All Roads (High & Rough) Lead to Ladakh-Another Indian Adventure

Magnetic Hill
There were certainly plenty of people who wanted to check out the myths & theories here.
The myth- the villagers have a myth about this place. They think there was a time when a road existed at Magnetic Hill existed. This road took people to heaven. Those who deserved heaven were pulled up while walking on this path, whereas those who didn't deserve the place didn't feel anything. While we were there one young lady almost made it to heaven as she scrambled from the middle of the road just in time to avoid an oncoming truck whose driver decided to use his air horn instead of his brakes!
Magnetic force or an illusion?- Don't know but it has spawned a quad bike riding area & a zipline!

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Driving back into Leh we were entertained by many of the safety signs adorning the road - maybe they had a competition for people to come up with the sayings.

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Shanti Stupor Shanti Stupa, Ladakh - Wikipedia
Getting towards the end of a long hot day here but this is a magnificent white domed monument that overlooks Leh. It was built in 1991 in the hope of promoting world peace & commemorating 2,500 yrs of Buddhism.
Back to the hotel for an early dinner & night as we prepare for our flight to Jammu

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Some fantastic district views available
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Poplar, willows, pine & juniper are widely used in the old buildings
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A sneak view in one of the closed museums
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Leh to Jammu
We had had a few decisions to make. By road approx 680km & somewhere between 10-11 hrs of driving time or a short flight. Also the travel insurance implications with the Aust Govt travel warnings. After the flight it was approx 90km & around 2hrs to the border. We bit the bullet & the line of least resistance was the flight.
Air India AI449-IXL-IXJ 5E & 5F A320

Officially left 14min early, arrived 10min early with flight time of 1hr 4min.

Early flight out of Leh but an easy 10 min drive from the hotel & we were walking into the terminal - a new terminal is not yet complete or in use.. This was our first domestic flight in India since 2007 but we have had quite a few international landings & departures so we thought we were well prepared. We had paper copies of the itinerary, boarding passes, visas & other flights, passports, boarding passes on our phones etc but still got caught up in confusion.

We were only carrying a backpack each so we lined up for security - but no, we needed a paper boarding pass from another line in another corner. Walking back to security we also stumbled onto a previously unseen & unmentioned desk where we signed to say we were exiting Ladakh - who knows where all of the bits of paper go where our details were recorded. There was plenty of jostling & scrambling at security - absolutely everything out (double adaptors, power chords, torches, powerbanks etc) and then with way more lines than there were scanners it was impossible to keep an eye on your stuff. We had plenty of time but security didn’t feel secure!
Things settled as we found a seat & the mood lightened as a yelling tom cat moved through the terminal - made more interesting because he only had 3 feet!

This article looks at some interesting facts about the airport. Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport - The Leh Airport - Discover Leh Ladakh

Boarding was pretty civil as we were loaded onto multiple buses for a short ride to the plane. My seat back was broken but with a pretty full plane I wasn’t going to cause a fuss & tried not to slip back. Staff were pretty lax anyway re flight mode with loose items in the plane & haphazard service missing rows when handing out water. The views certainly made up for the service shortcomings!
Jammu terminal was very modern, signage excellent & we were quickly out & wandering to the carpark where Magan & Chandra were waiting as per arrangements! I think the “mafia” upset Magan with their collection of a parking fee (maybe the Rajasthan number plate was a target) & then another double check as we exited through the security arm.

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The complaints Dept!
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Great TR, I hope you don't mind me posting some stuff from 1982, thought it might give an idea of how Leh has changed. I got ill, we flew in, I did far too much the first day, not a pleasant experience, would love to go back and do something like you, but very unlikely... :(

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Great TR, I hope you don't mind me posting some stuff from 1982, thought it might give an idea of how Leh has changed. I got ill, we flew in, I did far too much the first day, not a pleasant experience, would love to go back and do something like you, but very unlikely... :(

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I appreciate you taking the time to post your photos-a great insight. I can't find any photos of Curio Corner amongst ours but there are designer shops along the street now! Certainly interesting to look at the similarities & contrasts. The altitude sickness aspect gets a lot of attention-fortunately we coped ok.
Of all the places we have visited in India, Leh was the area where the people discuss climate change constantly & believe it is certainly happening.
 
