The Ireland trip - with some detours.

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On to Belfast

This day made me realise that i had made a mistake in not allocating more time for the very north of Ireland. I think that the violence of most of the last 50 years has tainted my view of it. There are a number of very nice coastal towns, deep forests and lovely seaside drives. If I had my time again I would have allowed a couple of days around here.


The Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. The wind was so strong that it was closed. Not that this little black duck would set foot on it anyway.

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I've been over that bridge a few times OZDUCK and it would be a challenge in windy conditions especially if you're not partial to heights as it is quite deceiving until you're out in the middle. Love Belfast and Northern Ireland in general, now that things have settled down. My first visit in '92 was an absolute eye opener :D
 
I've been over that bridge a few times OZDUCK and it would be a challenge in windy conditions especially if you're not partial to heights as it is quite deceiving until you're out in the middle. Love Belfast and Northern Ireland in general, now that things have settled down. My first visit in '92 was an absolute eye opener :D

It could be the calmest day ever and I would not voluntarily cross over that bridge.

As I said in my posts I do really regret not allocating a few more days for Northern Island. I had expected to see some flat farming land with a few grey towns - absolutely wrong. I think the violent recent past influenced my views. Also, Eire has benefited by the USA/Irish link which has mythologised the south of the island. N.I. needs to get a better Advertising Company for their Tourist Bureau - perhaps Don Draper is free.
 
It could be the calmest day ever and I would not voluntarily cross over that bridge.

As I said in my posts I do really regret not allocating a few more days for Northern Island. I had expected to see some flat farming land with a few grey towns - absolutely wrong. I think the violent recent past influenced my views. Also, Eire has benefited by the USA/Irish link which has mythologised the south of the island. N.I. needs to get a better Advertising Company for their Tourist Bureau - perhaps Don Draper is free.


Northern Ireland is stunning! Especially the countryside around Armagh and Omagh.

And Belfast itself has some amazing history and restaurants. Derry is wonderful. Coast in county Antrim beautiful.
 
The Titanic Experience

An amazingly well thought out and laid out attraction. I had read all types of things about it being one of the premiere tourist attractions in the world and they are in fact pretty true. We chose to buy a ticket that covered all the attractions - the main Exhibition Building, The Pump Room and the Dry-dock. We spent over 5 hours doing the full tour and were never bored. It was pretty busy but if you held back a bit you could usually get time to see what you wanted as the bus & cruise ship tours were rushed through in maybe an hour.

It is a definite "must see". Once you have paid you catch a lift to the top of the building and slowly work your way down.

The main building - taken from where the slipways used to be, looking towards Belfast Centre. The old Harland & Wolff Drawing Offices are on the left. I was disappointed that we couldn't see inside them. They are being incorporated into a new luxury hotel - The Titanic Hotel Belfast which is due to open in September.

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The display is not just about the Titanic & its sinking. There is a very well crafted social history element included. It tells the story of the shipyards and the people of Belfast over several centuries. At one stage you get into a sort of suspended gondola and ride "through" a recreation of the heavy engineering part of the shipyard complete with noise and heat.

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There are recreations of cabins etc - complete with holographic figures telling there own story.

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More Titanic

Looking out over where the old slips used to be.

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The old pumps used to pump out the water in the dry-dock - they could pump out 23 million gallons of water in 100 minutes.

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The dry-dock. 259 metres long 29 metres wide and 13 metres deep. It could be extended by 11 metres by using a floating caisson. This was needed for the Olympic Class Liners - 269 metres long. The old Pump House is on the left - the museum inside was being renovated when we there.

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On the floor of the dry-dock. These are the original keel blocks from 1912.

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Looking towards the caisson - the cutout figures commemorate famous Belfast residents.

