The Castle

[Pushka]

De Hallen

With two strikes against my name for the day, I needed De Hallen to deliver.

We’d not eaten since breakfast and it was now approaching 3pm.

The anticipation of a feast was the only thing sustaining us.

We continued our walk through the streets of Amsterdam, watching people on their canal cruises and generally taking in the vibe.

View attachment 353908

But the walking didn't last long as I was instructed to find a faster way to the food.

A short tram ride and we were at De Hallen which translates to The Hall.

I was relived to find it was not an abandoned warehouse, nor did it require the online purchase of tickets six weeks in advance.

View attachment 353909

Inside there were around 30 food stalls.

In the centre, communal tables and a bar.

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By Amsterdam standards, prices were reasonable – perhaps this was the appeal for the locals.

It was to my great relief that the food was good.

Either that or we were so hungry anything was going to taste good.

View attachment 353912

Miss H had corn on the cob which she said was delicious.

We also shared a tasting plate from the BBQ/Brazilian stall and serve of steamed buns from the Chinese section.

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True to form for this trip report, it was another case of eat first, take pictures later.

De Hallen also had a fancy patisserie with a wide range of desserts.

Miss H rounded out her meal with a toffee tart, while Mrs H and I both had a chocolate truffle.

If I’m honest, De Hallen is little more than a glorified food court.

But by food court standards the food was good – decent portion sizes, fresh and flavoursome.

Perhaps our judgement was impaired by being really hungry, or maybe it was the sugar high from the sweet treats, but somehow our third stop of the day was judged to be a win - just.

Yumm. On my list for next month. PS. I have my tickets for Anne Frank house already.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Mortimer

After a day of disappointment I needed to get back in the winner’s circle.

But my form was poor and my confidence rattled.

I took a different approach and suggested Mrs H plan the next day’s breakfast.

There were two possible outcomes:

1. She’d pick a winner and everyone would be happy.
2. She’d pick a dud and at least it wouldn’t be my fault.

After about half an hour of Mrs H scrolling on her phone she made her choice.

"TripAdvisor says it's the number one restaurant in Amsterdam."

“Gee that sounds cheap.” I said, not attempting to disguise the sarcasm.

“It’s actually not too bad.” Mrs H replied.

My eyes rolled so far back in my head they just about did a somersault.

I was afraid to look.

But surprisingly, prices were on par with other breakfast options and so the next mooring we headed to Mortimer.

The place is pretty small.

A dozen tables at most, set over two levels in a typically narrow Amsterdam building.

The tiny kitchen is crammed into the basement.

They don’t take reservations and we were fortunate to be seated almost immediately.

By the time we were done, there was a lengthy queue of people waiting.

The menu had all the regulars and nothing fancy, but wow, what a breakfast!



Mrs H and I both opted for Eggs Benedict with different sides:





Miss H selected the veggie breakfast with fried halloumi sealing the decision:



All beautifully cooked, well presented and delicious.

And most importantly, the coffee here was sensational.

We’d had several days of lousy coffee, so perhaps a decent caffeine hit influenced our judgement.

Whatever the case, efficient service, a cosy atmosphere, great food and excellent coffee makes Mortimer a five star recommendation for anyone visiting Amsterdam!

 

[Captain Halliday]

This is Holland

Well fed and satisfied we set off for our day’s activities.

First stop, a cheese shop.



It was one of dozens in the tourist district – many part of the same chain.

Both Mrs H and Miss H love their cheese, so with the day’s first stop it was like it’s struck gold.



As you’d expect, the place offered both free samples and funky flavours.

This one tasted nothing like any beer I’ve ever drunk.



There was also an assortment of items totally impractical for tourists in the European summer:



Our intended destination was on Amsterdam’s north shore.

To get there we had to pass under the impressive Amsterdam Central Station.



We also walked by one of many striking cathedrals.



Our morning destination was the tourist attraction This Is Holland.

It’s a full motion simulator providing what’s claimed as a 5D "flight” over all the major sights in the Netherlands.

After “checking in” we were directed to what turned out to be the door of disappointment:



There was no bar.

No buffet.

No food of any kind.

The attraction began with two short AV presentations with some of the Dutch history.

Both ran about five minutes.

The first, which explained Holland being mostly below sea level and the importance of the dykes and pumping stations was very informative.

From there it was onto the ride itself.

In addition to the full motion of flying, the attraction used other effects including mist and the scents of tulips giving a full sensory experience.

In the gift shop there’s also an interesting explanation of how some of the more difficult shots were achieved:





The water-skiing sequence was apparently one of the more difficult to shoot.

They certainly got some up-close shots!



