Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaijan

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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Great trip report. Reading with great interest. The photos are amazing!
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Really enjoying this star.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Really interesting TR once again RooFlyer!
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

LH pic is the synagogue, built in 1910. The naz_s didn't make it as far as Georgia (my tour guide quipped that the Russians were good for something ;) ) so there is still a large Jwish population in Tbilisi - hence the strong Israeli tourist input. RH pic is the mosque - where both sects get along perfectly well.

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The old Georgian parliament - built in typical Russian style. the last president moved Parliament to new digs in the city of Kutaisi, in the west, so its now a meeting place. The hammer and sickle has been scrubbed off the front pediment, but flanking Soviet symbols remain.

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Views from my Hotel at night. The Tifilis Palace has a great rooftop bar area.

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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

If you thought that wine cellar in Tbilisi was good, save your superlatives for the Pheasant's Tears in Sighnaghi. Make sure your guide books you for a wine tasting dinner there, and maybe even a tour of the vineyard. You won't regret it.
 
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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Cool report and great pictures - definitely enticing me to add it to my next list of places to visit :)
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

If you thought that wine cellar in Tbilisi was good, save your superlatives for the Pheasant's Tears in Sighnaghi. Make sure your guide books you for a wine tasting dinner there, and maybe even a tour of the vineyard. You won't regret it.


Alas! Was due to have dinner and wine tasting there tomorrow night (this TR is falling behind reality)- but booked out for a function :evil: Wine tasting only. (Have 4 winery visits and tastings scheduled over a couple of days in the area, though :) . )

I actually met the daughter of the winemaker who was serving at a restaurant I went to here in Tbilisi.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

The next few stanzas will be taken from just walking about Tbilisi, particularly the old town.

View from my hotel in the morning (sorry, they are in wrong order!)

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Freedom (or liberty) Square, with St George and the Dragon in their customary tussle, covered in real gold. The Marriott Courtyard faces this square, on my right out of view. Yes, the weather did change a bit - cloudy on day 1 gorgeous blue skies on day 2.

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The 'old town' isn't that old, relatively speaking. It was razed in the 1700s after invasion by somebody-or-other and other than the churches, not many of the buildings are older than ~1800. Yet away from the main drag and a few shopping streets, the buildings are in an awful condition - paint has long peeled, the plaster has fallen off and now the brickwork is crumbling, or often, irrevocably cracked right through the wall. Very sad - you can tell there was an elegance once - many balconies with (long rusted) iron lacework balconies etc.

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LH pic is taken from outside the old Parliament - commemorating the dozen or so people shot by Russian Soldiers in a pre independence protest. RH pic is from the large area of streets given over to street dining - this in the morning, so no-one's about, but its heaving during the evening.

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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

I mentioned how clean the streets were - answer is the guy on the left and so many more of them. On the right - I thought these were salamis at first, but later found that they were churchkhela. A string of walnuts is dipped in grape juice that has been boiled and thickened, with some flour and colouring added. Its called 'Georgian Snickers' - satisfies you on-the-go. Very nice, and they are good for snacking on the fly. Walnuts are huge in Georgia - almost every dish contains them in one form or another.

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Now some city sculpture - I don't know anything about them, sorry.


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These gals look like they are having fun:

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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Well written TR as usual, enjoying the photos.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

The Presidential Palace was built as a residence for the last President Mikheil Saakashvili. Now not used due to huge cost of upkeep alone and plans are to use it for some sort of children's home. That President seems a complex fellow - came in with great popular appeal and started modernising the country, with lots of road building (badly needed) and like projects. he was very pro west and tried to take Georgia in to the EU. However his star faded as he got a bit full of himself (witness the Presidential palace!) and left in some bad odour.

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To the left, the Ministry of Justice, another legacy of Saakashvili. RH - the renovation of the Fine Arts Museum.

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LH pic - the Seminary where Stalin trained early on. We'll hear more of Joseph Stalin - a Georgia boy made good - later. RH pic - another memorial to Georgians killed by Russian soldiers in their capital.

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The metro is pretty good. Two lines, very extensive, but like their Russian counterparts the stations are far apart and definitely for commuters, not for tourists seeing the sights. Built 1965 and very much a Soviet creation, especially the depth of the stations and long escalators. Trains run regularly. You pay 2 laris (about $1) for a plastic card then load cash onto it. One journey costs either 0.5 or 1 lari, I can't remember, with card tapping gates at entrances. Lots of English sohns in the stations - you can't get lost. Announcements on board about next stop are in Georgian and English.

