All Roads (High & Rough) Lead to Ladakh-Another Indian Adventure

[RB]

The Indus Zanskar Confluence (Sangam) -Meeting of Waters: The Majestic Confluence of the Indus and Zanskar Rivers in Ladakh India | by Wagjihash | Medium
The meeting point of the rivers is a beautiful site and it has also been developed for rafting & bungee jumping. It was fairly quiet when we were there with conditions not suited to rafting. Our photos from a greater height & distance tended to illustrate the difference in river colours a bit better.













Certainly much improved in India now

 

[RB]

Magnetic Hill
There were certainly plenty of people who wanted to check out the myths & theories here.
The myth- the villagers have a myth about this place. They think there was a time when a road existed at Magnetic Hill existed. This road took people to heaven. Those who deserved heaven were pulled up while walking on this path, whereas those who didn't deserve the place didn't feel anything. While we were there one young lady almost made it to heaven as she scrambled from the middle of the road just in time to avoid an oncoming truck whose driver decided to use his air horn instead of his brakes!
Magnetic force or an illusion?- Don't know but it has spawned a quad bike riding area & a zipline!









Driving back into Leh we were entertained by many of the safety signs adorning the road - maybe they had a competition for people to come up with the sayings.

​

 

[RB]

Leh Palace- Leh Palace - Wikipedia

Also a very detailed description Leh Palace : Facts, History and Complete Travel Guide - Ladakh

Beautiful views of the surrounding landscape are available from the 9 levels. Photography within the complex is restricted but the museum, video & workmanship certainly make it a worthwhile visit.

 

[RB]

Shanti Stupor Shanti Stupa, Ladakh - Wikipedia
Getting towards the end of a long hot day here but this is a magnificent white domed monument that overlooks Leh. It was built in 1991 in the hope of promoting world peace & commemorating 2,500 yrs of Buddhism.
Back to the hotel for an early dinner & night as we prepare for our flight to Jammu











Some fantastic district views available


Poplar, willows, pine & juniper are widely used in the old buildings


A sneak view in one of the closed museums

 

[RB]

Leh to Jammu
We had had a few decisions to make. By road approx 680km & somewhere between 10-11 hrs of driving time or a short flight. Also the travel insurance implications with the Aust Govt travel warnings. After the flight it was approx 90km & around 2hrs to the border. We bit the bullet & the line of least resistance was the flight.
Air India AI449-IXL-IXJ 5E & 5F A320

Officially left 14min early, arrived 10min early with flight time of 1hr 4min.

Early flight out of Leh but an easy 10 min drive from the hotel & we were walking into the terminal - a new terminal is not yet complete or in use.. This was our first domestic flight in India since 2007 but we have had quite a few international landings & departures so we thought we were well prepared. We had paper copies of the itinerary, boarding passes, visas & other flights, passports, boarding passes on our phones etc but still got caught up in confusion.

We were only carrying a backpack each so we lined up for security - but no, we needed a paper boarding pass from another line in another corner. Walking back to security we also stumbled onto a previously unseen & unmentioned desk where we signed to say we were exiting Ladakh - who knows where all of the bits of paper go where our details were recorded. There was plenty of jostling & scrambling at security - absolutely everything out (double adaptors, power chords, torches, powerbanks etc) and then with way more lines than there were scanners it was impossible to keep an eye on your stuff. We had plenty of time but security didn’t feel secure!
Things settled as we found a seat & the mood lightened as a yelling tom cat moved through the terminal - made more interesting because he only had 3 feet!

This article looks at some interesting facts about the airport. Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport - The Leh Airport - Discover Leh Ladakh

Boarding was pretty civil as we were loaded onto multiple buses for a short ride to the plane. My seat back was broken but with a pretty full plane I wasn’t going to cause a fuss & tried not to slip back. Staff were pretty lax anyway re flight mode with loose items in the plane & haphazard service missing rows when handing out water. The views certainly made up for the service shortcomings!
Jammu terminal was very modern, signage excellent & we were quickly out & wandering to the carpark where Magan & Chandra were waiting as per arrangements! I think the “mafia” upset Magan with their collection of a parking fee (maybe the Rajasthan number plate was a target) & then another double check as we exited through the security arm.



The complaints Dept!

 

[Cossie]

Great TR, I hope you don't mind me posting some stuff from 1982, thought it might give an idea of how Leh has changed. I got ill, we flew in, I did far too much the first day, not a pleasant experience, would love to go back and do something like you, but very unlikely...

 

[RB]

Great TR, I hope you don't mind me posting some stuff from 1982, thought it might give an idea of how Leh has changed. I got ill, we flew in, I did far too much the first day, not a pleasant experience, would love to go back and do something like you, but very unlikely...

View attachment 412514View attachment 412515View attachment 412516View attachment 412517View attachment 412518View attachment 412519View attachment 412520

I appreciate you taking the time to post your photos-a great insight. I can't find any photos of Curio Corner amongst ours but there are designer shops along the street now! Certainly interesting to look at the similarities & contrasts. The altitude sickness aspect gets a lot of attention-fortunately we coped ok.
Of all the places we have visited in India, Leh was the area where the people discuss climate change constantly & believe it is certainly happening.

