All Roads (High & Rough) Lead to Ladakh-Another Indian Adventure

Storri Urvashi’s retreat food
At most meals we were the only diners. The well reviewed pizzas were never available, the fish dish that Magan recommended wasn't available and emphasis seemed to be on vegetarian dishes for domestic travellers. Despite this we enjoyed excellent omelettes at breakfast and the meals we all well cooked ( seemed that 30min was a min cooling time). I seem to have only limited photos- the spinach sauce with pasta in the last photo was a hit

A chicken & mutton meal and beaut garlic naan. The lime slices with the salads worked well.
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A different take on garlic bread but a couple of nice simple dishes
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Enjoyed a couple of rich soups
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The spinach-tasted much nicer than the photo portrays
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Around Manali
We still visited some temples, drove out to the Solang Valley and sat around enjoying the hotel. Vashisht Temple with the hot running water springs was a highlight
Vashisht Temple and Hot Water Springs in Manali, Himachal Pradesh | Himachal Pradesh: A Complete Travel Guide to Lakes, Temples, Monasteries, Gurudwaras, Forts, and Tourist Places

At Hidimba Temple we noticed it not it now costs less for a photo with a white rabbit and the yaks weren’t seen. The big fines for picking apples from the orchards obviously works as the trees around town are heavily loaded. There seemed to be little activity at Solang Valley - the sorbing wasn’t happening and the gondola wasn’t operating. In downtown Menali there seemed to be more young backpackers but less middle aged tourists. The domestic tourist market has definitely expanded.
Manali has certainly changed & there are a lot more tourist hotels and general development. Everywhere you travelled the devastation of the flooding was obvious & the rebuild is an extensive & ongoing activity.

A different mob heading in another direction
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Looking back towards Manali from Solang Valley area. Don't recall seeing any of the boulders in 2013
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This hotel is in full operation

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Manali to Jispa
Had a fantastic day of driving and viewing with the amazing construction feat of the Altai Tunnel taking us through the Rohtang Pass instead of over it. This life changing tunnel takes us up 1000 metres in 10 minutes and cuts 4 hrs off the journey - life changing for the people who use this road. We emerge above the tree line to the landscape of the Sissu/Lahaul Valley -a vegetable growing paradise of cauliflower & cabbage that you could smell in the air as we drove past. The Sissu Lake & holiday camp was a visual highlight. The wild natural landscape was speckled by wooden houses with carvings, the Chandra river, hanging glaciers, peaks, willow & poplar trees and previous avalanches. There was no shortage of monasteries, temples, and displays of Hindu/Buddhist cultures.
Our main diversion was when we called into Kardang Gonpa monastery - a pretty extreme road but worthwhile looking down to the Bhaga River and Keylong.

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Looking east after exiting the tunnel
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Happy to pose for my photo
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More cabbages!
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Sissu Lake
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Waterfall & camp ground


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More of Manali to Jispa
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More farming being carved out
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We came up on the dirt road in the bottom centre
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The elusive Kardang Gonpa
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View to Keylong
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A truck dumped this on the track while we were up at the monastery- In India you just wait until it is cleared
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Now THAT is an interesting exposure!

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Two sinistral thrust faults - bringing folded terrain above and below the middle unfolded sequence. Or an undeformed sequence conformably overlying a deformed one, then the lot isoclinally folded and tilted/refolded 😂

But I guess you knew that. :)
 
Now THAT is an interesting exposure!

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Two sinistral thrust faults - bringing folded terrain above and below the middle unfolded sequence. Or an undeformed sequence conformably overlying a deformed one, then the lot isoclinally folded and tilted/refolded 😂

But I guess you knew that. :)
Just more complicated than the geography text book explanations. :)
 
Jispa
The Hermitage Lahaul tent camp was our host with quite a few similar looking options. This one night stay was to break the drive and also help with the altitude acclimatisation. Great comfort in the tent although there was no hot water - could have boiled the jug but just had a cold shower & used the Indian bucket bath. The camp was in a beautiful setting right on the Bhag River (very cold water) and had heaps of veggie gardens set up. The tents were private & the bed extremely comfortable with a nice sitting area out the front. We had excellent & plentiful food at night & a great packed breakfast next morning.
We had an interesting discussion with the owner. He explained he had previously been a mountaineer, a guide throughout India and then returned to live in Keylong where he helps to look after his grandmother who is in her 80’s. The camp closes with the seasons & the tents are taken down & packed in sheds- the earning period can be reduced to 6 months.
This was our coldest night overall but the heavy doona & sleeping in Thai airline pjs & tracky dacks meant we were comfortable. We also started our high altitude medicine on this night so no booze for a few days!