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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Shota Rusteveli was a 12th century Georgian poet and one of its greatest literary figures and lends his name to the main drag through down town. For the most part, its a pleasant tree lined avenue with nice buildings and lots of shoppers and tourists (plus cars screaming up and down it). It starts in Freedom Square (see previously), runs past the old Parliament building and the National Museum, and ends at the zoo and Heros Monument.

LH pic is a random one of the street scape; RH is the 1896 Opera theatre

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About half way up is Prospero's Bookshop, with a nice selection of English titles concerning Georgia and its history. Added benefit is the great coffee shop next door and in the courtyard :) .

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The Stalinist Academy of Science building left, and Hero's Square, right (or at least what can be seen from the fly-over road). The monument is to 4,000 Georgian military who died in fighting against the Soviets in 1921 & 1924, and those that died during military actions against Russia in Abkhazia in 1992-1993 and in the ‘five-day war’ in South Ossetia in August 2008. Tbilisi zoo is here as well and some may remember severe flooding in Tbilisi earlier this year which allowed many zoo animals - bears, alligators, tigers etc to escape and start roaming. The lowland area is relatively small; much of the space is occupied by road fly-overs.

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A substantial building on the street, left and one of my pit stops, right.


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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Another very interesting TR.Yet another place to add to the bucket list.Darn bucket is never going to empty.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Before the next lot of pictures, a bit of history about Georgia.

In south-east Georgia have been found the oldest human remains outside Africa - 1.8 mill years old. Plenty of examples of Neolithic settlements ~6,000 BC.

It gets interesting by the 2nd millennium BC where barrow burial site have yielded a treasury of golden artefacts such as these (see more in the post on National Museum, following.)

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Remember the ancient Greek legend of Jason and the Argonauts? Well it 'happened' right here in Georgia, in the east at or near Kutaisi, which we'll visit in a few days time. Capturing gold using a sheep's fleece is or was actually practiced in the mountains in Georgia in ancient times.

The Kingdom of Colchis emerged in the west in ~600 -100BC and is regarded as proto-Georgia. The ancient Greeks traded with the Colchians and the Persians attacked a few times. The society had much to do with gold, as finds in burial mounds attest. These on display at the National Museum in Tbilisi (the rectangle is about 10cm long and the bottom LH bowl is about 20cm across)

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The eastern kingdom of Kartli (also known as Iberia - nothing to do with Spain) emerged about 300BC. Alexander the Great invaded the south of Iberia, but didn't hang around within Georgian territory.

The Romans invaded in 65BC and occupied the west but they were welcomed in the east. Both east and west gained reasonable independence by the 3rd century AD with paganism prevailing. St Nino converted the King of Iberia to Christianity in the early 300s, and so became the second state to become Christian (after Armenia).

The Persians invaded again in the 400s but a the end of the 500s Prince, then King Vakhtang Gorgasali liberated Iberia (we've seen him commemorated in Tbilisi). However this only lasted until his son's rule, when the Persian came back. In the late 600s the Arabs arrived.

In the 800s the Bagrationi family liberated parts of Iberia and Armenia. King Bagrat III united east and western provinces for the first time in about 1010. Unfortunately Bagrat had no more luck than Gorgasali, as in the late 10th century the Turks came along in a destructive and deadly invasion, with much Georgian culture and population lost.

David IV, son of the conquered Bargrati king, led an uprising in the late 1000s, eventually re-taking Tbilisi in 1122 after many great battles. David also became King of Armenia. He is known and revered in the country as 'David the Builder'

David's grand daughter Tamar became Queen in 1184 and continued fighting the Turks, eventually expelling them from the southern areas, including north and NE parts of Turkey, plus Armenia. The 12th to early 13th centuries is regarded as the Golden Age of Georgia, and Tamar was known as The Great, dying in 1213.

The Mongols invaded in the early 1200s and were an even more destructive force than the Turks. They lasted until King George the Brilliant (1314–1346) managed to expel them and take control of the country again.

in the 15th and 16th centuries, the country again fell under control of the Turks and Persians at various times, and the Christian enclave fractured. Much wealth was lost out of the country and it was a meagre 'state' that saw the start of the 18th century, dominated by the Persians.

King Erekle II managed to re-unify most of Georgia in the late 1700s as the Persian power waned. Erekle went to Russia to seek assistance against the Persians and effectively turned Georgia into a vassal state of Russia. This didn't entirely work out, as the Persians re-invaded in 1795 and captured and burned Tbilisi. The Russians re-asserted their authority in the early 1800s and annexed much of the area of Georgia. Eventually the country was re-established, but had completely lost its independence to Tsarist Russia.

A Georgian patriotic movement began in the late 1800s and a Georgian nationalist sentiment was well established by the time of the Bolshevik revolution in Russia in 1917. Georgia declared independence in 1918. However, following history, the Red Army invaded in 1921 and Georgia was incorporated into the USSR.

