Return to the Japan Alps May 2024

Amazing onsen, excellent service at a very reasonable price, Kamei no Yu I 100% recommend.

Checked out and back to Yudanaka Onsen Station.
Saw another bath house for local residents, sadly there's an English sign on it saying not to force your way in (it's actually locked)...🤢 Who does that??!
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I was spending the night in Nagano, but planned a pit stop at Obuse.
Onto Nagaden again and another nice looking train! And you only pay 100 Yen more for the express train.
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Obuse is a small town in Nothern Nagano half way between Yudanaka onsen and Nagano city.
Best known for being Hokusai's home in his later years - he came to live in Obuse as invited by a wealthy local merchant and art lover, Takai Kozan.

The historical town centre of Obuse is very pretty, and there's a Hokusai museum.
I've been to the museum already...this time I came for the sole purpose of visiting Gansho-in, with its ceiling painted by Hokusai.

*The town is also famous for chestnuts but May is not the season. If you happen to be there in Sep/Oct, I highly recommend Obusedo's Chestnut Mont Blanc!!

Gansho-in was not in the town centre so I rented a bike.
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The ceiling painting was Hokusai's last masterpiece before passing away aged 90.
It's a Phoenix staring down at you from all directions🤣 八方睨み鳳凰図
Photos were not allowed so you just need to go and see for yourself 😉

There's also a famous pond 蛙合戦の池 in the temple. No not like the ponds in Kamikochi 🤣
This one is said to have inspired haiku master Issa 小林一茶 making one of his best known haiku.
やせ蛙
負けるな一茶
是に有り

Yeah don't ask me to translate 😂

Luckily you can take as many pictures of the pond as you like!
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Well, actually I can show you the handkerchief I bought of the Phoenix. 😉
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I didn't have a lot of time in Obuse, otherwise probably would pay another visit to Obusedo - really guys, try their chestnut mont blanc!

Took a commuter train this time. Why? Because I needed to get off at Zenkojishita, not Nagano.
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From the station it was about 15 mins walk to Zenkoji 善光寺.

Zenkoji is one of the most important temples in Japan. It was founded in the 7th century and have one of the very first Buddhist statue being brought to Japan ever - more on that later.

Many Japanese cities were originally castle towns, but Nagano is a temple town. Meaning the city developed around Zenkoji. This area is much more lively than other parts of the city, at least during day time.

The Omotesando is lined with souvenir shops, restaurants etc. I bought another two Nozawana Oyaki for lunch 🤣
This time I remembered to take pictures even!
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What is a Shukubo 宿坊?
Simple answer, temple lodging.

Some temples in Japan offer temple lodging, most famously in Koyashan - at least to foreigners.
But there are others too. Zenkoji, 3 mountains of Dewa in Tohoku, also in Shikoku for the Henro, etc (even a few in Kyoto!)

Around Zenkoji there are 39 Shukubos.

*note I link the official website of Zenkoji above in Japanese. Their English version is pretty basic and the shukubo part simply doesn't exist...so if you are interested please read the above with Google Translate or something.

Even though 39 sounded like a lot, I actually didn't have much choice when trying to book!
Because many of them don't accept solo travelers. And then some don't like foreigners. And then some you can only make reservation by calling (My Japanese is not good enough for this!)....etc etc, you get the idea.

Thank heavens there were a few available on the usual places, Jalan, IKYU, even Booking.com!
Price and everything else seemed quite similar...I ended up booking Yakuo-in, not exactly a very scientific process I'm afraid, just feel like it? 🤣 Oh and they also provide an afternoon tea service (extra charge), that helped too!
 
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So I arrived at Yakuo-in a little before 2pm.
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Unlike every other place I've stayed in Japan, they didn't ask to check my ID let alone copying 🤣 Also seemed pretty relax about check in time, I was shown to my room immediately! - if you've been to Japan you know the 3pm check in time is an unmovable force 😉

And here's my room!
10 tatami Japanese style. Honestly it didn't look much different from a regular ryokan (at the lower end ofc)...

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All shared facilities though.
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There's a shower available 24H.
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Very important shower because the bath was on a reservation system, 30 mins only for each room.
That's how I knew there were only 3 groups that day. (those were names of the guest rooms written down there)
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This is the bath. Not onsen.
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I'm curious how the thing works for people traveling together but you know, not comfortable being naked together? Do they each get 15 mins or something 🤣
 
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It was still early so I went to Zenkoji.

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They have some pretty fancy Shuins!
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I got the simple version 🤣
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These were all Shukubos.
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Starbucks rarely miss a trick in Japan!
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Very impressive looking building!
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Obviously Shukubos serve Shojin Ryori 精進料理.
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There was no menu so your guess is as good as mine ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The hot pot was to be pour onto the soba. Rice and miso soup were self served.

This I know, vegetable tempura! with wasabi salt.
Pepper, pumpkin, sweet potato, eggplant, iirc?
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Okay I must confess, I don't mind a vegetarian meal or two, but this was not filling, at all...even for me. If you are a man with normal-ish appetite, well there was a 711 not that far away, don't ask how I know 🤣

Side note, I've seen people recommend shojin ryori to vegetarians going to Japan. While technically correct, don't count on it. Shojin ryori is not something you can get at any random place. I have never seen it outside of a temple setting and very few temples offer it.
 
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Another big thing staying in a Shukubo is to attend the Morning Service of Zenkoji, called Oasaji
It is held all year round at the time of the sunrise.

Previous day during check in the lady asked me if I wanted to join the Japanese group or English group (we did the check-in in Japanese) 😂 well thank you very much but you have more faith in my language abilities than myself!