 

[RB]

Jammu to Dalhousie
Back to a routine with around 180km to cover & somewhere near 5hrs on the road. Jammu is very spread out & it seemed to take forever to clear the built-up area. A lot of incomplete roadworks, particularly pylons for a future highway that will be elevated well above the current road. It was pleasant to be back to a lower elevation as we headed through areas of plains & broad dry river beds. The Jasrota Right Canal is close by for many kilometres. We crossed the Ravi River & entered the Punjab at Madhopur. There were excellent roads but heavy traffic so again no speed records being set. Lunch was a huge roadside complex with outlets catering to all tastes. Eventually we moved back into Himachal Pradesh & made the slow climb up the picturesque area to Dalhousie- the roads narrowed & became windy and the heavy rain & bits of fog made it a new driving challenge for this trip.





Back in a rice growing area


One of the arms of the Ravi River


Off Highway 44 & on the 154




The light wasn't the best for photos

 

[RB]

Grand View Hotel Dalhousie
Apparently Sundays are a busy night at Indian hotels in holiday areas. With our 3 nights in Dalhousie including a Sunday we opted for a 1 and 2 night stay at different hotels so we could get the room classifications we wanted- only takes us 5 minutes or so to pack up so no worries there.
Our 1st night at the grand View was in a good room that was very spacious with a separate sitting room at the front. Again a very comfortable bed - a great trait throughout our holiday. We were well looked after and enjoyed the dinner & breakfast at the Tiffins Restaurant. Certainly a lot of domestic family travellers with young families. It had excellent gardens & the views were superb but it was a busy/noisy area with lots of young families all after a good selfie. It was a little challenging to just find a quiet spot to sit!

 

[RB]

Around Dalhousie
Dalhousie is a hill station at around 1970m elevation where traffic is rather chaotic at times given the scarcity of flat land and parking spots are at a premium. It’s in a stunning setting full of Victorian era architecture and the streets, old buildings and-churches have got the charm of the British era. The town was founded in 1854 when the British “bought” 5 hills from the rulers of Chamba (some reports say that the deal was reneged on). The British then developed the the hills as a sanatorium for their troops recuperating from leprosy and named the town after the British Governor-General, Lord Dalhousie.

Day1
Visit to Khajjiar – a small hill station and wildlife sanctuary in Himachel Pradesh. Khajjiar is famous for its unparalleled natural beauty. There is a small serene lake surrounded by dense cedar forest and with a landscape that's topographically similar to Switzerland, it was dubbed the "Mini Switzerland of India" in 1992 by the then Swiss Envoy Willy P. Blazer (since then the name has caught on). The cows are the Indian variety, and there are a few monkeys in the mix, but you can see the similarities. This version of Switzerland is located at a distance of about 14.3 miles from Dalhousie. Khajjiar's saucer-shaped meadow (complete with chalets) is surrounded by forests of pine, deodar, and cedar, with scenic views of the scintillating peaks of Dhauladhar in the backdrop. The carpet of lush green grasslands makes it a perfect spot to try paragliding, zorbing and horseriding.

Beeji’s Park was a stop on the way to Khajjiar. This park is notable for housing a MIG-21, two Surface-to-Air Pichora Missiles, a Russian-made T-55 tank, and a massive model of the latest Shivalik class stealth frigate. The road past the Dalhousie Public School is magnificent with planter boxes both sides of the road for what seems like kilometres.

Beeji's Park

 

[RB]

A very busy building site- sand carried across the road on the head & dumped into the mixer



A flower seller uses a pigeon to draw some attention

 

[RB]

The "Swiss Playground"


Not the best put together horse!






Heading back to Dalhousie

Great spot for a cuppa






The roadside gardens-note the hand painting of the road markings

Not sure where the traffic has gone-Gandhi monument Mall Rd

 

[RB]

****** Made an error in Post 69-that hotel was the Mount View Hotel-seems I am too late to edit the post

Hotel Grand View Dalhousie
A 2 night stay. Almost next door to the previous hotel. A steep hill up from the carpark but no physical challenge as us and the backpacks were transported up to reception via a golf buggy.
We were shown a couple of rooms & given a choice - either a room in the Imperial Block with colonial architecture & views direct to the Himalayas or in the luxury block with more modern decor. We ended up opting for the luxury block as the balcony there gave us a more private spot to enjoy (keeping an eye out for invading monkeys). The Imperial Block rooms had no balcony & were subject to people walking past to the restaurant. Our room was very comfortable, the food offerings were great & the staff exceptional.
On arrival & departure our bags were carried for us. This is normal throughout India but here the task was more difficult. A senior long time employee (very insistent on helping) equipped with a chaff bag over the back of his head & back & some rope carried the 30 odd kg of our main bags plus a backpack by himself- up the hill on arrival & then on departure he went from the room on the 3rd floor via the fire stairs all the way down to the carpark.- happy to tip!