Jammu to Dalhousie
Back to a routine with around 180km to cover & somewhere near 5hrs on the road. Jammu is very spread out & it seemed to take forever to clear the built-up area. A lot of incomplete roadworks, particularly pylons for a future highway that will be elevated well above the current road. It was pleasant to be back to a lower elevation as we headed through areas of plains & broad dry river beds. The Jasrota Right Canal is close by for many kilometres. We crossed the Ravi River & entered the Punjab at Madhopur. There were excellent roads but heavy traffic so again no speed records being set. Lunch was a huge roadside complex with outlets catering to all tastes. Eventually we moved back into Himachal Pradesh & made the slow climb up the picturesque area to Dalhousie- the roads narrowed & became windy and the heavy rain & bits of fog made it a new driving challenge for this trip.

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Back in a rice growing area
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One of the arms of the Ravi River
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Off Highway 44 & on the 154
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The light wasn't the best for photos
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Grand View Hotel Dalhousie
Apparently Sundays are a busy night at Indian hotels in holiday areas. With our 3 nights in Dalhousie including a Sunday we opted for a 1 and 2 night stay at different hotels so we could get the room classifications we wanted- only takes us 5 minutes or so to pack up so no worries there.
Our 1st night at the grand View was in a good room that was very spacious with a separate sitting room at the front. Again a very comfortable bed - a great trait throughout our holiday. We were well looked after and enjoyed the dinner & breakfast at the Tiffins Restaurant. Certainly a lot of domestic family travellers with young families. It had excellent gardens & the views were superb but it was a busy/noisy area with lots of young families all after a good selfie. It was a little challenging to just find a quiet spot to sit!

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Around Dalhousie
Dalhousie is a hill station at around 1970m elevation where traffic is rather chaotic at times given the scarcity of flat land and parking spots are at a premium. It’s in a stunning setting full of Victorian era architecture and the streets, old buildings and-churches have got the charm of the British era. The town was founded in 1854 when the British “bought” 5 hills from the rulers of Chamba (some reports say that the deal was reneged on). The British then developed the the hills as a sanatorium for their troops recuperating from leprosy and named the town after the British Governor-General, Lord Dalhousie.

Day1
Visit to Khajjiar – a small hill station and wildlife sanctuary in Himachel Pradesh. Khajjiar is famous for its unparalleled natural beauty. There is a small serene lake surrounded by dense cedar forest and with a landscape that's topographically similar to Switzerland, it was dubbed the "Mini Switzerland of India" in 1992 by the then Swiss Envoy Willy P. Blazer (since then the name has caught on). The cows are the Indian variety, and there are a few monkeys in the mix, but you can see the similarities. This version of Switzerland is located at a distance of about 14.3 miles from Dalhousie. Khajjiar's saucer-shaped meadow (complete with chalets) is surrounded by forests of pine, deodar, and cedar, with scenic views of the scintillating peaks of Dhauladhar in the backdrop. The carpet of lush green grasslands makes it a perfect spot to try paragliding, zorbing and horseriding.

Beeji’s Park was a stop on the way to Khajjiar. This park is notable for housing a MIG-21, two Surface-to-Air Pichora Missiles, a Russian-made T-55 tank, and a massive model of the latest Shivalik class stealth frigate. The road past the Dalhousie Public School is magnificent with planter boxes both sides of the road for what seems like kilometres.

Beeji's Park
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****** Made an error in Post 69-that hotel was the Mount View Hotel-seems I am too late to edit the post

Hotel Grand View Dalhousie

A 2 night stay. Almost next door to the previous hotel. A steep hill up from the carpark but no physical challenge as us and the backpacks were transported up to reception via a golf buggy.
We were shown a couple of rooms & given a choice - either a room in the Imperial Block with colonial architecture & views direct to the Himalayas or in the luxury block with more modern decor. We ended up opting for the luxury block as the balcony there gave us a more private spot to enjoy (keeping an eye out for invading monkeys). The Imperial Block rooms had no balcony & were subject to people walking past to the restaurant. Our room was very comfortable, the food offerings were great & the staff exceptional.
On arrival & departure our bags were carried for us. This is normal throughout India but here the task was more difficult. A senior long time employee (very insistent on helping) equipped with a chaff bag over the back of his head & back & some rope carried the 30 odd kg of our main bags plus a backpack by himself- up the hill on arrival & then on departure he went from the room on the 3rd floor via the fire stairs all the way down to the carpark.- happy to tip!

Our amazing helper
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Certainly a grand view
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Grand View Hotel continued
Pressed metal ceiling in dining room
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Hallway of Imperial Block
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Imperial Wing
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Part of sitting area of Imperial Wing
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Delicious dish prepared just for us-a chicken quiche style
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As seen from our balcony. A protected spot with the ability to move with the sun!
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