As it turned out the other guests of the night was one Japanese lady and a group of 4 foreigners (I didn't find out where they came from till later).
So the five of us gathered at the entrance of Yakuo-in at 5:20am sharp to greet our volunteer guide (forgot his name!).

We were told a bit of the history of Zenkoji and then led to the blessing ceremony. Basically you line up, kneel down and lower your head. Then you would receive Buddhist rosary on your head by the chief priest or priestess. This ceremony happens twice a day before and after the morning service - when the chief priest /priestess is on the way to and from the morning service.

Here's the chief priest under the red umbrella. I had just received the blessing.
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Then we walked into the inner chamber of the main hall where it's the closest to the main altar. Anyone can come and attend the morning service. Only the inner chamber requires a ticket, 600 Yen I think.

The Buddhist statue is hidden inside the main altar but NEVER shown to anybody, as I understood.
Every 7 years a copy of it is shown to the public for a few weeks but not the real statue - all explained by our guide, one lady was particularly bothered by this and kept asking where's the real thing, our guide couldn't quite get the question and it was a big hoo ha 🤣

Photos not allowed so all below are from Zenkoji website.
This is the monks do the thing...mainly just chanting...
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Anyhow, after the morning service (about 30 mins) we were led to a underground passage - you are supposed to walk in complete darkness to search for the "key to paradise" which is attached to the wall right below the statue, touching it would bring salvation.
Yeah I do not recommend this 🤢 reason should be obvious!

This is the entrance to that underground thing
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As we emerged from darkness the whole thing was finished. Phew!

Note:
There are two Buddhist sects in charge of the running of Zenkoji including all the Shukubos.
Each has its own service running one after the other.
So depending on which one your shukubo belongs to, that's the service you will attend.

And here's a better picture of the Rosary blessing.
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Back to Yakuo-in for breakfast.
Lots of washing for not that much food 😂
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Our guide also joined us here. And this was when I found out where the others came from - they tried to tip him! Rightly refused, of course.
Oh how I wish Americans don't bring that sxx_ elsewhere.

* They were not native speakers so can't tell from the accent.
 
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Checked out of the shukubo, time to go...

Ah but I was up since 5am and it was approaching 9 already! Damn I needed a coffee!!
Remember the fancy looking Starbucks? 😜
I had a triple shot, don't judge....
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This one was so beautiful though! There are some unbelievably great looking Starbucks in Japan....if you've seen some of my previous TRs you would know....this one on Zenkoji Omotesando is also one of their flagship stores.
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A few years ago I stayed at Hoshinoya Karuizawa, I didn't like the hotel much but the surrounding area was very nice.

So this time I booked a cheaper hotel nearby 😜

BEB5 Karuizawa
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It had a nice vacation vibe...
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My room was on the 2nd floor.
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It was a loft!
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Unlike most of the Japanese hotels, mattresses are nice and soft.
Doona is also not the typical super warm type! Extra points for sure 😎
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The stairs doubled up as storage.
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Bathroom is still very Japanese which I like.
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No public bath here but guests can use the Tombo no Yu near Hoshinoya at a reduced price of 600 Yen. I have been to that bath so didn't go this time.
 
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The Hoshino Area was near Naka Karuizawa station - whole area was developed by Hoshino Group.
BEB5 was at the lower left.
There's also Hoshinoya (top right) which is high end, Bleston Court mid range.
Two churches (more on them later) and a number of shops & restaurants, and Tombo no yu the bath.
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Went out for a walk, also searching for dinner...
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Settled on Sonmin Shokudo.
Shinshu beef Hitsumabushi! Wonder why I had ordered mega meats for lunch and dinner this day? 😂
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The nearby ice rink was a pond in May, obviously...
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Harunire terrace.
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Morning!
The coffee was terrible, do not recommend...

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After breakfast I went out to see the two churches.

Stone Church first, errr, was told there's a wedding booked, so we were only allowed to peek a little from a distance before 10am opening time.
Ah but I had a 45mm (M43 so 90mm equivalent) lens 😜😜

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Next up Highland Church.
And you know what, another wedding! Bah, May must be the busy season....
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But it was still before 10am so I was allowed in the small chapel next door.
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Pictures on the left were all the weddings taken place here previously...
 
Not far from the hotel there's a bus stop going back to Karuizawa.
Was very infrequent though...I took the 11.25 one.
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Another early lunch in Karuizawa.
Yes I knew seafood is not local cuisine, at all...but I really didn't want to have soba or fried chicken again!
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From Karuizawa to Kusatsu there's a regular bus, takes about 1.5 hours and cost around 2200 Yen iirc...
But the hotel I booked in Kusatsu (together with 2 others of the same group) runs a shuttle bus once per day to pick up guests in Karuizawa. They certainly brought a whole new meaning to "shuttle bus" (Nakanoyu as well!)
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La Vista Kusatsu Hills
Belongs to the same group that runs Dormy Inn / Onyado Nono, etc.

La Vista is another brand of theirs, more of a western style lodging compared to their other ryokans such as Kikuya. @RooFlyer is just in another La Vista 😎

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Lobby
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No matcha or wagshi here since it's western style. They do provide drinks and coffee.
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I booked the smallest room.
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It's called Hansel and Gretel, yeah they have a theme going 😂

From the door way, right side was toilet, bedroom on the left, straight ahead was bathroom.
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Maybe we don't need a picture of the toilet? But here it is anyways!
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Living area
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I especially liked the sink next to the tv, very handy if you just need some hot water for tea!

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View from balcony.
See the tall white building in the middle? That's the town centre of Kusatsu.
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