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Plenty of good food again. Thankful for the table & chair- I had seen the reviews showing people sitting on mats like shown in the background of this photo
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What is the altitude there? And what altitude are you expecting to reach?
Jispa was 3,200m. The highest we got to was Khardung La ( about 4 days on from Jispa in our trip) which I believe is 5,359m although there seems to be discussion about that

From a wiki article
The elevation of Khardung La is 5,359 m (17,582 ft).[2] Local summit signs and dozens of stores selling shirts in Leh incorrectly claim its elevation to be in the vicinity of 5,602 m (18,379 ft) and that it is the world's second highest motorable pass.
 
Also in Chile - Atacama Desert and vehicle parked at 5001m (just had to do it. ;)). I walked (slowly) a little higher. Vehicle objected to re-starting; I should have parked it facing downhill.

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Sorry for the hijack. High altitude can be fun, but it can be messy.
 
Jispa to Leh
An epic day on one of the highest roads in the world - it averages over 4200 metres in altitude . An amazing experience with scenery that is unbelievably beautiful.
It is very difficult to know how to write up the day. This drive is a very challenging - mechanically, mentally, and physically -but worth every hard won kilometre. We were on the road for around 10hrs to cover the approx 260km (have read a variety of distances). We have great confidence in the vehicle and our driver. Magan keeps his vehicles a max of 3 yrs and is diligent with maintenance. He had also organised for us to carry oxygen onboard and we have a big supply of bottled water throughout the trip (not to mention a nice packed lunch provided by our camp in Jispa). We have only known Chandra for a week, but he is a very experienced long distance driver on Indian roads and in the mountains. His attitude to safety seems to reflect ours and I respect the ways he blesses himself each morning he gets behind the wheel. Although we are in a remote area, being India, you rarely spend any time without others being in seeing distance. While there are some totally uninhabited spots there are also many villages & camps and the small villages seem to have a pharmac_. There are certainly some thrill seeker drivers but they seem to be a small minority. There are some that seem poorly prepared with saddlebags seen falling off motorbikes and there are riders that are obviously very inexperienced. There were also quite a few organised group rides on hired bikes. We have some concerns when Mrs RB reads very low on our oxometre, but a drop in altitude & a stop for a chai tea seems to overcome our concerns.
Some of the notable experiences of the day -
Darcha Bridge-at 360 metres is the longest in Himarchel Pradesh.
The 4 huge high passes- Baralacha la, Lachulangla, Taglang La Nakee La. Not sure how many gears changes Chandra made in our manual vehicle through the hundreds of turns & switchbacks where we edged past other vehicles - literally on the precipice at times. The Gata Loops themselves have 21 hairpins.
The Morey Plains are a bit of relief from the bends & faster driving but the driving surface has constant dips & subsidence.
The check points - security & general safety tracking with visa & passports being checked.. The Upshi Checkpoint was rather confusing. We came to a stop behind a long line of trucks. We soon realised they were just parked up for breaks so you venture down the wrong side of the road for a km or so to pass them (not unusual to be on the wrong side in India!). We get much closer to the Indus River here - I think everyone heard of this river when at school.
The terrible working conditions for the road workers - high altitude, cold, windy, dusty, isolated tent camps with scant facilities. There are graders, rollers, rock drills & pop-up concrete plants but still many arduous tasks completed by hand - some respite where shovels are fitted with looped ropes so a second worker can help with the lifting when the shoveller gets tired!
The truck drivers - an arduous job. Apparently many return south empty as it is difficult to secure backloads. They certainly were very co-operative with other drivers during our day. We saw a few accidents & we saw a few wrecks that will undoubtedly remain where they currently rest. There seemed to be plenty of co-operation happening where there were breakdowns & tyre problems. Given the at times atrocious road conditions, I must say I was surprised at how few tyre problems we saw. The drivers hauling the 10 & 12,000 litre fuel loads were doing a remarkable job.

There are plenty of videos of this drive. These are a couple of them.

This shows the different challenges of a different time of year. They were travelling the opposite way
Spectacular Leh Manali Highway | 5 High Passes & 55 Pictures! -

Manali to Leh | Road Trip to Ladakh | Jispa | Baralacha La | Ep 1 - YouTube

Probably best played with no volume. Around the 16min 10sec mark shows the Cold Beer shop of my photo in the next posts- the water was higher & the road surface was rougher the day we went through

Manali To Leh Road Trip | Baralachala pass | Nakeela Pass | Tanglangla Pass |Manish Solanki Vlogs - YouTube

A short video I did- think I caught the only lull in oncoming traffic & the road surface was pretty good at that stage
 
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Nothing like passing time playing checkpoint cricket at altitude :cool:🤣
 

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