I've heard mixed reviews for the Known Pleasure Shiraz 2017, so I figured best to try it myself.
Note, this had just been delivered and I suspect some bottle shock may be involved.
My immediate reaction upon opening was dismay as there was a heavily reductive nose, to the point of being unpleasant. I suspected heat shock, or contamination as the pumpkin, cardboardy mecaptin nose was dominant, however, there was also a very clear fruit depth in the background. No floral aromatics to speak of, but we are talking McLaren Vale so that's to be expected I guess.
The palate was also a bit stewy, which I can live with in an older wine, but not a 2017. That fruit though, dense, complex evolving across the palate, despite the bagginess. The first taste was less than enjoyable and I half expected to be pouring this one out. Almost tasted like a natural ferment, with a complex, not-quite-enjoyable earthy character that develops through the finish. A real bitter finish too, and not acidic, but something else that was not quite right for me.
However, over the course of 3 hours the oxygen completely transformed the wine. The reductive elements disappeared, the fruit tightened up and what shone through was a medium bodied, slightly too fruity, not quite stalky enough but nevertheless enjoyable wine. The length was superb, and the bitter finish became a refreshing characteristic; this is a wine that you can gulp down very easily.
I can't understand how JH gave this 98, except possibly for the promise of things to come, I think it will improve a hell of a lot with a few years in the bottle. I wouldn't buy it at $60, although in a few years that may seem short-sighted. I was happy to pay $30 and would do so again.
) of good red.