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The Pump House and Dry-Dock are about a 15 minutes walk from the main exhibition building. By visiting this site we have rounded out our Titanic knowledge - we went to the Shipping Museum in Halifax and saw relics from the sinking, toured Cobh (Queenstown) (the last port she visited) and now we have seen her construction site
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Moored between the Pump House and the main building is HMS Caroline a 1914 Light Cruiser that is the last warship afloat that fought at The Battle of Jutland in 1916. She served for many years as a headquarters and training ship for the Royal naval Reserve and has been much altered - her guns (replicas are now fitted) and some of her boilers were removed and her structure dramatically modified.

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SS Nomadic - the last remaining White Star vessel. She was launched in 1991 as tender to passengers and mail out to the Olympic & Titanic as they were to big to dock in Cherbourg Harbour. She also served as minesweeper & mine layer in two wars and ended her working life as a floating function centre on the Seine in Paris. She has now been partially restored.

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Passengers using this tender were again segregated according to their class of travel. Many of the design elements on this vessel were copied from the liners.


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I was fascinated by the strange "boat" in front of the Nomadic. It is actually the floating caisson gate built in 1867 for this drydock

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Northern Ireland is stunning! Especially the countryside around Armagh and Omagh.

And Belfast itself has some amazing history and restaurants. Derry is wonderful. Coast in county Antrim beautiful.

Completely agree - I didn't see as much of it as I wished I had, including Armagh & Omagh - but it seems like a real hidden gem - to me at least. I can't honestly remember ever seeing glossy photos of anything but the Giants Causeway and the rope bridge in magazines or travel stories.
 
A few more photos

It cost 35 Pounds for the two of us (Seniors over 60 rate) for the Titanic Experience



The makers mark still proudly displayed on the side of the floating caisson gate after 150 years.

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The depth markings in the drydock. The "doorway" to the left was actually what they used to flood the drydock.

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The next day we drove to Dublin to spend a night near the airport before our flight out the next day. On the way we stopped at The Battle of Boyne Historic Site - and got a last chance to use our Irish Heritage cards. As I have said elsewhere this is more of a symbolic site built after the Good Friday Agreement for Northern Ireland. There is much "propaganda" about the peace settlement - and so there should be. Everything built there is top rate and the toilets could have come out of a 5 star Hotel.

The 18th Century Oldbridge House built on the battlefield displays much of the exhibition. The battle was in 1690.

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The grounds

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Once again there was an excellent cafe at the site. We ended up sharing a table with a couple from Adelaide who were on a bus tour. All of us were amused and slightly puzzled by
the addition of potato chips/crisps to our lunch plates. I think that they are used to catering for American visitors.


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As we were walking around the very pretty grounds the wind began to roar, a big black cloud came up and it started to pour. That finally broke our patience with Irish weather. We basically gave up on any more site seeing and drove to our B & B.
 
Last night

We stopped at a B & B about 10 minutes from Dublin Airport - 45 minutes in peak hour. We were leaving before breakfast time so she gave us some yogurt and muesli bars which kept us going until we got to the J lounge. It was near Malahide, and we went there for our final meal in Ireland - Greek. And, don't worry it poured with rain as we were walking around town.

It was a very nice little seaside town


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Both my son and daughter were in the Sea Scouts - their buildings were not much like this!


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The way home.

We dropped our car off a bit early at Hertz because I was somewhat worried about the damage. As I said earlier, the process was very easy just had to write down what happened and pay the bill for the rental - not prepaid. We were then dropped at the terminal. The J lounge Finnair (Executive Lounge) shares is a bit stark, but the breakfast items were fine and the overworked staff really nice. The 2 or 3 staff have to look after the front desk, bring out the food and clean the toilets - hopefully in that order.

Because we were early we had to hang around for the Check-In to open. While we were doing so a tour group of about 40 Mainland Chinese turned up and jumped the queue. They caused massive confusion trying to check-in as a group with passports all over the place. There was no sign for a Business Class counter but a staff member was sitting nearby under an electronic sign for another airline and doing nothing. I went over to him and asked him about a J Check-In. He was it but his "sign was broken". Simply writing a basic sign on a bit of cardboard or actually making an announcement was apparently too much of an effort.