This Is Holland is located on the ground floor of A’DAM Tower.

The lookout at the top was out next stop.

 

[Seat0B]

Your TR is reminding me of a couple of great visits I had to the Netherlands when Seat Son lived and worked at a UN body in Den Haag some years back. Feeling quite nostalgic.

 

[Captain Halliday]

A'DAM Tower

A'DAM Tower (right) is an unusually shaped building that dominates the Amsterdam skyline.

It's next door to the film and cinema museum (left).



A’DAM tower has all the things you’d expect from a tourist attraction disguised as a lookout.



Over-priced admission…

A section of glass-floor…



There’s sweeping views 360-degree views over Amsterdam.





The view includes the approach to AMS and the eagle-eyed will spot the KLM 747 on final.





Like any good tourist attraction there’s something for the thrill seekers.



There’s also plenty of confusing signage.



A’DAM also has a nightclub.

An expensive restaurant and a bar and lounge (also expensive).

But what’s expensive when you’re on holiday?

Besides, we were thirsty.



But A’DAM look out has one more view you might not expect.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Loo with a view and a view of the loo

A loo with a view is not totally unexpected in a tourist attraction like A’DAM.

The view from the relevant position in the men's was pretty good.



If you looked down, you could watch the tourists on the viewing deck below.



The only problem was someone forgot to order the one-way glass.

If you looked up from the viewing deck you could see a line of men, shoulder-to-shoulder all with similar look of relief on their face.

A cheeky wave and I suspect the look of relief might turn to one of horror.

In a city where almost anything goes, I shouldn’t have been surprised.

Gentlemen, you’ve been warned.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Say cheese

Mrs H was keen to do a canal cruise and with a fine day on the forecast that was top of the to-do list on day four.

We selected a 90-minute cruise with wine and cheese.

If you're picturing a cheese board with three or four cheeses, crackers, perhaps bread, some grapes and strawberries.

Then like me, you might have been a little underwhelmed.



They certainly couldn’t be accused of false advertising – there was a both wine and cheese.

To be fair, the wine flowed freely.

Our tour took in several canals and included commentary that explained the city’s history and points of interest like these million-dollar house boats.



It’s a tough life…



Not every houseboat we saw fit the stereotype.



Our guide told us of the trouble property owners have with their houses sinking.

The result, very few of the older buildings along the canal are straight.



We also learned that land tax in Amsterdam is charged based on the width of your street frontage.

Our guide claimed this narrow place is the Mayor's house (note the security camera).

We were told it opens up behind the two buildings either side to a wide and expansive house - a common approach of the wealthy and wise.



The cruise was lovely.

We were relaxed and enjoying the view when suddenly things took an unexpected and sinister turn.

I looked over my shoulder and saw we were being followed by a gangster.



We avoided trouble and continued enjoying the spring sunshine.



It was a pleasant afternoon watching the people we passed.



As our cruise came to an end I was reflecting on the very literal interpretation, "canal cruise with wine and cheese".

It left me wondering what these people signed up for.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Around Amsterdam (part 1)

With just two days remining in Amsterdam, careful planning was required because a heatwave was forecast.

Any walking or outdoor sightseeing really needed to be done in a single day.

Next morning was an early start and back into the CBD for a planned loop of the eastern parts of the city.

Leaving Central Station, we turned left and headed for Nemo – the national science museum.

Nemo is a striking building shaped like the bow of a ship.



The attractions are designed predominantly for primary school children, so we didn’t go in.

There is a ramp, seen on the right of the picture above, which leads to a viewing deck on the roof of the museum.

Access is free and it offers great views back into the city.



There’s terrace style seating and water features to keep children cool and occupied.

Views towards the East are of the Het Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum) and the city's public swimming area.



The maritime museum's main attraction is the replica tall ship “Amsterdam”.



Continuing our walking tour we stopped briefly to allow a motor yacht to pass.



On our canal cruise the day before we’d learned the history of the hooks on the front of all the Amsterdam buildings.



Once used for hoisting things like bags of spices and other goods traded by seafarers, these days they’re just used to get bulky furniture into the top floor apartments.



We also learned magnet fishing is popular with scavengers in Amsterdam.

The most recovered item from the canals is bicycles.

Not surprising when you see where they park them.



Our guide claimed there’s two shops that recondition these bicycles and sell them.

Apparently if you can prove a bike is yours, they’ll generously give you a 15% discount.

Sounds fishy to me.

 

[Seat0B]

Maybe you were expecting something more like this @Captain Halliday? We did a touristy but totally excellent cheese tasting with wine somewhere in Amsterdam in 2016, arranged by Seat Son, at Reypenaer. I think he just found it on Google. So good!

