photo, that someone will always be looking at you. We were told there are 'eyes' everywhere here.

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So we entered Church of Holy Sepulchre, clearly a site of major importance to Christians from around the world for pilgrimage.

The site of the Crucifixion. It required climbing steps that were higher than escalator stairs, and we were surrounded by pushing shoving people with backpacks just wanting to get to the top. It was incredibly packed with humanity. Who pushed and shoved to get to the front. Hmmm. We heard about the evidence then had to make our way down. We could see how stories of people being crushed in stampedes could happen. So glad to get down to the bottom but needed our group to tell others to stop pushing and shoving.

The pilgrims would bend low under the altar and kiss the stone.

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Downstairs the dome was beautiful. We passed by the stone where Jesus was laid to be anointed, and again clearly sacred to many as they were enacting that scene. Whether or not it is the actual stone is irrelevant to them, it is what they believe it to be. We really felt like intruders.

Downstairs is the tomb dedicated to mark the spot where Jesus was entombed and then was found empty on the Sunday. Only 5 people at a time were allowed to enter. The line up was massive and priests were attending to people to keep them calm.

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Again we were relieved to leave the crowded place so charged with emotion for many.

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View over the Mount of Olives.

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The terminology used to describe Israel's presence is interesting but it seems that other than Lebanon there is somewhat acceptance and coexistence. Jordan appears to have lost a lot. And then there are the militants and the splinter groups.
 
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We made it back to the ship. We passed many checkpoints and each time we had to have someone show their passport. If they were serious about security they would have boarded the bus and randomly asked a passenger for the passport. But no, each time it was up to someone on the bus to show it. Oh well.

We had already cancelled our Nazareth trip but only told the trip operator as some of folk onboard made a big deal out of everything. One woman badgered me relentlessly in the days prior to the trip, met me in the CC gathering then when she had the info she wanted (she could have found it out herself) completely ignored me. Looked straight through me. 😂. So I used to make sure I was in her line of sight and smile at her so she'd have to move out of the way. Tosser.

The next day they decided to meet at 7am as it was a short cruise stop. Tosser lady also demanded that everyone bring their own lunch to save time. She wanted me to 'enforce' that on the first day also but I refused to tell people what to do. Many want to eat local. Which we did and had a great meal. So she was happy she got her way this time.
 
There is reportedly a piece of the original manger incorporated into this art. I couldn't find it. Doesn't mean it doesn't exist though.

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sounds like the Shroud of Turin - a great urban myth. :)
The Valley of the Kings and of the Queens (amazing photos you had there), Petra (again wonderful photos) pyramids etc would be wonderful but this latest port stop is not on my wish list at all.
 
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So we entered Church of Holy Sepulchre

Was there any security there? When I visited, it was totally packed from the open courtyard in front, right through the church and I saw no soldiers, at least. I was really, really nervous the entire time.
 
Were most of the people in your group American?
There were 6 Aussies and 9 Americans. We didn't hear much from 6 people 😂 and 1 other one who was very sweet. We decided that if something was bothering us, and would likely bothering others, then we didn't need to say or ask for something because 'others' would be asking well before we felt we needed to. 🤭. But there are also many Aussies onboard. We had one obnoxious one in the bar last night and six of them at the table next to us at the fine dining restaurant last night. 😤

We were actually hoping that Israel may have been scrapped and an extra port, say Crete, might have replaced it. Or a proper overnight in Port Said.

@RooFlyer - no security at all. There is very little security coming in to Palestine, it's going back to Israel that is check check check so have no idea why there was no one there In that courtyard area. Maybe because it is also sacred to Muslims that there's no risk? MrP commented similarly. I did not like this area at all and was pleased to leave.
 
There were 6 Aussies and 9 Americans. We didn't hear much from 6 people 😂 and 1 other one who was very sweet.

We were actually hoping that Israel may have been scrapped and an extra port, say Crete, might have replaced it. Or a proper overnight in Port Said.