The Germans did not make it to the Caucasus in WW2 so the Jewish population was preserved, and flourishes to this day.

That's probably enough for now :). If you've made it this far, you can begin to see how Georgia claims to be one of the most invaded countries on earth - a true cross road of Asian, Turkish and Persian/Arabian armies.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Fabulous TR RooFlyer. Like what you've done with the pics, not to say the text. Somewhat lacking in wine though if I may add. :)
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Really enjoying this RooFlyer. I'm really a very unadventurous tourist and looking at this I need to get out more. Fabulous pictures and history.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Fabulous TR RooFlyer. Like what you've done with the pics, not to say the text. Somewhat lacking in wine though if I may add. :)

Yes, short of delivery on promise, I know :) . However the report is a few days behind reality and I've only just arrived in the wine growing east of the country where I'm learning about the wine, rather than just having some uneducated leaps into the dark! Stay tuned.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

Some more of the exquisite gold smithing from Colchis, in the west of the country 2-6th century BC

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The next two are from the 'Classical period', 1st century BC. An incense burner on the right.

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The other major exhibition I the National Museum is on the 'Russian Occupation'. As mentioned above, Georgia briefly had independence 1918-1921 when the Bolsheviks invaded, and after some years of organisation, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan became Soviet Socialist Republics within the USSR. Stalin came from Gori, west of Tbilisi and ruled ruthlessly, without sparing his homeland. Between 1942 and 1952, 5,000 Georgians were shot and 190,000 deported to the Gulags. In all, during the Soviet occupation of Georgia, it is estimated that 80,000 were shot and 400,000 deported; this doesn't include 400,000 war dead.

The RH pic is most poignant; its one of the carriages where anti-Soviet activists were shot in 1924.
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In the 1950s and 1960s the Georgian communist party was so corrupt it was an embarrassment even to Moscow. Georgian Eduard Shevardnadze, the USSR's interior minister between 1964 and 1972, rose to prominence in combatting the most blatant corruption in his homeland and he became Georgia's First minister, and later the USSR's Foreign Minister. Georgian nationalism re-emerged in the 1980s and 90s and several protests and uprisings were put down, as previous posts on Tbilisi showed.

Georgia became independent with the break-up of the USSR in 1991, and with many former USSR states, it was messy at first. Eduard Shevardnadze was the second President and he is blamed for effectively trading off the ethnic Russian dominated Abkhazia area in NW Georgia, and South Ossetia in central north Georgia to the Russians for some 'peace'. Abkhazia saw Russian forces come in in 1993 to support separatists and the same thing happened in South Ossetia, and during this brief conflict, Russia bombed several cities in Georgia, including Gori. Those two regions continue to be occupied by Russia, as the RH pic shows.

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Shevardnadze continued to be unpopular and corrupt. Eventually he was toppled in the peaceful 'Rose Revolution' which followed rigged 1993 elections. Mikheil Saakashvili became President and brought growth and modernisation plus a pro-west stance. He won 2 terms before being defeated by Giorgi Margvelashvili won the Georgian in 2013 with 62% of the votes cast.
 
Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

So enough of the history lesson already! :)

Second night in Tbilisi I went to Schuchmann's restaurant - I 'll be visiting their winery in the east, later. Like many establishments in the city, its set n an old wine cellar:

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The menu and wine list. A GEL (lari) is A$0.57 .The Schuchmanns do European as well as Georgian style wines.

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The first wine was an 'amber' - a Rhkatsiteli, made in a dry style. I found it earthy and cloying, somewhat like a chardonnay that's past its best. This, like much Georgian wine is made in the traditional qvevri style - a large earthen pot is filled with the grape juice, together with skins and stalks. Contact with the skins gives the wine the amber colour. The qvevri is covered and placed in the ground, where fermentation takes place for < year (from what I've been told so far), then its placed in bottles and the qvevri re-used. Rhkatsiteli is one of the main Georgian white cultivars, but there are many varieties, so I'm going to keep trying. I also had a saparevi red, also in dry style, which was, to my palate, also a bit earthy, but became somewhat lighter with exposure. Much more focus on wines to come.

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For the food, I had a Georgian salad to start - typically, lots of ripe tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplant, with walnuts crushed and as a dressing. Mains I had Chakapuli Schuchmann , chakapuli being sautéed veal (or lamb) with onions and tarragon. The 'special sauce' in this case being green plums, also with tarragon, and the base was mashed potatoes and the whole lot was delicious.

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Re: Uncorking the Caucasus. EY F Apartment to Georgia (birthplace of wine) & Azerbaij

This TR just keeps getting better -I'm really enjoying it, thanks, RooFlyer
 
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