 

[jukebox333]

Say cheese


As our cruise came to an end I was reflecting on the very literal interpretation, "canal cruise with wine and cheese".

It left me wondering what these people signed up for.

View attachment 354395

I suspect they are grateful that the "c" hasn't faded...

 

[Captain Halliday]

Around Amsterdam (part 2)

Miss H was keen to see the Royal Palace, so we headed in that direction along Rokin, the major canal in Amsterdam.



In front of the palace is a large public square.

Here you instantly become the target of food vans, sellers of tacky souvenirs and pick pockets.

You’re a target for the pigeons too, but at least they’re not after your money.

The Royal Palace itself is impressive.



Also on the square you’ll find De Nieuew Kerk.

This translates to The New Church.

Built in the 15th century, you could argue it’s overdue a name change.

These days it’s home to a range of exhibitions.





Across the road is an impressive looking shopping centre.



Inside was just a handful of premium shops with price tags that made the pickpockets look like an attractive option.

Once again we were well past lunchtime and hadn't eaten.

Miss H wanted a burger, while Mrs H was overdue for her caffeine hit.

I suggested a coffee here…



...but was disappointed to learn I was the only one who found it amusing.

As we continued walking, we stopped looking at the city and started looking at menus.

 

[Captain Halliday]

The quest for a burger

A burger in one of Europe’s biggest cities.

Should be easy right?

Nope.

First, I refused to accept any venue that allowed smoking.

The prevalence of smoking in public areas across Europe, including where food is served, astounded me.

It felt like I was in Australia in the 1980's.

This ruled out almost 75% of the options.

From there we started what has become a Halliday holiday tradition.

It involves the family walking around looking at a dozen or more menus and then convening for a tense meeting.

The hungrier we are the more difficult it is to reach a decision.

This meeting usually has one of two outcomes:

The most frequent result is that we go back to the very first place we passed half an hour ago.

It’s like a cruel karma for daring to consider other venues.

The second possible outcome is total disagreement which results in us all deciding to eat in different places.

On this day, I tried to intervene by suggesting a sausage roll from the baine marie of the nearby supermarket while we considered other options.

But with Miss H determined to have a burger I was overruled, and we headed back to the first place we’d passed.

A place called "The Butcher", this turned out to be one in a chain of about six dotted around the city.

Here, Miss H decided she didn’t like the look of them menu, so on we walked.

This time Mrs H led the charge.

This was a bad sign.

You see, Mrs H generally adopts a position that a race caller might describe as "eight lengths back from the rear of the field".

So, when she’s half a block ahead of you, she’s ether furious, or in desperate need of the loo.

Today it was the former.

She picked a bistro and there was no negotiation.

Miss H selected her burger.

I didn’t like the look of the menu and decided to pass.

Mrs H then joined the hunger strike in protest.

So we sat in an awkward, tense silence waiting for this:



The lack of chips and the price tag of almost 30 Australian dollars vindicated my decision not to eat.

While Miss H was now full, Mrs H, my wallet and me were all empty.

But the tension was easing, so I bravely suggested Mrs H skip the coffee and we head across the river to one of the café’s overlooking the city and have a beer.

To my surprise, the plan was agreed.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Back to the butcher

After walking another dozen blocks, we were back on the cross-river ferry.



The first café, nearest to the ferry terminal, was booked out.

At the second, we were offered a table outside amid a thick plume of smoke – not all of it tobacco smoke!

Next option was a fine dining place that was attached to the museum of film.

It offered stunning views across the river… along with portion sizes inversely proportional to the price.

My head began to throb.

At first I thought it was an involuntary reaction to the prospect of a single oyster costing almost as much as the underwhelming burger Miss H had just eaten.

But I turned to see it was actually a car rally arriving at the museum’s front steps.





With the time approaching 5pm, the revving of the cars was matched only by the growling sounds coming from my empty stomach which last saw food at breakfast.

Option four was a bar and burger place.

Not just any burger place.

The Butcher.

Another outlet of the chain Miss H had earlier rejected.

Despite having the very same menu as the place across town, Miss H decided she was ready for seconds.

It might have been the fear that indecision would mean her next meal was days away.

Or that she very rarely passes up a schnitty.



Mrs H went for “The Butcher”.



While I selected “Silence of the Lamb” with sweet potato fries.



As a child, a burger was often accompanied by a milkshake.

So after a long hot day walking around Amsterdam, I added to my order a “Dripping Drunch” which the menu described as a boozy milkshake with Baileys, caramel and ice cream.



Yum.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Heatwave

Our final day in Amsterdam was when the heatwave struck.