Our amazing helper












Certainly a grand view

 

[RB]

Grand View Hotel continued
Pressed metal ceiling in dining room


Hallway of Imperial Block


Imperial Wing


Part of sitting area of Imperial Wing


Delicious dish prepared just for us-a chicken quiche style


As seen from our balcony. A protected spot with the ability to move with the sun!

 

[RB]

Day 2 Around Dalhousie
We started the day at St Francis Catholic Church. It was constructed in the year 1894 by the Army and Civil Officers and civilians. Since then, the church has been maintained and regulated by the Catholic Diocese of Jalandhar. The church is built in the typical British architecture and bears a resemblance to many famous churches of England - there we met the wonderful Father Justin. He showed us around and offered to take us to the even larger St Patrick's which he had spent the last 3 years restoring to it's former glory. St Patrick's with its Cedar ceilings, original statues by the British, and even a place in the pew to stash your sword during a service - you can feel history.
We finished our tour listening to a beautiful rendition of the Lords Prayer sung in Hindi & sharing a bar of chocolate.

Next up was Kalatop- there was a bit of overlap as it’s on the same road as Khajjiar & again a pretty challenging road into the sanctuary. No notable wildlife seen but Himalayan black bear, mountain cats, jackals, Himalayan black marten, leopards, and langurs are said to live here. There were very few visitors and the restaurants/tea shops were shrouded in low cloud.

Monument for Bose the Freedom Fighter




Inside St Francis




St Francis Confessional


St Patricks


Pew adjustment for sword/rifle


St Patrick statue 1910

 

[RB]

Couple more road signs

 

[RB]

Dalhousie to Chandigarh

A long day on the road, about 330km and no real highlights to see. We spent around an hour getting a wheel rotation/balance/alignment. Chandra had noticed a difference & it was not surprising given some of the roads we had been on- 400 rupees (approx $7 Aust) for work done with modern camera equipment & machine balanced. Consume another nice cup of Masala Tea and watch the passing parade while we wait.
Lunch was another roadside service centre - extravagant misting machines out the front to cope with the high temps & humidity and costumed waiters.
Our other stop was the Rose Gardens in Chandigarh (visited previously) where again we were not in prime season but it is a spectacular retreat from the bustle of Indian life. Zakir Hussain Rose Garden - Wikipedia
I recall that on our previous visit we were impressed by the more orderly traffic of Chandigarh. That seems to have disappeared with the huge population now moving in the same chaotic pattern as the rest of the country. The many roundabouts are choked.
This was the day my phone (and camera) turned into a brick while an update was being installed. Unfortunately unable to be revived in India & also pronounced dead back in Australia.





Another great cup of tea

 

[RB]

Country Inn & Suites Chandigarh Country Inn & Suites by Radisson Chandigarh Zirakpur, Chandīgarh (updated prices 2024)
Our photos of the hotel seem to have disappeared following the demise of my phone. We stayed in a very roomy suite here & it was a modern, extremely comfortable space. The soundproofing from the close by highway was excellent. We were on a quick 1 night stay so our only interaction was with the restaurant - decent food but our allocated server had us thinking we were at Fawlty Towers. The beer price was only usurped by the airport hotel on our last night in Delhi. The delivery of bags to our room was the slowest of the whole trip & we simply took our own bags for check-out. The location meant that our arrival was through the worst of the traffic but the next morning we were soon in rural traffic flows.

Will have photos of the rest of the trip

 

[RB]

Chandigarh to Alsisar

https://maps.app.goo.gl/dCc1JqNqDLQkBDrA6

Well Rajasthan is the Golden Land with a rich heritage & we have thoroughly enjoyed visiting previously. We have 5 nights left in our current adventure and the plan is for less time in the car & to enjoy new territory on a slow move to Delhi.

This day is another one of contrasts. We head south on NH152 through magnificent Punjab and Haryana farmland with thousands of hectares of lush farmland growing sugar cane, rice and cotton & it seems the economy of the foodbowl justifies the spend on a magnificent 6 lane highway with barely any traffic (there is currently a grace period before speeding fines are introduced). The transformation to the arid semi desert area is less pronounced than expected. Magan informed us the area has seen far greater monsoon rains than average & that is evidenced by the lush growth alongside the roads.









And back to narrower road with hazards

 

[RB]

Alsisar Mahal Palace
This really is a magnificent place to stay. Plenty of old charm & beauty on display. I couldn’t live full-time with the motifs, hand carvings, rugs, chandeliers, huge arches, 4 poster bed & antique furniture, but for 2 nights it was really special. The dining room was a truly special spot with it’s high ceiling & enormous centre table. We were free to wander all through the building with it’s museum quality displays and furniture & a rooftop which gave magnificent views. The pool area looked tempting too.
The first night there was a puppet show & the next night some traditional singing - both authentic, simple displays that we enjoyed in the courtyard. The food was excellent.
There were lots of variations in power, noisy air conditioning that worked overtime in the heat, & wi-fi in the room was non-existent but that was to be expected in such an isolated spot.

I thought these were useful reading
Heritage & Restoration | Alsisar Mahal
Experiences | Alsisar Mahal
15 pictures that take you inside the luxurious Alsisar Mahal, home to the Prince of Alsisar in Rajasthan | GQ India



Reception