TomCat's Suite Adventure

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So after a hearty breakfast we braved the scrum that is the FCO rental car desks and received the keys to our chariot for the week. tixhr1682261991.jpg

The autostada awaited.

Or not...
 
So we punched Orvieto into the GPS app on the phone and hit the road, one misdirect later we were on a B road heading north. I was wondering where the autostrada was, apparently the app decided to send us the long way :oops:

It was about then that I realized that the car had a decent GPS of its own. We would be sticking with that from then on.
 
Orvieto. A small Umbrian town set upon a hill. We parked at the bottom and caught the funicular up the hill. You can then walk the rest of the way up, or cheekily hop on a bus as we did.
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We had a little wander then found somewhere for some lunch and a glass of wine.
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The views from up top are spectacular.
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After lunch it was back into the car for the last leg to Montepulciano. The drive was relatively easy, finding the designated parking lot, not so much. Fortunately our Airbnb host arrived in the car park minutes after us and soon had us in town and looking around the apartment.
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Our host gave us a great run down on where to eat and drink in town, other towns to visit, and even a bottle of wine to start us off.
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Our view
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We had time to sneak in some wine tasting and started with Redi, with their historical cellars underneath the city.
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For dinner we went to Osterio del Borgo, which has lovely views across the valley. We enjoyed some bruschetta, while I had beef cheeks and TomVexille had the pork.
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The view from next to the restaurants terrace

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And the wineries in town seem to enjoy showing off their cellars. Here are some of the larger vats at Talosa.

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Day two, we had a quick standing breakfast at the local bar.
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Then headed out to nearby Pienza for a few hours. This is another highly recommended Tuscan town and worth a visit. As with many of these towns, you can't drive into them unless you are a resident so we parked in a lot and walked in.
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A cheeky morning gelato
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The town is know for its Pici (spaghetti-like pasta) and pecorino cheese, so it seemed sensible to have both for lunch, with a half litre of house red as well.
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I'm staring to get used to the weird looks from the locals when I order an espresso. It's a bit of "are you sure??"
 
After lunch we went back to Montepulciano to wander the rest of town and do a little more wine tasting (and clamber down a million steps into those massive cellars).
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For dinner we chose Osteria del Conte, which is recommended for its house made pasta. It has old Italian bistro charm, and the nonna who makes the food comes around to make sure you are enjoying it.
We drank a bottle of Rosso di Montepulciano (a great food wine).
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Kicked off with a fresh Caprese salad
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Ravioli with a pecorino sauce, finished off with the best tiramisu I've ever eaten.
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Yummy pasta :D

I loved that the Nonna making the pasta would occasionally wander around the restaurant making sure that everyone was enjoying their meal.
 
Great photos!
We spent a week in Montepulciano using it as a base, ahh such great memories.
Such great food and wine towns in that area. We did an excellent wine tour from the tourist information centre.
And those underground cellars are amazing.
Tom, my husband is an expresso drinker and almost overdosed in Italy.
 
I call all champagne bubbles. No dis. And I ain't no sir.

I have only just exercised my legendary attention to detail to note that there are two people posting here! My apologies.

All champagne may be bubbles but not all bubbles are champagne (would that it be so, though)
 
I have just eaten lunch...It was pasta, pecorino and Italian red.... and now my stomach is rumbling again. Loving the TR
 
How did I miss this TR all these while? Looks like a superb trip so far, thanks for sharing your experience. Can't wait to hear more when we catch up next.:D
 
From Montepulciano it was time to head to Corniglia. One hiccup: we'd been advised that a land slip had closed the road in from La Spezia. So the options were to catch the train, or loop around from the north. We (maybe stupidly) decided to drive.

We headed towards San Gimignano where my sister had insisted we stop for 'the best gelato in the world'. I joked that perhaps the shop had a sign stating such above the door, otherwise how would you know which gelato shop it was. Joke was on me.
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It's another lovely town and while we had a quick look around, we didn't explore all of it as we had a difficult drive ahead of us.
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All I can say about the drive down into Corniglia is that it isn't something I'd want to do again in a hurry. It's a narrow windy road, with no room for more than one car in most spots. You crawl around bends hoping someone isn't coming flying the other way, and occasionally have to reverse to a rare wider spot so you can let someone else squeeze past you. Even worse if it happens to be a truck or mini van. The last part of the drive took an hour from the highway to town.

Fortunately when we arrived we were able to nab a loading spot in the square while we waited for our Airbnb host (actually her English speaking friend), who showed us to the apartment, then sent TomVexille off to park in their private covered car park. The apartment was small but immaculate, much better than it had looked online. And with a fantastic view and a rooftop terrace.
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It was late afternoon by the time we arrived, so we took a little wander around town, then headed down a lot of steps to the Marina for a quick swim. Both of us scored a few scrapes and cuts tying to get back out of the water. :eek:
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For dinner there aren't a lot of options in Corniglia as its a very small town. There were two that reviewed well online; the first was fully booked so we settled on the second. Enoteca il Pirun. We started with some surprisingly good smoked swordfish.
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Accompanied by local house white.
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And followed up with a pasta each; I had the salmon.
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Then we retreated to our roof top terrace to enjoy a glass of red and watch the sunset (or what was left of it).
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We headed towards San Gimignano where my sister had insisted we stop for 'the best gelato in the world'. I joked that perhaps the shop had a sign stating such above the door, otherwise how would you know which gelato shop it was. Joke was on me.
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We've been there just a couple of months ago and it was indeed the best ice cream we had in Italy and, by extension, the world.

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Great TR btw, brings back memories...
 
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