@RooFlyer - no security at all. There is very little security coming in to Palestine, it's going back to Israel that is check check check so have no idea why there was no one there In that courtyard area. Maybe because it is also sacred to Muslims that there's no risk? MrP commented similarly. I did not like this area at all and was pleased to leave.
I wondered about the mix - I have found that many Americans often seem to be more interested in the 'holy land' than most Aussies. They often see more religious significance in the area.
It was a public holiday I think you said - did that have any discernible effect that you saw?
 
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I wondered about the mix - I have found that many Americans often seem to be more interested in the 'holy land' than most Aussies. They often see more religious significance in the area.

I visited both the Jordanian side and the Israeli side of the Jordan River near to Jesus' baptism site. The Jordanian side were about 100% European tourists - and me. The Israeli side almost 100% American pilgrims - and me.
 
I visited both the Jordanian side and the Israeli side of the Jordan River near to Jesus' baptism site. The Jordanian side were about 100% European tourists - and me. The Israeli side almost 100% American pilgrims - and me.

At the time we visited the Jordanian side in 2010 it was mostly europeans.
 
So after canning Nazareth and Galilee - apparently a lot more churches we avoided missed I wanted to visit BaHai Gardens which flows down the side of Mt Carmel, but did not want to do the more extensive ships tour because we are both done with buses. And people. 😂. We took the shuttle to the German Colony which took us to the bottom gate. It went up, very high. Nup, not walking that. The Dome is only the middle part. MrP had an Aunt who
was BaHai faith and she lived her religion and made a refreshing change from his other rellies and he would agree.

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At this point we were approached by a guy offering us an hour tour of the Gardens and a general tour of Haifa for $50 USD. No no no I hear you all say, but we had done similarly in Oman and had a brilliant time. So we thought, why not! 😳. Our sons would be outraged if they knew. Anyway, the taxi driver showed us the best time, stopped traffic where needed so could safely cross the road, and showed us the highlights.

The Gardens. They are free to enter but need to be security checked. We started at the middle level where the dome is located. And they are stunning.

Being a bright sunny day and spring time we had perfect weather. Around 23C. It was so peaceful and quiet and all the birds were chirping. And then along came the Viking Tour group 😂🤣. But as they use quiet Vox and most of them skivvied off to the loo we didn't really see them.

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The Bahai World Center in Haifa, part of the Bahai Gardens but off-limits to tourists, is where the faith’s international collective body makes its decisions, in the hands of nine elected leaders. Many of the gardeners in the Bahai Gardens are actually Bahais on a unique worker’s visa. They their faith working the land.

The Bahai Gardens can be divided up into three sections. The lower section opens up to the German Colony. The middle section include the gardens around the gold-capped Shrine of the Bab where his remains are kept. The upper section is just off the Louis Promenade and the main gate where the tours start. The Bahai Gardens reach close to a kilometer in length from the lowest gate at the German Colony to the main gate way up top. They are 19 terraces of flowers, waterworks and small sculptures.

The Bahai Gardens contains nine concentric circles each filled with flowers, small trees, small sculptures, water fountains and pools. To the sides of the gardens are wooded areas designed to house wildlife and to cut down on urban noise. The 200,000 square meters of land were designed by Iranian architect Fariborz Sahba. Funding comes from donations made only by Bahais, the world over.
 
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We were given a quick tour of Bethlehem by bus. Stopped for a panoramic view.

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The Wall between Israel and Palestine. It was interesting to hear the dialogue.

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Note the name of the Hotel.
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An attractive residence that we were 'parked ' in front of, for quite some time because - the security queue to re-enter Israel was awful.


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Stars & Bucks as well as the Walled Off Hotel 🤪
 
I wondered about the mix - I have found that many Americans often seem to be more interested in the 'holy land' than most Aussies. They often see more religious significance in the area.
It was a public holiday I think you said - did that have any discernible effect that you saw?
It was Jewish Sabbath so the area was very crowded with people worshipping. We went to the Western Wall, previously Wailing Wall because Jewish people could only access it on one day of the year, now there are no limits. I don't think anyone on our tour was religious but were just curious. The Aussies sure as heck weren't. I just felt as a tourist we shouldn't be there as clearly it was very important to pilgrims, Christians. In fact a couple of Americans were outright scoffing. The tour guide had very strong ideas on politics and most were looking around zipping their mouths. Well, all but one remained zipped. 😂. Not me not me.
 

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