Further, when we left the J lounge to go to the departure gate there was no plane in sight and it was actually an hour late arriving - with no announcements, or changes to the departures screen, being made until it finally arrived. The late departure from Helsinki would have already been known when we checked-in and we could easily have been warned.

Finnair was adequate. Their planes appear clean and well kept but we had 4 flights with them and one was cancelled and another an hour late on a 3 hour flight. Their staff are polite but pretty impersonal. I preferred the Chinese contract staff on the Helsinki - Singapore flight to the "Finnish" employees in Europe. On our flight from Dublin to Helsinki my finished meal tray was left on my table for close to an hour until they had completed their most important task - selling duty free to the Y passengers. On the whole I would happily fly with them if they offer, basically, 1/2 prices fares again but would not pay a "full" Business Class fare for them.

As we took off the Irish Weather Gods had their final joke at our expense - sunny with scattered white clouds. Something we had rarely seen for the last 21 days.

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Business class meal - Meatballs and mashed potato. Looking on FlyerTalk this seems to a normal lunch. As the Finns on there describe it - IKEA Cafe food. But at least it kept me occupied.

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Leg room shot -basic economy seat. But better than the Air NZ 787. On the previous flight I had sat in the bulkhead row and was very cramped. This time I swapped with my wife - who also complained about being cramped - she is about 1.7m (5ft 7") to my 1.91m (6ft 3"). Both of us agreed that the ability to stick your feet under the seat in front was more desirable.

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Nearer Finland the clouds cleared and we again had good views of the Finnish Archipelago - where Pushka said her husband did some kayaking in her current "Russian Around The Baltic" trip report.

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Sunshine in Helsinki

We arrived in Helsinki with about an 8 hour stopover and decided to go into the city. The Finnair Non-Schengen J Lounge has free lockers to store your cabin luggage. We placed ours there and headed to the train station. My wife confused the Immigration Officer as when he asked her what her destination was she said Singapore, - before realising what he meant.

The weather this day was lovely sunshine with a few scattered clouds, little wind and about 18C

Murals inside the Airport Railway Station.

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On our previous visit this central park was gloomy with bare branched tree and few pedestrians. It was like being in a different city

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The water was sparkling and reflecting the blue skies. .

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The people at this bar were sitting looking at that scene. If we had more than a few hours I would have loved to join them.

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A good surprise in Helsinki

As we were walking around we keep asking each other why there were so many people around compared to our last visit. Then suddenly there were low level passes by a Finnair A350 and various other planes. We walked to the old harbour to see what was going on. It turned out that we had arrived in Helsinki on the day that they were putting on an airshow to celebrate their 100th Anniversary of Freedom. They had rebelled and broken away from Russia after the 1917 October revolution.

The old harbour was full of people and they were all enjoying themselves.

Swimming in a floating pool on the harbour. It always seems that in these northern countries, once the temperature gets above about 15 C they treat it like a 30 C day here. Note the icebreaker in the background, moored across one of the channels.

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Then, all of a sudden the RAF Red Arrows appeared and put on a great display.

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More air-show

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After the Red Arrows had finished an RAF Typhoon came and did a very noisy and impressive routine. I have never seen canard fighter before and it was surprisingly nimble. But also very hard to capture with a camera so my apologies for these efforts.

Afterburners glowing

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We went back to the airport hoping for some nice food at the Finnair Lounge having only eaten some filled bagels in town. Silly us. All they had were a couple of bad looking stews, a doubtful soup, a few biscuits and tired cheese and wilted salads. It was obvious that they had not restocked after the departure of earlier flights. Anyway the seats were comfortable and the shower rooms nice.

For the Kids

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We eventually boarded our plane a few minutes late.

Just after midnight

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Just after take-off

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The in-flight airshow is pretty impressive.

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The seats are pretty comfortable and very similar to the CX ones. However they are a bit tighter all round - especially where I put my clodhoppers.