By 9am it was already closing in on the day’s forecast maximum.

No only that, but the air quality had been deemed “insufficient”.



We gave serious consideration to staying in the air-conditioned hotel room all day.

But after asking a couple of locals their advice in previous days, we decided to brave the heat.

We took the local bus about 15 minutes to a place called Hoofdoorp Lake where we discovered most of Amsterdam had done the same.



We found a spot under a tree with good views of AMS departures.



In a climate where the days suitable for swimming are few – people were enjoying the sun.



Aside from the lack of surf and blue and white cabanas, this was so different to a day at an Australian beach.

I saw only three people wearing hats and just two with sun shirts on – both toddlers.

Hoofdoorp Lake has three separate swimming areas, though they’re all essentially the same.



One section has grass instead of sand and is next to a fancy lakeside restaurant.



After sweating it out for a few hours we left the lake and headed back to the hotel wondering what you'd find if you dived to the bottom.

 

[RooFlyer]

wondering what you'd find if you dived to the bottom.

 

[zig]

From there we started what has become a Halliday holiday tradition.

It involves the family walking around looking at a dozen or more menus and then convening for a tense meeting.

The hungrier we are the more difficult it is to reach a decision.

This meeting usually has one of two outcomes:

The most frequent result is that we go back to the very first place we passed half an hour ago.

It’s like a cruel karma for daring to consider other venues

This resembles my family holiday meal times as well...
One of the reasons I now enjoy solo travel

 

[Captain Halliday]

This resembles my family holiday meal times as well...
One of the reasons I now enjoy solo travel

I’m glad it’s not just us!

 

[Captain Halliday]

Antwerp

For our trip from Amsterdam to Brussels I’d booked flexible rail tickets that allowed us to stop along the way.

We took advantage of this with a half day in Antwerp.

We left our luggage at the station and set off on self guided walk through Antwerp Old Town.

First stop was the impressive Cathedral of Our Lady.



Then it was on to Antwerp City Hall which was packed with school groups studying an exhibition which tracks the evolution and development of the city.



Around the square it was clear that Belgians are fond of their gargoyles and rooftop sculptures.



Then it was on to Het Steen a medieval fortress on the banks of the Scheldt.



There's free access to a viewing terrace on the roof of the fortress which offers views up and down the river.



Outside Het Steen is the Lange Wapper statue.

Legend has it this giant terrorised townspeople and cheated local children in games.



Heading back towards the train station we passed this place and questioned just how fresh the "homemade" Australian waffles would be once flown to Antwerp.



We arrived back at the imposing Antwerp Central station in the early afternoon ready to continue on to Brussels.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Brussels

*This post contains adult themes. Reader discretion is recommended.*

Make no mistake, Europe is expensive.

Especially in the summer.

In Brussels we stayed at an Ibis for the bargain basement price of AUD 250per night.

To say it was cosy is being kind.



But as an elite member with Accor I was delighted to find my loyalty rewarded with this this generous welcome gift.



Our two days in Brussels included a visit to Choco-Story.



The museum details the history of chocolate as a product and how it came to be a prominent Belgian export.

Audio guides are included with the price of admission and the self-guided tour ends with a live praline making demonstration and tasting.

A must do for chocoholics.

Two blocks from Chocostory is the famous Manneken Pis fountain.



Right by the fountain is an unusual donut shop, selling donuts in many flavours, but just two shapes.







On the way back to the hotel we passed buildings with funky street art.



And the obligatory Ferris wheel that seems to be necessary in every city these days.



From there it was time to select a dinner venue.

Following her successful restaurant choice for breakfast in Amsterdam, this task fell to Mrs H.

And she picked another winner!

 

[Captain Halliday]

La Vigne

This restaurant was selected almost at random as we walked back to the hotel.

La Vigne is in a side street just two blocks from the Louise metro station.

In addition to a full a la carte menu, the restaurant has a woodfired grill on which the day’s special is cooked.

The girls kicked things off by sharing the Feuilletes farcis aux epinards & feta (Stuffed spinach pastries & feta).



Miss H then opted for the kids spag bol which she described as “the smallest portion ever”.



After several days without a vegetable in her life, we also insisted she order a side that included greens.

She chose the garlic butter with added vegetables.



Mrs H was keeping it simple, selecting the grilled salmon with bearnaise.



While I simply couldn’t pass up the grill.

Today’s offering: Cochon a la Broche – Suckling Pig on the spit served with gratin and mint bernaise.





To accompany this feast we asked our waiter to recommend a chardonnay.

This was his choice.





It was a nice meal and just what we needed as we prepared for another big day exploring Brussels.