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Hi OZDUCK I am really enjoying your trip report especially as I am doing a road trip of Ireland in September. We are planning on picking up our car in Dublin at about 1pm and our first nights accommodation will be in Kilkenny. Do you think it is worth making a stop at Glendalough on our way?

It is absolutely worth visiting Glendalough. It was the first focus of my most recent trip.
 
In the air

As I said in a previous post the seats were good - even if a bit tighter than some. My wife thought that the seat cushion was harder - or less thick than other ones. Also, my wife had read an article a few days before we flew saying that Finnair were not happy with the build quality of their Zodiac seats and many would need replacement - https://www.ausbt.com.au/finnair-joins-cathay-pacific-in-airbus-a350-seat-swap. The back of my seat wobbled in certain positions and the tray table got stuck at least 3 times and once I needed the help of the FA to stow it.

The entire J cabin crew were ethnic Chinese and I heard one of them telling a passenger that they were all contract staff. They were very pleasant and interacted far better than the CX FAs I had on 4 flights last year. They didn't hide in the galleys but patrolled the aisles during the night and bought around drinks & snacks for those awake. I remember the toilets on the ANZ 787 being small but the A350 seemed tiny and I could barely turn around in it.

Because this flight is a "midnight flight" the meal is a "special" one served on a single tray. The amount of food was very small & uninspiring compared to the meals we had on Qatar on the northbound trip.

I had pre-ordered the Reindeer which was tasty and not at all tough, it was "overcooked reindeer entrecote, barley risotto, porcini, roasted artichoke and thyme sauce." As you can see the salad was obviously designed by a celebrity chef like Neil Perrry - as who but an expert could come up with such a boring and bland salad as this. The only desert was a small ice cream in a cardboard tub.

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Breakfast was again served on a single tray - and was tasty

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On thing that Finnair must be commended on is their IFE Monitor. This is the best one I have come across. The display was crystal clear and the touch screen very responsive. The tail and belly cameras were very good and made for great viewing on takeoff and landing. We didn't bother trying to use the free WiFi.

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Dawn over Russia

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Singapore

Singapore has been done so many times that I will just put in few photos.

We went up to Changi Village to have some food and a bit of a walk. The northern parts of the East Coast Park is a great area for plane-spotters.

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The Light show at The Gardens by the Bay is fun.

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Last flight home - take-off from Singapore on SQ in economy.

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Final thoughts

We enjoyed Ireland. However, and it could be the persistently poor weather getting me down, it was not our favourite holiday destination. The narrow and winding roads meant that most trips took longer than expected and caused me stress.

I do have to admit that one of my pre-conceptions was completely wrong. I think that I have watched too many episodes of Father Ted and seen too many Bing Crosby movies as a youngster. I expected Priests and Nuns to be everywhere. In fact, in 21 days I saw only one Priest and saw no-one that I could identify as a Nun.

The people of Ireland are, on the whole, as friendly in reality as in legend. All the B&B's we stayed at were good. However, we did miss not having some self-catering facilities on occasion.

Northern Ireland was bit of a revelation. Far nicer than I thought it would be - and the people we met were all friendly.

Helsinki was pleasant enough but I wouldn't consider it to be a holiday destination in itself for more than a couple of days. As a transit point it is good.

Tallinn was excellent.

Finnair was value for money for what we paid. Singapore - Dublin return for $2,700 in J was a good price. The A350 was very nice. The A320/321's were clean and fresh but I would never pay for "Euro-Business" seats on a separate ticket. The flight problems we had, and some of the service deficiencies we encountered, were not the signs of a top airline. However, I never felt unsafe with them, so that is a definite positive.

The unexpected trips on Qatar really were excellent.

The SQ flight from Sin - Per in Y was the worst one we have had with them. The plane was packed, worn, rattly and really in need of a refresh. We also had a very unpleasant and grumpy FA.
 
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